International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation explained

Assocname:International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation
Abbrev:UIAA
Logosize:240px
Sport:Mountaineering
Climbing
Jurisdiction:International
Headquarters:Bern, Switzerland
President:Peter Muir
Url:http://www.theuiaa.org/

The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation, commonly known by its French name Union internationale des associations d'alpinisme (UIAA; fra||International Union of [[List of alpine clubs|Alpine Clubs]]), was founded in August 1932 in Chamonix, France when 20 mountaineering associations met for an alpine congress. Count Charles Egmond d'Arcis, from Switzerland, was chosen as the first president and it was decided by the founding members that the UIAA would be an international federation which would be in charge of the "study and solution of all problems regarding mountaineering".[1] The UIAA Safety Label was created in 1960 and was internationally approved in 1965 and currently (2015) has a global presence on five continents with 86 member associations in 62 countries representing over 3 million people.[2]

After the 2022 Russian invasion of Ukraine, the UIAA suspended all UIAA officials from Russia, and delegates from the Russian Mountaineering Federation (RMF) and Russian officials and athletes were excluded from all UIAA-sanctioned activities and events.[3]

Role

The UIAA is today the international governing body of climbing and mountaineering and represents climbers and mountaineers around the world on a wide range of issues related to mountain safety, sustainability, and competition sport.

The International Climbers' Meet, the goal of these meets is to foster goodwill and cultural understanding through our shared passion of climbing by hosting a diverse group of climbing abilities from a multitude of countries.

Safety

The UIAA Safety Commission develops and maintains safety standards for climbing equipment. These standards are implemented worldwide by the manufacturers who also participate in annual Safety Commission meetings. The commission works with nearly 60 manufacturers worldwide and has 1,861 products certified.

Dynamic Rope UIAA fall count ratingThe test to determine the fall count uses a 5.1m rope and drops a weight (80 kg single rope / 55 kg double rope) so that it falls 4.8m before experiencing a reaction force from the rope. This means that the weight is falling below the fixed end and there is minimal rope to stretch and absorb the force. The fall count rating is the number of times the rope can undergo this test before breaking. For the dynamic rope to be UIAA certified it requires a fall count rating of 5 or more.[4]

This number does not indicate that the rope needs to be discarded after this many falls while climbing, since a fall would usually not have the climber fall beyond the belayer and there is usually more rope to stretch and absorb the fall. There have been no recorded accidents of a UIAA-certified dynamic rope breaking without there being damage from a sharp edge or chemical.

Mountain Medicine DiplomaTogether with the International Society of Mountain Medicine (ISMM) and the International Commission for Alpine Rescue (ICAR), in 1997 at Interlaken, Switzerland the UIAA Medical Commission established and developed a joint Diploma in Mountain Medicine setting minimum requirements for courses in mountain medicine. Many course organizers adopted these standards and the Diploma in Mountain Medicine (DiMM) has become a widely respected qualification.

The Medical Commission was founded in 1981. Its history dates back to an earlier time when there were only a few doctors representing the largest mountaineering federations. The commission has grown to include 22 delegated doctors from 18 different mountaineering federations, as well as 16 corresponding members from all over the world. The UIAA Medical Commission has worked very closely with the Medical Commission of the International Commission for Alpine Rescue (ICAR). The current presidents of the UIAA Medical Commission and the MedCom ICAR are always on the advisory board of the ISMM.

Competitions

Ice climbingThe UIAA is the world governing body for competition ice climbing. The annual UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup circuit and the bi-annual World Championship and Youth World Championship are organized in different continents with athletes from over 30 countries participating.

There are two ice-climbing disciplines, Speed and Lead. In Speed, athletes race up an ice face for the best time. In Lead-competitions, the climbers' ability to master a difficult route in a given time is tested.

Anti-Doping CommissionThe UIAA has adopted the World Anti-Doping Code (2014); this includes the mandatory articles of the Code and all relevant International Standards. The commission also oversees the anti-doping testing of athletes who participate in UIAA ice-climbing competitions.

Global Youth SummitThe Global Youth Summit is a series of UIAA youth events where young mountaineers from around the world come together to climb, promote peace and cooperation between countries, and work on the protection of the environment. First implemented ten years ago, it consists of a series of expeditions and camps offered by UIAA member federations to other UIAA member federations and their members.

All UIAA Global Youth Summit events are organized and undertaken in strict accordance with the relevant Federation's regulations and UIAA Youth Commission Handbook & UIAA Youth Commission criteria and recommendations governing such events. Once approved the National Federation or event organiser and their designated leaders have responsibility for the event. The UIAA Youth Commission and UIAA Office may on occasion appoint other responsible persons such as trainers, event organizers, and partners.

Safety Label holders

Source:[5]

Presidents

Source:[10]

Members

CountryAssociationMember since
Federacio Andorrana de Muntanyisme (FAM)1982
Federación Argentina de Ski y Andinismo (FASA)1951
Mountaineering Federation of Azerbaijan Republic (AAF)2011
Azerbaijan Air and Extreme Sports Federation (FAIREX)2011
Climbing & Mountaineering Belgium (CMBEL)1932
Mountaineering Union of Bosnia - Herzegovina (PSBH)1997
Confederação Brasileira de Montanhismo e Escalada (CBME)2005
Bulgarian Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (BCMF)1935
Alpine Club of Canada (ACC)1947
Ecole Nationale d'Escalade du Québec (ENEQ)2002
Fédération Québécoise de la Montagne et de l'Escalade (FQME)1975
Federación de Andinismo de Chile (FEACH)1955
Chinese Mountaineering Association (CMA)1985
China Hong Kong Mountaineering and Climbing Union (CHKMCU)1988
Mountaineering and Climbing Federation of Cyprus (KOMOA)2007
Corean Alpine Club (CAC)1969
Korean Alpine Federation (KAF)1969
Hrvatski planinarski savez (HPS)1991
Dansk Bjergklub (DB)1977
Dansk Klatreforbund (DCF)1998
Finnish Climbing Association (FCA)1994
Fédération Française des clubs alpins et de montagne (FFCAM)1932
Mountaineering and Climbing Association of Georgia (MCAG)1993
Japan Mountaineering Association (JMA)1967
Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing (EOOA)1936
Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF)1981
Himalayan Mountaineering Institute (HMI)2011
Nehru Institute for Mountaineering (NIM)2011
I.R. Iran Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation (I.R.IMSCF)1972
Mountaineering Ireland (MCI)2004
The Israeli Alpine Club (ILAC)2009
Alpenverein Südtirol (AVS)1974
Club Alpino Italiano (CAI)1932
International Skyrunning Federation (ISF)2011
Kosovo Mountaineering and Alpinist Federation (KMAF)2011
Latvijas Alpinistu Savieniba (LAA)1992
Liechtensteiner Alpenverein (LAV)1959
Lithuanian Mountaineering Association (LMA)1991
Fédération Luxembourgeoise d'Escalade, de Rendonnée Sportive et d'Alpinisme (FLERA)1960
Malta Climbing Club (MCC)2017
FYR Macedonian Mountain Sport Federation (MMSF)1999
Federación Mexicana de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada AC (FMDME)1947
Club Alpin Monégasque (CAM)1994
National Mountaineering Federation of Mongolia (NMF)2010
Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA)1975
Norges Klatreforbund (NK)1993
Norsk Tindeklub (NTK)1965
New Zealand Alpine Club (NZAC)1932
Royal Dutch Mountaineering and Climbing Club (NKBV)1932
Alpine Club of Pakistan (ACP)1979
Polish Mountaineering Association (PZA)1932
Clube Nacional de Montanhismo (CNM)1955
Federação de Campismo e Montanhismo de Portugal (FCMP)1992
Federação Portuguesa de Montanhismo e Escalada (FPME)2004
Cesky Horolezecky Svaz (CMA)1932
Associación Dominicana De Escalada y Montañismo (ADEM)2010
British Mountaineering Council (BMC)1947-[11] [12]
The Alpine Club (TAC)1934 (1932-1947[13] or 1934-1947[14] and 2003-)
Clubul Alpin Român (CAR)1937
Federația Română de Alpinism și Escaladă (FRAE)1990
Climbing Federation of Russia (CFR) (athletes and officials excluded)[15] 2004
Russian Mountaineering Federation (RMF) (athletes and officials excluded)[16] 2007
Mountaineering Association of Serbia (PSS)2002
Slovensky Horolezecky Spolok JAMES (SMU JAMES)1932
Alpine Association of Slovenia (PZS)1991
Alaskan Alpine Club (ALAC)1985
American Alpine Club (AAC)1932
The Mountain Club of South Africa (MCSA)1992
Centre Excursionista de Catalunya (CEC)1932
Euskal Mendizale Federazioa (EMF)2002
Federació d'Entitats Excursionistes de Catalunya (FEEC)2000
Federación Española de Deportes de Montaña y Escalada (FEDME)1932
Svenska Klätterförbundet (SKF)1973
Schweizer Alpen-Club (SAC)1932
Vereinigung Akademischer Alpenclubs der Schweiz (VAACS)1985
Chinese Taipei Alpine Association (CTAA)1989
Chinese Taipei Mountaineering Association (CTMA)1993
Turkiye Dagcilik Federasyonu (TDF)1967
Ukrainian Mountaineering Federation (UMF)1991
Magyar Hegy- és Sportmászó Szövetség (MHSSZ)1932
Magyar Sportturisztikai Szövetség (MSTSZ)2003
Deutscher Alpenverein (DAV)1932

External links

Notes and References

  1. Web site: UIAA Foundation & Early years. theuiaa.org. 24 November 2016.
  2. 10.1016/j.jort.2016.12.001. The true accessibility of mountaineering: The case of the High Himalaya. Journal of Outdoor Recreation and Tourism. 17. 29–43. 2017. Apollo. Michal.
  3. Web site: UIAA | UIAA Statement on Climbing Restrictions and the Ongoing Situation in Ukraine UIAA .
  4. Web site: Safety Standards – UIAA. theuiaa.org. 24 November 2016.
  5. Web site: UIAA Safety Label Holders. theUIAA. 24 May 2022.
  6. https://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/obituary-albert-eggler-1197094.html Obituary: Albert Eggler – Arts and Entertainment
  7. Web site: LeTemps.ch | "Moralité, n'allez pas à l'Eiger!" . www.letemps.ch . 2 February 2022 . https://archive.today/20140601051915/http://www.letemps.ch/Facet/print/Uuid/eb506444-1a4e-11de-894f-51ea0a570f40/Moralit%C3%A9_nallez_pas_%C3%A0_lEiger . 1 June 2014 . dead.
  8. Web site: UIAA General Assembly 2011 - UIAA - Last News. www.theuiaa.org . https://web.archive.org/web/20130408034752/https://www.theuiaa.org/news_335_UIAA-General-Assembly-2011 . 8 April 2013.
  9. http://www.grough.co.uk/magazine/2012/10/19/frits-vrijlandt-elected-uiaa-president-after-no-confidence-vote-in-former-head grough — Frits Vrijlandt elected UIAA president after no-confidence vote in former head
  10. Web site: About – UIAA – Role of Honour. theuiaa.org. 24 November 2016.
  11. Web site: About the BMC. www.thebmc.co.uk. 3 January 2020.
  12. Web site: DIRECTORY OF UIAA MEMBER ASSOCIATIONS. theuiaa.org. 8 May 2023.
  13. Book: Envisioning a League of Nations in the Alps. 9780198848325. 3 January 2020. Scaglia. Ilaria. 5 December 2019.
  14. Web site: DIRECTORY OF UIAA MEMBER ASSOCIATIONS. theuiaa.org. 8 May 2023.
  15. Web site: UIAA | UIAA Statement on Climbing Restrictions and the Ongoing Situation in Ukraine UIAA .
  16. Web site: UIAA | UIAA Statement on Climbing Restrictions and the Ongoing Situation in Ukraine UIAA .