IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships explained

The IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships are the biennial world championships for competition climbing for people with disabilities organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). This event determines the male and female world champions in various categories.

The first event was organized in Arco in 2011, held together with the IFSC Climbing World Championships.

Championships

EditionYearLocationDate(s)DisciplinesAthletesNationsWebsiteNotes
LeadSpeed
12011 Arco18–19 JulyXX[1]
22012 Paris12–16 SeptemberX[2] [3]
32014 Gijón11–14 SeptemberXhttp://med.gijon.es/[4] [5]
42016 Paris14–18 SeptemberXhttp://worldclimbing2016.com/en/[6] [7] [8]
52018 Innsbruck10–16 SeptemberXhttp://www.innsbruck2018.com/[9] [10]
62019 Briançon[11] 16–17 JulyX[12]
72021 Moscow[13] 15–17 SeptemberX
82023 Bern1–12 AugustX
92025 Seoul

Classifications and Categories

A wide range of different people take part in Paraclimbing, including visually impaired climbers, climbers with limb differences[14] and those with brain injuries or mobility impairments.[15] [16] Higher numbers equate to higher functionality (less impairment), lower numbers equate to lower functionality (more impairment).[17]

Category!Criteria!Example image
Visual impairmentB1Visual acuity is poorer than LogMAR 2.60 (blindness)
B2LogMAR of 1.50 − 2.60 and/or visual field of less than 10°
B3LogMAR of 1 − 1.40 (20/200 − 20/500 on the Snellen chart) and/or visual field of less than 40°
Upper limb(s)AU2One upper limb has reduced function below the athletes elbow and does not have a functional wrist joint
AU3One hand or multiple digits across both hands are absent or have reduced function
Lower limb(s)AL1Significantly reduced functional use for climbing or absence of bilateral lower limbs
AL2Impairment in a single lower limb or leg length difference
Range and powerRP1Impairment across all eligible impairment types with severe impairment to function affecting at least 2 limbs or a single upper limb is absent or has severely limited functional use
RP2Impairment across all eligible impairment types with moderate impairment to function affecting the trunk and/or limbs
RP3Impairment across all eligible impairment types with mild impairment to function affecting the trunk and/or limbs
In the 2022-2023 season AU1 was permanently combined with RP1, and a new category of upper arm limb difference was added. AU3 is the designated sport class for athletes with limb differences between the wrist and tips of the fingers. With a minimum impairment of a loss of 6 finger joints across both hands. Prior to the creation of this sport class many AU3 athletes classified in RP3.

Merging

If there is an insufficient number of competitors in a given category, this category can be merged into another, 'harder' category. In world championships at least six athletes from four countries must compete in each category. Merges may be performed sequentially until the required number of competitors is met.

Men's results

Speed

YearCategoryGoldSilverBronze
2011[18] Amputee Arm PD Mikhail Saparov--
Amputee Both Leg PD Boyu Xia--
Amputee Leg PD Urko Carmona Barandiaran Günther Grausam Oliviero Bellinzani
Arthritis+Neurological PD András Szijártó Matteo Alberghini Philippe Ribière
Complete Neurological Leg Disability PD Sebastian Richter--
Visual Impairment B1 Matteo Stefani Manuel Cepero Gutierrez Roman Kostyakov
Visual Impairment B2 Simone Salvagnin Oliviero Bellinzani-
Visual Impairment B3 Domingo Carretero Campon Ricardo Pérez Amado-

Lead

Gold! style="background: silver;"
SilverBronze
2011[19] Amputee Arm PD Mikhail Saparov--
Amputee Both Leg PD Boyu Xia--
Amputee Leg PD Mineo Ono Urko Carmona Barandiaran Alexander Biermann
Arthritis+Neurological PD András Szijártó Matteo Masento Alessio Cornamusini
Complete Neurological Leg Disability PD Sebastian Richter--
Visual Impairment B1 Matteo Stefani Manuel Cepero Gutierrez Roman Kostyakov
Visual Impairment B2 Koichiro Kobayashi Masayoshi Idomoto Simone Salvagnin
Visual Impairment B3 Ricardo Pérez Amado Domingo Carretero Campon-
2012Amputee Leg PD Urko Carmona Barandiaran Mineo Ono Craig Demartino
Arthritis+Neurological PD1 Manikandan Kumar Raphael Nishimura Mathieu Besnard
Visual Impairment B1 Nicolas Moineau Kenji Iwamoto Matteo Stefani
Visual Impairment B2 Sho Aita Koichiro Kobayashi Simone Salvagnin
2014Amputee Leg PD Urko Carmona Barandiaran Ronald Dickson Craig Demartino
Visual Impairment B1 Koichiro Kobayashi Nicolas Moineau Matteo Stefani
Neurological Physical Disability A Mathieu Besnard Manikandan Kumar Behnam Khalaji
Neurological Physical Disability B András Szijártó Alessio Cornamusini Serge Laurencin
2016B1 Koichiro Kobayashi Nicolas Moineau Matteo Stefani
B2 Sho Aita Mathieu Barbe Simone Salvagnin
AL-2 Albert Guardia Ferrer Julien Gasc Iván Germán Pascual
RP1 Korbinian Franck Nils Helsper Connor King
RP2 Nive Porat Alessio Cornamusini Vladimir Netsvetaev-Dolgalev
RP3 Romain Pagnoux Mathieu Besnard Gregor Selak
2018AU-2 Matthew Phillips Trevor Smith Maksim Maiorov
B1 Koichiro Kobayashi Matteo Stefani Francisco Javier Aguilar Amoedo
B2 Justin Salas Raul Simon Franco Fumiya Hamanoue
AL-2 Thierry Delarue Urko Carmona Barandiaran Albert Guardia Ferrer
RP1 Alessio Cornamusini Korbinian Franck Nils Helsper
RP2 Behnam Khalaji Nive Porat Manikandan Kumar
RP3 Romain Pagnoux Michael Cleverdon Gregor Selak
2019AU-2 Matthew Phillips Mor Michael Sapir Kevin Bartke
B1 Koichiro Kobayashi Francisco Javier Aguilar Amoedo Daniil Lisichenko
B2 Sho Aita Justin Salas Richard Slocock
B3 Cosmin Florin Candoi Lux Losey Sail Motohiro Ejiri
AL-2 Thierry Delarue Urko Carmona Barandiaran Albert Guardia Ferrer
RP1 Bastien Thomas Alessio Cornamusini Korbinian Franck
RP2 Behnam Khalaji Benjamin Mayforth Manikandan Kumar
RP3 Romain Pagnoux Mathieu Besnard Gregor Selak
2021[20] B1 Sho Aita Razvan Nedu Jesse Dufton
B2 Fumiya Hamanoue Richard Slocock Raul Simon Franco
RP1 Tanner Cislaw Korbinian Franck
RP2 Mor Michael Sapir Benjamin Mayforth Bastien Thomas
RP3 Romain Pagnoux Mathieu Besnard Iman Edrisi
AL1 Thierry Delarue Frederik Leys Shuhei Yuki
AU2 Matthew Phillips Brian Zarzuela Kevin Bartke
2023B1 Sho Aita Francisco Javier Aguilar Amoedo Răzvan Nedu
B2 Fumiya Hamanoue Richard Slocock Guillermo Pelegrín Gómez
B3 Cosmin Florin Candoi Kazuhiro Minowada Lux Losey Sail
AL1 Markus Pösendorfer Tanner Cislaw
AL2 Thierry Delarue Ethan Zilz Albert Guardia Ferrer
AU2 Isak Ripman Kevin Bartke Brian Zarzuela
AU3 Mor Michael Sapir Nobuhiro Yusaraoka Dominic Geisseler
RP1 Aloïs Pottier Elliott Nguyen Takuya Okada
RP2 Mor Michael Sapir Benjamin Mayforth Bastien Thomas
RP3 Iván Muñoz Escolar Benjamin Mayforth Manikandan Kumar

Women's Results

Speed

YearCategoryGoldSilverBronze
2011Amputee Arm PD Paula De la Calle Pizarro--
Arthritis+Neurological PD Valentyna Kurshakova--
Visual Impairment B1 Silvia Parente Dilyara Rakhmankulova-
Visual Impairment B2 Tatiana Panova--

Lead

Gold! style="background: silver;"
SilverBronze
2011Amputee Arm PD Paula De la Calle Pizarro--
Arthritis+Neurological PD Valentyna Kurshakova--
Visual Impairment B1 Dilyara Rakhmankulova Silvia Parente-
Visual Impairment B2 Tatiana Panova--
2012Visual Impairment Dilyara Rakhmankulova Silvia Parente Giulia Poggioli
Physical Disability Frances Brown Silvia Giacobbo Dal Prà Valentyna Kurshakova
2014Amputee Leg PD Christa Brelsford Kate Sawford Esme Harte
Visual Impairment B2 Alessia Refolo Tanja Glusic Giulia Poggioli
Neurological Physical Disability A Elodie Orbaen Tiziana Paolini Oriane Moreno
2016AU-2 Maureen Beck Melinda Vigh Lucia Capovilla
AL-2 Lucie Jarrige Kate Sawford Esme Harte
RP3 Elodie Orbaen Oriane Moreno Aika Yoshida
2018AU-2 Melinda Vigh Maureen Beck
B2 Abigail Robinson Whiteny Pesek Tanja Glusic
AL-2 Lucie Jarrige Kate Sawford Emily Stephenson
RP2 Hannah Baldwin Marlene Prat Anita Aggarwal
RP3 Aika Yoshida Momoko Yoshida Elodie Orbaen
2019AU-2 Maureen Beck Melinda Vigh
B2 Abigail Robinson Yumi Ejiri Edith Scheinecker
AL-2 Lucie Jarrige Joanna Newton Jaqueline Fritz
RP2 Hannah Baldwin Anita Aggarwal Leanora Volpe
RP3 Aika Yoshida Momoko Yoshida Martha Evans
2021B2 Abigail Robinson Edith Scheinecker Nadia Bredice
B3 Ionela Grecu Tanja Glusic Sunita Dhondappanavar
RP1 Pavitra Vandenhoven Eva Mol Marta Peche Salinero
RP2 Leanora Volpe Lucia Capovilla
RP3 Lucie Jarrige Martha Evans Katharina Ritt
2023B1in B2
B2 Abigail Robinson Seneida Biendarra Edith Scheinecker
B3 Sunita Dhondappanavar Mika Maeoka Yumi Ejiri
AL1in RP1
AL2 Lucie Jarrige Sarah Larcombe Rachel Maia
AU2 Lucia Capovilla Maureen Beck
AU3in RP3
RP1 Pavitra Vandenhoven Melissa Ruiz Marta Peche Salinero
RP2 Dina Eivik Jasmin Plank Anna Devries
RP3 Marina Dias Christiane Luttikhuizen Martha Evans

References

  1. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championships – Arco (ITA) 2011. ifsc-climbing.org. 17 May 2013.
  2. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championship – Paris (FRA) 2012. ifsc-climbing.org. 17 May 2013.
  3. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championship 2012 – Overall rankings. EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org. 17 September 2018.
  4. Web site: World Championships.
  5. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championship 2014 – Combined rankings. IFSC. https://web.archive.org/web/20180918012101/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/item/533-2014-combined-world-championship-medalists. 18 September 2018. dead. 17 September 2018.
  6. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016. IFSC. 17 September 2018.
  7. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings. IFSC. 17 September 2018.
  8. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championship 2016 – Overall rankings. EGroupware@ifsc-climbing.org. 17 September 2018.
  9. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018. IFSC. 17 September 2018.
  10. Web site: IFSC Climbing World Championship 2018 – Combined results. IFSC. 17 September 2018.
  11. Web site: IFSC announce Paraclimbing World Championships 2019 will take place in Briançon, France. www.thebmc.co.uk. 2019-06-29.
  12. Web site: IFSC PARACLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - BRIANÇON (FRA) 2019 .
  13. Web site: IFSC Plenary Assembly 2019 – A full recap. 16 March 2019. IFSC. 17 May 2019.
  14. Web site: World champs to be valuable experience for climber . 2022-11-03 . NZ Herald . en-NZ.
  15. Web site: ARTICLE: The Rise of the UK Paraclimbing Community . 2022-11-03 . www.ukclimbing.com . en.
  16. Web site: 2021-09-22 . Hiking Mt. Whitney is tough. With a spinal cord injury, it's an endless suffer-fest . 2022-11-03 . Los Angeles Times . en-US.
  17. Web site: Classification . 2022-06-28 . Paraclimbing News . en.
  18. Web site: The 1st IFSC PARACLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - ARCO (ITA) - July 18-19, 2011 - SPEED.
  19. Web site: The 1st IFSC PARACLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS - ARCO (ITA) - July 18-19, 2011 - LEAD.
  20. Web site: IFSC Paraclimbing World Championships Moscow 2021 . 2023-08-12 .

External links

See main article: world championships.