Grosseto Explained

Grosseto
Official Name:Città di Grosseto
Coordinates:42.7667°N 17°W
Region:Tuscany
Province:Grosseto (GR)
Frazioni:Alberese, Batignano, Braccagni, Istia d'Ombrone, Marina di Grosseto, Montepescali, Principina a Mare, Principina Terra, Rispescia, Roselle
Area Total Km2:474.46
Population Total:82131
Population As Of:30 November 2015
Population Demonym:Grossetani
Elevation M:10
Saint:St. Lawrence
Day:10 August
Postal Code:58100
Area Code:0564

Grosseto (pronounced as /it/) is a comune in the central Italian region of Tuscany, the capital of the province of Grosseto and of the Maremma.[1] The city lies 14km (09miles) from the Tyrrhenian Sea, at the centre of an alluvial plain on the Ombrone river.

It is the most populous city in Maremma, with 82,284 inhabitants. The comune of Grosseto includes the frazioni of Marina di Grosseto, the largest one, Roselle, Principina a Mare, Principina Terra, Montepescali, Braccagni, Istia d'Ombrone, Batignano, Alberese and Rispescia.

History

The origins of Grosseto can be traced back to the High Middle Ages. It was first mentioned in 803 as a fief of the Counts Aldobrandeschi, in a document recording the assignment of the church of St. George to Ildebrando degli Aldobrandeschi, whose successors were counts of the Grossetana Mark until the end of the 12th century.

Grosseto steadily grew in importance, owing to the decline of Rusellae and Vetulonia until it was one of the principal Tuscan cities. In 1137 the city was besieged by German troops, led by Duke Heinrich X of Bavaria, sent by the emperor Lothair III to reinstate his authority over the Aldobrandeschi. In the following year the bishopric of Roselle was transferred to Grosseto.

In 1151 the citizens swore loyalty to the Republic of Siena, and in 1222 the Aldobrandeschi gave the Grossetani the right to have their own podestà, together with three councilors and consuls. In 1244 the city was reconquered by the Sienese, and its powers, together with all the Aldobrandeschi's imperial privileges, were transferred to Siena by order of the imperial vicar. Thereafter Grosseto shared the fortunes of Siena. It became an important stronghold, and the fortress (rocca), the walls and bastions can still to be seen.

In 1266 and in 1355, Grosseto tried in vain to win freedom from the overlordship of Siena. While Guelph and Ghibelline parties struggled for control of that city, Umberto and Aldobrandino Aldobrandeschi tried to regain Grosseto for their family. The Sienese armies were, however, victorious, and in 1259 they named a podestà from their city. But Grosseto gained its freedom and in the following year and fought alongside the Florentine forces in the Battle of Montaperti.

Over the next 80 years Grosseto was again occupied, ravaged, excommunicated by Pope Clement IV, besieged by emperor Louis IV and by the antipope Nicholas V in 1328, until it finally submitted to its more powerful neighbour, Siena.

The pestilence of 1348 struck Grosseto hard and by 1369 its population had been reduced to some hundred families. Its territory, moreover, was frequently ravaged, notably in 1447 by Alfons V of Sicily and in 1455 by Jacopo Piccinino.

Sienese rule ended in 1559, when Charles V handed over the whole duchy to Cosimo I de Medici, first grand duke of Tuscany. In 1574 the construction of a line of defensive walls was begun, which are still well preserved today, while the surrounding swampy plain was drained. Grosseto, however, remained a minor town, with only 700 inhabitants at the beginning of the 18th century.

Under the rule of the House of Lorraine, Grosseto flourished. It was given the title of capital of the new Maremma province.

In 1943, the city was heavily bombed by the Allies. On 22 March 1944, the Maiano Lavacchio massacre took place into the countryside between Grosseto and Magliano in Toscana.

In 2024, Grosseto was selected as the European Green Pioneer of Smart Tourism. This accolade, awarded by the European Commission, recognizes small, non-traditional, and emerging sustainable tourism destinations in Europe, with Grosseto being chosen ahead of 40 other cities.[2]

Geography

Climate

Grosseto has a Mediterranean climate with very mild wet winters and very hot dry summers. On average there are 25 nights a year where the low reaches or dips below freezing 0°C but there are also 41 days where the high is at or surpasses 30°C. There are 12 days of fog on an average year.

Government

See also: List of mayors of Grosseto.

Subdivisions

The Municipality of Grosseto was subdivided into eight districts (circoscrizioni) from 1977 to 2011.

text-align=left
Former districtNeighbourhoods (quartieri and frazioni)
Circoscrizione 1
Barbanella
Barbanella, Barbaruta, Casotto dei Pescatori, Cernaia, Marrucheto, Pollino, Posto Raccolta Quadrupedi, Rugginosa
Circoscrizione 2
Centro
Centro storico, Porta Nuova, Porta Vecchia, Borgo Corsica, Borgo Tripoli, Alberino, Crespi, San Martino, Casalecci
Circoscrizione 3
Gorarella
Gorarella, Pianetto, Principina Terra, Querciolo, San Lorenzo, Trappola
Circoscrizione 4
Pace
Sugherella, Commendone, Pace, Poggione, Villaggio Curiel, Villaggio Europa
Circoscrizione 5
Alberese-Rispescia
Alberese, Rispescia, Grancia, Ottava Zona
Circoscrizione 6
Marina
Marina di Grosseto, Principina a Mare
Circoscrizione 7
Braccagni-Montepescali
Braccagni, Montepescali, Acquisti, Madonnino, Versegge
Circoscrizione 8
Istia-Batignano-Roselle
Batignano, Istia d'Ombrone, Roselle, Nomadelfia, Vallerotana

Frazioni

Alberese

See main article: Alberese.

Alberese, located 20km (10miles) south-east of the capital, is the heart of the Natural Park of Maremma. The name is also extended to the surrounding rural areas which go from the first foothills of the hinterland hills to the sea through the northern slopes of the Uccellina Mountains.

Batignano

See main article: Batignano. Of uncertain origins, Batignano developed in the Medieval period, around the castle which controlled the outlet of the road towards Siena on the plain of Grosseto and some lead and silver mines. It was a feud of the Aldobrandeschi and in 1213 belonged to Manto da Grosseto. In the 14th century, it then passed under the dominion of Siena, hosting many immigrants from Corsica, and so in the Grand Duchy of Tuscany. In 1738 it was reunited with the comune of Grosseto.

Braccagni

See main article: Braccagni. Once being simply an appendix of Montepescali, Braccagni is seen today more independently as it is believed to be the nodal point of the economy of the area. The railway station, the Aurelia, many activities which have developed in the last few years, new habitations, these have all created its new identity as a modern town, in continuous evolution.

Istia d'Ombrone

See main article: Istia d'Ombrone.

Istia d'Ombrone is a town situated about 3km (02miles) east of the capital. The center of Istia emerged as a fortified settlement along the valley of the river Ombrone and it was owned by the bishops of Roselle since 862.

Marina di Grosseto

See main article: Marina di Grosseto.

Marina di Grosseto is a famous tourist destination located 12km (07miles) from Grosseto; it is an important seaside resort in Maremma. Once a fishing village, it is known for its hilly hinterland, rich in macchia and wide beaches overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, with a vast pine forest that extends from Punta Ala to Alberese.

Montepescali

See main article: Montepescali. Montepescali is a small town of medieval origins. The site, from which the scenic panorama of the coastal strip and the Tuscan Archipelago up to Corsica can be seen, is also known as "Terrace or balcony of the Maremma".

Principina a Mare

See main article: Principina a Mare.

Principina a Mare is a seaside resort. The center, sparsely populated land in winter, consists primarily of houses of holidaymakers, hotels, high class and a camp category average. However, the location is quite popular due to its proximity to the mouth of the river Ombrone and the Natural Park of Maremma.

Principina Terra

See main article: Principina Terra.

The village of Principina Terra is located south-west of the capital city, almost halfway between the city center and the seaside resorts of Marina di Grosseto and Principina a Mare. The area surrounding the village was washed from the shores of ancient Lake Prile.

Rispescia

See main article: Rispescia.

Rispescia is a modern residential area, located about 10km (10miles) south-east of the capital, near the Natural Park of Maremma and the frazione of Alberese.

Roselle

See main article: Roselle, Italy and Rusellae. Roselle, in Latin Rusellae, now a municipal frazione of Grosseto, was once the main city in the area. Of Etruscan origin, it was built on a hill that offered protection and commanded all the nearby valley. The extent of its dominion is not clear, but probably at its peak included most of the Vetulonia territory. The city's splendour ended in 294 BCE, when, according to Livy, the Roman Republic conquered it. After the end of the Roman Empire, in the 5th century, Roselle was still the most important centre of what is now southern Tuscany. Its gradual decline began in 1138, when the diocesan seat was moved to Grosseto.

Etruscan ruins had been discovered in Roselle, including cyclopean walls, 6km (04miles) in circumference, and sulphur baths, which in the last century were restored for medicinal uses. There was formerly an amphitheatre.

Culture

Language

See main article: Tuscan dialect.

Literature

Andrea da Grosseto was born in Grosseto in the first half of the 1200's. He is very important in Italian literature, because he is considered the first writer in the Italian language. Andrea da Grosseto translated from Latin the Moral Treaties of Albertano of Brescia, in 1268. His texts were written in the Italian language, without too many redundancies and constructions, words and typical ways of speech of the vernacular and the dialect. The writer intended to not utilise his own Grossetan dialect, but to use a general "Italian national language". In fact he twice refers to the vernacular which he uses defining it italico (Italic). So Andrea da Grosseto was the first to intend to use vernacular as a national unifying language from the north to the south of the entire Peninsula.

Museums

Cinema

Grosseto and Maremma have been settings for numerous works of fiction and movies, including the novels and associated films, such as The Easy Life (1962) with Vittorio Gassman; La vita agra (1964), from the novel of the same name by Luciano Bianciardi, with Ugo Tognazzi; An Ideal Place To Kill (1969) directed by Umberto Lenzi; In viaggio con papà (1982), with Alberto Sordi; Nothing Left to Do But Cry (1984), with Massimo Troisi and Roberto Benigni; It's Happening Tomorrow (1988); Viola bacia tutti (1997) with Asia Argento; The Talented Mr. Ripley with Matt Damon and Jude Law; Emma sono io (2002); Roberto Benigni's Pinocchio; Manuale d'amore 3 (2011) with Robert De Niro and Monica Bellucci; Swiss movie Summer Games, and some Leonardo Pieraccioni's movies. Famous Italian actress Elsa Martinelli and actor Luigi Pistilli were both born in Grosseto. Actress Laura Morante was born in Santa Fiora, and director Umberto Lenzi in Massa Marittima, both in the province of Grosseto.

Cuisine

Schiaccia alla pala (oven-baked bread with oil) and Schiaccia con cipolle e acciughe (oven-baked bread with onions and anchovies) are typical breads of the city of Grosseto. Acquacotta is typical of Mount Amiata: it is a poor soup, and the main ingredients are artichokes, broccoli, cabbage, beans, borage, pisciacane (dandelion) and similar vegetables. The Maremmana cattle is one of the two breeds used in the preparation of the florentine steak.

Main sights

The Medicean Walls

See also: Walls of Grosseto. The walls were commissioned by Cosimo I de Medici in 1564, in order to replace those from the 12th-14th centuries, as part of his policy of making Grosseto a stronghold to protect his southern border. The design was by Baldassarre Lanci, and construction began in 1565. Until 1757 the exterior was surrounded by a ditch with an earthen moat. There were two main gates: Porta Nuova on the north and Porta Reale (now Porta Vecchia) on the south.

The walls are now used as a public park and walking area.

Religious architecture

Cathedral

See main article: Grosseto Cathedral. The Romanesque cathedral, the main monument of the city, is named for its patron St. Lawrence, and was begun at the end of the 13th century, by architect Sozzo Rustichini of Siena. Erected over the earlier church of Santa Maria Assunta, it was only finished in the 15th century (mainly due to the continuing struggles against Siena).

The façade of alternate layers of white and black marble is Romanesque in style, but is almost entirely the result of 16th century and 1816–1855 restorations: it retains decorative parts of the originary buildings, including Evangelists' symbols. The layout consists of a Latin cross, with transept and apse. The interior has a nave with two aisles, separated by cruciform pilasters. The main artworks are a wondrously carved baptismal font from 1470–1474 and the Madonna delle Grazie by Matteo di Giovanni (1470).

The campanile (bell tower) was finished in 1402, and restored in 1911.

Churches in the city centre

Churches outside the city walls

Abbeys

Civil architecture

Palazzi

Within the walls of Grosseto are the following buildings:

Outside the walls of Grosseto are the following buildings:

Theatres

Monuments

Others

Sports

Grosseto has enjoyed a long tradition in sports. Baseball and football are perhaps the most popular in Grosseto. However, other sports such as American football, cricket, horse racing and athletics are also widely practised.

The premier society of men's baseball in Grosseto is called Bbc Grosseto Orioles (also referred to by its sponsored name of Montepaschi). Grosseto participates in the highest level of play in Italy, Serie A1, and it won the national championship in 1986, 1989, 2004 and 2007. The team won the European Cup in 2005. Montedeipaschi Grosseto hosts his home games at Stadio Roberto Jannella.

The Unione Sportiva Grosseto Football Club was founded in 1912. It has participated in the National Championship of Soccer in Serie B (the second level of the Italian soccer leagues) since the 2007–2008 season. The football club U.S. Grosseto hosts its games at the Stadio Carlo Zecchini.

Other important teams are the Maremma Cricket Club (Serie A) and American Football Condor Grosseto (Serie B).

Horse racing is of considerable importance, with several races throughout the year that, in summer, often taking place at night. The sports facility where are played the various races is the hippodrome Casalone, located in the south of the city, at the beginning of the road that leads to Principina a Mare.

The city is also a major center for athletics: Stadio Carlo Zecchini has in fact hosted the European Junior Championships in 2001 and World Junior Championships in 2004.

Grosseto in 2006 was also the headquarters of the World Military Fencing Championships.

Transportation

Trains

The city is served by the Pisa-Livorno-Rome railway line connecting Genoa to the capital and serves as the terminus of trains on the single track branch line from Grosseto via Monte Antico to Siena, where it converges with a line from Chiusi and proceeds north to Empoli and Florence.

Here is the list of railway stations in the city of Grosseto:

Buses

Local bus service in Grosseto was managed by Tiemme Toscana Mobilità one of the companies of the consortium ONE Scarl[3] to accomplish the contract stipulated with the Regione Toscana for the public transport in the 2018-2019 period. Intercity buses depart from the main bus station in Piazza Marconi. There are also several bus services going from the city to Florence, Siena and other cities in Tuscany. A network of urban bus routes also operates in Grosseto, and the bus station serves as an interchange point between these, the intercity routes and extra-urban routes which extend into the rest of the Province of Grosseto.

Since 1 November 2021 the public local transport is operated by Autolinee Toscane.[4]

Port

The city has a modern tourist dock opened in 2004 in the seaside resort of Marina di Grosseto, at the mouth of the San Rocco Canal. For passenger traffic in the medium range, the main port is Porto Santo Stefano (40 km), with ferry only for the islands of Giglio and Giannutri.

Airport

Grosseto and the Maremma are served by Grosseto Baccarini Airport, located midway between the capital and Marina di Grosseto. The airport is a military site which is also used as a commercial airport by civilian charter flights and private aircraft, and has a small terminal to accommodate these.

With regard to domestic and international flights, the airports of reference are the airports of Florence, Pisa and Rome-Fiumicino. All three airports are located about 150km (90miles) from the capital of the Maremma. For a few months in 2018, the airport was served by a flight to Bern, operated by SkyWork Airlines, until it went into liquidation.

Notable residents

International relations

See also: List of twin towns and sister cities in Italy.

Twin towns – sister cities

Grosseto is twinned with:[5]

See also

External links

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Il capoluogo maremmano sbarca in radio .
  2. Web site: Grosseto: The snubbed Italian town that's now winning awards . 2024-07-30 . www.bbc.com . en-GB.
  3. Web site: Muoversi in Toscana . ONE Scarl . 24 May 2022.
  4. Web site: Guida al primo giorno di servizio . Autolinee Toscane . 30 May 2022.
  5. Web site: Grosseto. comune-italia.it. Comune Italia. it. 22 December 2019.