| Helmut Lang | |
| Birth Name: | Helmut Lang |
| Birth Date: | 10 March 1956 |
| Birth Place: | Vienna, Austria |
| Nationality: | Austrian |
| Awards: | Österreichischen Ehrenzeichens für Wissenschaft und Kunst, 2009 |
Helmut Lang (born 10 March 1956) is an Austrian artist and former fashion designer and mentor who lives and works in New York and on Long Island.
In 1986, Lang showed his first Helmut Lang runway collection in Paris at Centre Georges Pompidou. His first Helmut men's collection debuted in 1987 and a decade later he moved his label from Vienna to New York.[1] [2]
Lang used unconventional materials such as rubber, feathers and metallic fabrics and redefined the silhouette of the 1990s and early 2000s. He broke away from the runway show-as-spectacle in the height of the 1980s opulence and was the first to stream his collection online in 1998.[3]
Lang's brand was known for its utilitarian, minimalist aesthetic,[4] as well as for his prestige range of denim.[5]
In 1999, Lang sold a 51% stake in his company to the Prada Group, with Prada running distribution and manufacturing and Lang controlling design and advertising. Afterwards, Prada developed a line of Helmut Lang accessories such as shoes, belts and bags, and opened Helmut Lang stores in Hong Kong and Singapore.[1] Sales under the Prada Group fell from $100 million in 1999 to $37 million in 2003. The brand's decision to cancel the licensing for an external company to manufacture and market its profitable range of Helmut Lang Jeans was cited as one of the reasons for its loss in revenue.[6] In 2005 he left his label and retired from fashion. He has since been based in New York City and on Long Island as a practicing artist. In 2006, Prada sold the Helmut Lang brand to Link Theory Holdings.
Lang has collaborated with artists Jenny Holzer and Louise Bourgeois. His recent works explore abstract sculptural forms and physical arrangements beyond the limitations of the human body. Lang had his first solo art exhibition ALLES GLEICH SCHWER at the Kestnergesellschaft in Hannover in 2008 and has since presented solo exhibitions internationally.[7] Lang has published excerpts from his ongoing art projects Long Island Diaries http://hl-art.com/ and The Selective Memory Series http://hl-art.com/ in a number of publications, such as Purple, BUTT Magazine http://buttmagazine.com/, Fanzine 137 https://web.archive.org/web/20110309003720/http://byluisvenegas.com/zines/fanzine137/, Visionaire and most recently The Travel Almanac https://web.archive.org/web/20111231032026/http://www.travel-almanac.com/tta-2.
This timeline outlines Helmut Lang's work in fashion and art up until 2021.
Solo Exhibitions
| 2020 | 41.1595° N, 73.3882° W, MoCA Westport, Westport [8] |
| 2019 | 63, von ammon co, Washington, D.C.[9] |
| 2019 | network, Tennis Elbow at The Journal Gallery, New York [10] |
| 2017 | Various Conditions, Sammlung Friedrichshof, Zurndorf [11] |
| 2017 | Various Conditions, Stradtraum, Vienna [12] |
| 2017 | new work, Sperone Westwater, New York [13] |
| 2016 | BURRY, Dallas Contemporary, Dallas |
| 2015 | Helmut Lang, Sperone Westwater, New York [14] |
| 2012 | Sculptures, Mark Fletcher, New York [15] |
| 2011 | Make It Hard, The Fireplace Project, East Hampton[16] |
| 2008 | Alles Gleich Schwer, kestnergesellschaft, Hanover[17] |
| 2008 | Archive, 032c Museum Store, Berlin [18] |
| 2007 | Next Ever After, The Journal Gallery, Brooklyn [19] |
| 2007 | Selective Memory Series, Purple Institute, Paris[20] [21] |
| 1986 | Viennese Modernism. Centre National d'Art et de Culture Georges Pompidou, Paris[22] |
Group Exhibitions
| 2023 | FOCUS GROUP 4, von ammon co, Washington, D.C.[23] |
| 2022 | FOCUS GROUP 3, von ammon co, Washington, D.C.[24] |
| 2021 | HOW DOES ONE THINK OF NOTHING?, FF projects, San Pedro[25] |
| 2021 | Punk Is Coming, MoCA Westport[26] |
| 2021 | ALIEN NATION, von ammon co, Washington, D.C.[27] |
| 2021 | WOOD WORKS: Raw, Cut, Carved, Covered, Sperone Westwater, New York[28] |
| 2020 | everything not saved will be lost, FF Projects, San Pedro Garza García[29] |
| 2020 | FOCUS GROUP II, von ammon co, Washington, D.C.[30] |
| 2020 | 100 Sculptures, no gallery, Los Angeles[31] |
| 2019 | SMILE, Halsey McKay, East Hampton[32] |
| 2018 | Wormwood, Ellis King, Dublin[33] |
| 2015 | Space and Matter, Sperone Westwater, New York[34] |
| 2013 | The System of Objects, Deste Foundation, Athens[35] |
| 2012 | Helmut Lang / Banks Violette / Dan Colen, Mark Fletcher, New York[36] |
| 2011 | Commercial Break, Venice Biennale, Venice[37] |
| 2011 | Austria Davaj!, Shchusev Museum of Architecture, Moscow[38] |
| 2010 | Not in Fashion, Museum für Moderne Kunst, Frankfurt[39] |
| 2009 | Industrial Light Magic, Goethe-Institut, New York[40] |
| 1998 | Louise Bourgeois / Jenny Holzer / Helmut Lang, Kunsthalle Wien, Vienna[41] |
| 1997 | Art/Fashion, Guggenheim Museum SoHo, New York[42] |
| 1997 | I Smell You on My Clothes, Florence Biennale, Florence [43] |
This timeline outlines the developments in Lang's fashion as well significant attributes of key collections.
| 1977 | Opens made-to-measure studio in Vienna.[44] | |||||||||
| 1980–84 | Development of signature collections and made-to-measure service in Vienna. | |||||||||
| 1986 | First presentation in Paris. Shown off the Paris fashion calendar as part of the exhibition "Vienne 1880–1939: L'Apocalypse Joyeuse" at The Centre National d'Art et de Culture Georges Pompidou.[45] | |||||||||
| 1987 | Introduction of the first Helmut Lang Men's collection. Women and Men's collections are shown together on the Paris fashion calendar. Men's silhouette marked the return of the narrow and tailored suit shown with the white shirt, black tie, and made-to-measure shoes. | |||||||||
| 1988 | Rejects the structure of the traditional fashion show. Introduces the concept of “Séance de Travail.” | |||||||||
| 1990 | Introduces layering of transparent fabrics in new materials and textures. New approach towards the treatment of these. | Introduction of Helmut Lang footwear | ||||||||
| 1991 | Introduces wet looks, thermal fabrics, paper dresses and Native American influences. | |||||||||
| 1992 | Introduces extremely shiny fabrics and textures. Thermal leathers, technical fabrics, padded clothing and body-conscious shapes.[46] | |||||||||
| 1993 | A/W '93–'94. Street style / haute couture presented in wool knits, pure cashmere and velvet. Trademark slit and slashed sleeves first introduced.[47] | S/S '94. Introduces cuffed pants, holographic fabrics, holographic sterling silver jeans, lacquered silks, phantom prints, apron dresses, colored tuxedo stripes, stretch daytime smoking coats, raw denim and customized silk dresses. Introduces hand-sprayed shoes and customized dancing shoes. | First separate Men's presentation. Men's S/S '94 shown as part of the Paris fashion calendar. | Begins collaboration with Juergen Teller on backstage documentation and advertising. | Lang accepted a professorship at 'Modeklasse', the famous department of fashion design at the University of Applied Arts Vienna. | |||||
| 1994 | A/W '94–'95. Latex-bounded lace, lacquered silks, smoking coats and suits, nylon veil dresses, airbrushed silks and slash geometric patterns on candy-colored fabrics. Introduced reflective fabrics and nude as staple color.[48] | First show presented at 17 Rue Commines. | S/S '95. "Hawaiian techno,” high-tech and air-tech. New nylon fabrics introduced. | |||||||
| 1995 | A/W '95–'96. “Couture customized”, camel and tweeds, bra holsters, chiffon and faille. Introduces two-color bloc paneling. | Introduction of Helmut Lang underwear. | S/S '96. New take on lace for men and women, delicate materials, electro vibe, visible bras, apron belts and contrast layering.[49] | |||||||
| 1996 | A/W '96–'97. Techno jungle, covered sequins, floral patterns, cargo styles, Japanese Obi style tops and evening dresses. Introduces signature uniform outerwear. Presented with gold blanked covered audience.[50] | Introduction of Helmut Lang Jeans, featuring khakis, chinos, denims, work wear, casual wear, functionals and protective wear.[51] | S/S '97. Introduction of sashes, festive and ceremonial wear, dislodged lingerie, tuxedo accessories and colored denim.[52] | |||||||
| 1997 | A/W '97–'98. Shift toward luxury with the use of classic and pure materials. Reintroduction of fine cashmeres, blended wools and silks. Introduction of funnel neck coats and pleated skirts. Silk tulle, cummerbunds and silk down coated duvet wraps. Definition of new Helmut Lang style with made-to-measure finishing.[53] | Second separate Men's presentation. Men's S/S 98 collection shown as part of the New York fashion calendar. | S/S '98. Introduction of A-line skirt and dresses. Usage of crinoline and pleats. Reintroduction of the classic white T-shirt. For men, introduction of the urban utilitarian. Vintage, painted and sanded denim. Introduction of fold-out clothes.[54] | Introduction of “accessoire vêtements.”. | Starts collaboration with Jenny Holzer on all Helmut Lang stores.[55] https://web.archive.org/web/20090727185756/http://www.contemporaryfashion.net/index.php/all/more/3085/uk/work.html | |||||
| 1998 | Relocates company from Vienna to New York. First fashion house to make a transcontinental move.[56] | Presentation of the A/W '98–'99 collection over the Internet. First-ever Internet-based fashion show. Launch of helmutlang.com.’’[57] | Moves the presentation venue from Paris to New York, beginning with the A/W '98–'99 collection. | Introduction of Helmut Lang Eyewear. | Helmut Lang advertises on New York taxi rooftops. ‘’First fashion house to use this advertising channel’’. Features photography by Robert Mapplethorpe and Bruce Weber. | A/W '98–'99. Luxury sportswear translated to luxury eveningwear. Couture-sportwear, volume and silk-furs. Introduction of the signature parka and burnt denim. | For the S/S '99 collection, Helmut Lang moves the presentation ahead of the European schedule (from November to September), having the impact of shifting the entire fashion calendar.’’ [58] | S/S '99. Utilitarian motorbike pants and arm bags. Flower and phantom prints, washed silver platinum leathers, silk feather coats and peasant looks. Introduction of extensions as major detail.[59] | ||
| 1999 | A/W '99–'00. Introduction of interior strap extensions. Introduction of shearing and colored leathers. Pure sterling silver fabrics and anti-stress materials. Introduction of the neck-rest. | S/S '00. Electric colors, training gear attributes translated into haute couture cuts and fabric, silk organza, feather detailing and transparent layering.[60] | Introduction of an extended luxury bag and shoe collection.[61] | Introduction of the signature industrial rubber band as functional part of accessories and shoes. | ||||||
| 2000 | A/W '00–'01. Monochromatic uniforms.[62] http://www.style.com/fashionshows/collections/F2000RTW/review/HLANG | S/S '01. Entomologic and marine biological structures. Austrian “Dirndl” influences, sharp strap compositions and lace-up.[63] http://www.style.com/fashionshows/collections/S2001RTW/review/HLANG | Launch of Helmut Lang fragrance, Men and Women. Collaboration with Jenny Holzer on fragrance advertising. | |||||||
| 2001 | A/W '01–'02. Opaque and sheer contrasts, luxury materials, organza and leather trim details.[64] | S/S '02. Block panels, patent leather, leopard print silk, fold prints, architectural construction, organza layering and Viennese crochet. Introduction of accessory holsters and fragment pieces, | ||||||||
| 2002 | A/W '02–'03. Structured layering, re-worked fisherman knits, monochromatic and metal blocks, combined scarf-tops and further incorporation of movement. http://www.style.com/fashionshows/collections/F2002RTW/review/HLANG | Moves the presentation of collections back to Paris. Separate Men's presentations through 2004. Women's presentations continues to be shown together with men's.[65] | S/S '03. Surf references, Montauk-inspired, bright Day-Glo colors, bubble-wrap plastic, high contrast compositions, abstracted wetsuit bands, surf tails, cutouts, inside out made-to-measure trousers, laundry bag pattern, zipper surf couture, zipper smoking stripes and rubber signal prints.[66] http://www.style.com/fashionshows/collections/S2003RTW/review/HLANG | Limited-edition silver choker by Louise Bourgeois.[67] https://web.archive.org/web/20090727185835/http://www.contemporaryfashion.net/index.php/all/none/1872/uk/work.html | Opens made-to-measure studio in New York. | |||||
| 2003 | A/W '03–'04. “Urban Warrior” vernacular, aviation fragmented pieces, magnetic flaps, petaled organza, layering as clothing extension, interchangeable and modular pieces, one leg smoking chap and parachute holsters. Introduction of chaps for men and women. Introduction of cashmere and fleece fused material.[68] http://www.style.com/fashionshows/collections/F2003RTW/review/HLANG | Collaboration with Louise Bourgeois in the creation of limited-edition pieces.[69] https://web.archive.org/web/20090727173113/http://www.contemporaryfashion.net/index.php/all/more/3137/uk/work.html | Music by Brigitte Cornand featuring vocals by Louise Bourgeois[70] https://web.archive.org/web/20090727173113/http://www.contemporaryfashion.net/index.php/all/more/3137/uk/work.html | S/S 04. “Dragonfly,” cut outs, battered metal, extended fragment accessories, ornamental pouches, hand wraps, wide color palette, entomologic and urban cowboy references.[71] | Introduction of metallic patent leather in clothing and accessories. http://www.style.com/fashionshows/collections/S2004RTW/review/HLANG | - | 2004 | A/W 04-05. Eastern European influences, colored shearing, horsehair, copper leather, Hungarian pleats, French maid look, cummerbund tops, drapée holsters, skirt capes, French lace and Russian bark pattern. Introduction of made-to-measure evening dresses.[72] http://www.style.com/fashionshows/collections/F2004RTW/review/HLANG | Collaboration with Louise Bourgeois in the creation of limited edition pieces.[73] [74] https://web.archive.org/web/20090727185811/http://www.contemporaryfashion.net/index.php/all/more/3811/uk/work.html | S/S 05. Maritime, rope and knot detailing, bathing suit trompe l’oeil waist. 1000 eye / pearl pieces, fishtails and sailor pant tuxedos. Introduction of elastic seersucker.[75] http://www.style.com/fashionshows/collections/S2005RTW/review/HLANG |
Helmut Lang's works are part of the following collections:
Original Helmut Lang stores (until 2005)
All of the original Helmut Lang stores have been closed. The last one to close was the Paris location in late 2005. Most of the art-inspired stores had been designed by Lang in collaboration with Gluckman Mayner Architects of New York.
1995
1997
2000
2002
2003
Four different scents were created by Lang in cooperation with Procter & Gamble, all of which were discontinued with the 2005 closing of the brand.
Key interviews