Jakob Schubert Explained

Jakob Schubert
Nationality:	Austrian
Birth Date:	31 December 1990
Birth Place:	Innsbruck, Austria
Occupation:	Professional sport climber
Height:	176 cm
Weight:	63 kg
Updated:	August 9, 2024
Show-Medals:	yes

Jakob Schubert (born December 31, 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing (lead and boulder), sport climbing, and bouldering. He is a four-time World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021, 2023) and three-time World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in lead climbing. He is a two-time Olympic bronze medalist in the combined event (2020 and 2024).

As of 2023, Schubert had won the most men's IFSC gold medals of any male competition climber in history.

In addition to competition climbing, Schubert is the only climber in the world to have redpointed a graded sport climbing route and climbed a graded bouldering problem.

Climbing career

Competition climbing

Schubert started competition climbing in 2003 when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he regularly participates in World Cup competitions for lead climbing. For seven World Cup seasons out of ten, from 2007 to 2016, he also competed in bouldering.

In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in Arco.^[1] The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six).^[2]

In 2012, he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Paris.^[3]

In 2014, he won the Lead World Cup for the second time.^[4]

In 2018, when he was 27 years old, he became World Champion again, in his own birthplace and hometown, Innsbruck. He earned the title by reaching in the final event the same score as Adam Ondra (36+), but a higher score in the semifinal, where he ranked second after Domen Škofic. A few days later, in the same competition, he also conquered the Combined title by ranking second in Speed, first in Bouldering, and second in Lead. In the same year, he was awarded his third World Cup.

Schubert's performance at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships qualified him for a place at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo,^[5] where he won the bronze medal in the combined event.^[6]

Schubert won the lead event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, becoming the oldest world champion in the sport.^[7] He followed that up by winning the combined event, which qualified him to compete in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.^[8]

He won a bronze medal in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.^[9]

Rock climbing

In 2023, Schubert became the only person in the world to have climbed the top grade in both bouldering and sport climbing.^[10]

Rankings

See also: Best IFSC results.

Climbing World Cup

Discipline	2007	2008	2009	2010	2011	2012	2013	2014	2015	2016	2017	2018
Lead	26	7	4	2	1	3	2	1	3	2	6	1
Bouldering			60	65	19	3	2	-	25	23	10	9
Speed	-	-	-	-	-	43	59	-	-	-	-	59
Combined	-	-	4	2	1	1	1	-	4	2	6	1

Climbing World Championships

Youth

Adult

Discipline	2009	2011	2012	2014	2016	2018	2019	2021	2023
Lead	26	2	1	5	2	1	3	1	1
Bouldering	-	-	-	-	-	10	2	27	12
Speed	-	-	-	-	-	110	59	-	-
Combined	-	-	-	-	-	1	2	-	1

Climbing European Championships

Discipline	2008	2010	2013	2015	2017
Lead	6	3	7	6	3
Bouldering	-	-	3	4	-
Speed	-	-	35	27	31

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup

Lead

Season	Category	Gold	Silver	Bronze	Total
2004	Youth B			1	1
2005	Youth B			1	1
2006	Youth A	3	1	1	5
Total		3	1	3	7

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead

Season	Gold	Silver	Bronze	Total
2008		1		1
2009	1		1	2
2010	1	2	1	4
2011	7	1	1	9
2012	1	3	1	5
2013	2	2	1	5
2014	2	1	2	5
2015		2	2	4
2016		2	3	5
2017	2		1	3
2018	2	3		5
2019			1	1
2020			1	1
2021	1			1
2023	1		1	2
2024	1			1
Total	21	17	16	54

Bouldering

Season	Gold	Silver	Bronze	Total
2011		1		1
2012	1		1	2
2013	1	1	1	3
2018			1	1
2019	1		1	2
2021			1	1
2024			1	1
Total	3	2	6	11

Number of medals in the Olympics

Combined

Summer Olympics	Gold	Silver	Bronze	Total
2020			1	1
2024			1	1
Total	0	0	2	2

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

• B.I.G. – Flatanger (Norway) – September 20, 2023 – First ascent and third-ever proposed at 9c.^[11]

• Perfecto Mundo – Margalef (ESP) – November 9, 2019 – Third ascent (first by Alexander Megos).^[11]

• The Flame - Austria (AUT) – 2023 – First ascent ^[12]

• Erebor – Arco (ITA) – 2022 – Repeat ascent of Stefano Ghisolfi's route.^[11]

• King Capella – Siurana (ESP) – 2021 – Third ascent of William Bosi's route.^[11]

• Neanderthal – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 28, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma.^[11]

• El Bon Combat – Cova de I'Ocell (ESP) – December 1, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma.^[11]

• Stoking the Fire – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 5, 2018 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2013).^[11]

• La Planta da Shiva – Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) – January 4, 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra.^[11]

• Fight or flight – Oliana – December 31, 2014 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2011).^{[11] [13]}

• Es Pontàs – Mallorca (ESP) – October, 2021 – Fourth ascent of Chris Sharma's 2006 route.

• Catxasa – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 9, 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma

• Seleccio Anal – Oliana (ESP) – January 8, 2017

• Pachamama – Oliana (ESP) – January 2, 2017 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2009)

• Joe Mama – Oliana (ESP) – December 27, 2016 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma

• Kangroo Limb – Flatanger (NOR) – May 29, 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra

• Companion of Change – Zillertal (AUT) – November 18, 2015 – First ascent

• Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – April 27, 2011 – Sixth ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2008)^[14]

• Kein Licht Kein Schatten – Ötztal () – November 8, 2016 – First ascent

• Kraftplatzl – Berglsteiner See (AUT) – October 15, 2016 – Second Ascent after David Lama

• Direct open your mind – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 3, 2013

• Fuck the System – Santa Linya (ESP)- January 2, 2013^[15]

• Analogica Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – January 2, 2013

• Seleccio Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 28, 2012

• Ciudad de Dios – Santa Linya (ESP) – December 24, 2012

• Martin Krpan – Misja Pec () – November 21, 2011^[16]

• Hades – Nassereith, Götterwand (AUT) – May 30, 2010 – First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008^[17]

• Underground – Massone, Arco (ITA) – March 30, 2010 – First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998

Onsighted routes

• Aitzol – Margalef (ESP) – April 23, 2011^[18]

9A (V17)

• Alphane – Chironico (CHE) – December 21, 2023 ^[19]

8C (V15)

• Sierra Madre – Zillertal (AUT) – November 20, 2018

8B+ (V14)

• Witness the fitness – Cova de Ocell (ESP) – January 13, 2019 – flashed ^[20]

• Hide and Sick – Maltatal (AUT) – March 25, 2018

• Off the Wagon - Val Bavona (CHE) January 10, 2020

See also

• List of grade milestones in rock climbing
• History of rock climbing
• Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals

Notes and References

1. Web site: Puigblanque re di Spagna, insieme a Eiter, Kim e Markovic. planetmountain.com. November 28, 2011. December 23, 2011.
2. Web site: Record 7 World Cup wins. https://archive.today/20120723170013/http://www.climbmagazine.com/news/2011/10/record-7th-world-cup-win. dead. July 23, 2012. climbmagazine.com. October 22, 2011. April 15, 2012.
3. Web site: Campionati del Mondo di arrampicata sportiva 2012, tutti i risultati da Parigi.. planetmountain.com. Franz Schiassi. September 18, 2012. September 18, 2012.
4. Web site: Jain Kim and Jakob Schubert win the Lead World Cup 2014 . 2022-09-04 . 2014-10-28 . PlanetMountain.com .
5. Web site: 19 August 2019 . Jakob Schubert and Alexander Megos qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo . 18 July 2021 . LACRUX Klettermagazin.
6. News: 2021-08-03 . Tokyo Olympics: Sport Climbing - Men's Combined results . 2024-08-09 . BBC Sport . en-GB.
7. Web site: LEAD RECORDS BROKEN BY MORI AND SCHUBERT IN BERN. August 6, 2023. August 13, 2023. en.
8. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championships 2023: Jakob Schubert adds combined boulder and lead title to lead gold in Bern. August 12, 2023. August 13, 2023. en.
9. Web site: Sport Climbing Men's Boulder & Lead. Individual Medals and Ranking . Paris Olympics 2024.
10. Web site: 2023-12-21 . NEWSFLASH: Alphane, 9A, for Jakob Schubert . 2024-08-09 . www.ukclimbing.com . en.
11. Web site: PlanetMountain . Jakob Schubert proposes 9c for B.I.G. at Flatanger. 28 September 2023 . 28 September 2023 .
12. https://www.instagram.com/jakob.schubert/p/C2aiGdIoRsc/
13. Web site: Jakob Schubert ripete Fight or Flight 9b a Oliana in Spagna. planetmountain.com. January 2, 2015. February 19, 2015.
14. Web site: Jakob Schubert e Gabriele Moroni scatenati. planetmountain.com. April 28, 2011. December 22, 2011.
15. Web site: Realizzazioni spagnole per Schubert e Midtboe. https://archive.today/20130412021039/http://www.up-climbing.com/it/news/falesia/realizzazioni-spagnole. dead. April 12, 2013. up-climbing.com. January 3, 2013. January 5, 2013.
16. Web site: 9a per Jakob Schubert. up-climbing.com. November 27, 2011. December 22, 2011. https://web.archive.org/web/20111226115953/http://www.up-climbing.com/it/news/falesia/9a-per-jakob-schubert. 2011-12-26. dead.
17. Web site: Jakob Schubert – 9a. up-climbing.com. June 2, 2010. December 22, 2011.
18. Web site: Jakob Schubert 8c onsight. up-climbing.com. April 25, 2011. December 22, 2011. https://web.archive.org/web/20160307185913/http://www.up-climbing.com/it/news/falesia/jakob-schubert-8c-onsight. 2016-03-07. dead.
19. Web site: Instagram . 2023-12-21 . www.instagram.com.
20. Web site: Jakob Schubert flashes 8B+ boulder Catalan Witness the Fitness. PlanetMountain.com. 13 January 2018 . 2019-03-29.