Givenchy Explained

Givenchy
Type:Subsidiary
Founder:Hubert de Givenchy
Location:3 Avenue George V
Location City:Paris
Location Country:France
Key People:Alessandro Valenti (CEO)[1]
Industry:Fashion
Parent:LVMH
Num Employees:3800
Num Employees Year:2018
Homepage:givenchy.com

Givenchy ([2] in French ʒivɑ̃ʃi/) is a French luxury fashion and perfume house. It hosts the brand of haute couture and ready-to-wear clothing, accessories, perfumes and cosmetics of Parfums Givenchy. The house of Givenchy was founded in 1952 by designer Hubert de Givenchy and is a member of Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture et du Prêt-à-Porter. It is currently owned by luxury conglomerate LVMH.

History

Formation and first years

In 1952, Hubert de Givenchy founded his own luxury house and launched a new collection Les Séparables with some floaty skirts and puffy blouses made from raw cotton.[3]

Givenchy achieved critical acclaim with Vogue praising his "wonderful first collection" 14. The collection included the Bettina Blouse a white shirt named in honour of Bettina Graziani, which was then painted in one of René Gruau's works.[4]

The New York Times magazine published an article entitled "A Star Is Born" and l'Album du Figaro also wrote a feature stating that "In one night, Hubert de Givenchy became one of fashion's most famous children with his first collection."[5]

Models such as Suzy Parker and Dorian Leigh became muses of the house.[6]

In terms of innovation, he used 'shirting', a raw cotton similar to pattern paper, to create his chic and casual collections.[7]

In 1954, Hubert de Givenchy presented the first shirt dress (which later evolved in to a sack dress in 1957). He was the first high fashion designer to create a luxury ready-to-wear clothing line, called "Givenchy Université", which was produced in Paris using machinery imported from the United States.[8]

1950s: Balenciaga and Givenchy

In 1956, both Cristóbal Balenciaga and Hubert de Givenchy presented their collection in New York during a charity gala in aid of the American hospital in Paris.[9]

Expansion

In 1969, Hubert de Givenchy launched his fashion line for men, "Gentleman Givenchy". The boutique was opened in November on Avenue George V.[9]

On the advice of Cristóbal Balenciaga, Givenchy developed his licences in the 1970s, in order to protect the Haute Couture collections.[10]

During this period, the House of Givenchy diversified its activities to create shoes, jewellery, ties, tableware, upholstery and kimono. Hubert de Givenchy was chosen to design the interior of Hilton hotels around the world, and even a car (the Continental Mark V).[11]

Hubert de Givenchy was elected the personality of the year 1979 and the most elegant man of the year by The Best Magazine.[12]

In 1982, a retrospective presided by Audrey Hepburn was organized by the Fashion Institute of Technology of New York.[13]

The following year Hubert de Givenchy was named « chevalier de la Légion d'Honneur » and in 1985, Jacques Lang, the French minister of the Culture, gave him the Oscar dedicated to the art of elegance during a celebration at the Opera in Paris.[12]

Departure of Hubert de Givenchy

In 1988, Givenchy was bought by LVMH.[14] [15]

Hubert de Givenchy left the company in 1995. He was succeeded by a variety of young British creators including John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and Julien MacDonald.

From 2000, the brand’s women’s line was re-named Givenchy, from Couture Givenchy. The Gentleman Givenchy men’s wear line was named Givenchy.[16]

2005–2017, Riccardo Tisci

The reins for both collections were passed on to Riccardo Tisci in 2005 when he was named artistic director of womenswear. Tisci introduced his own style and influences, changed the house codes, and added a touch of dark and sensual romanticism.[17]

Philippe Fortunato, the former chief operating of LVMH Moet Hennessy Vuitton SA – China, is the current Chief Operating at Givenchy.[18]

Givenchy designs have been worn by a number of celebrities on red carpet occasions, including Rooney Mara at the 2012 Academy awards. Also responsible for working with Madonna designing her costumes for her Sticky & Sweet tour as well as the 2012 Super Bowl Halftime Show.[19]

In 2016, Tisci launched a sportswear collaboration with Nike called NikeLab x RT: Training Redefined aimed at Olympic athletes for the 2016 Summer Olympics as everyday gym users.[20]

In February 2017, Riccardo Tisci announced that he would be leaving Givenchy, after twelve years working as the brands Creative Director.[21]

2017–2020, Clare Waight Keller

From May 2017 until April 2020, its artistic director was Clare Waight Keller, the first woman to hold that position.[22]

The House of Givenchy announced the appointment of Clare Waight Keller as artistic director, effective 2 May 2017. Waight Keller took on all creative responsibilities, including Women's and Men's Ready-to-wear and accessories collections, as well as Haute Couture.[23] Meghan Markle wore a gown from Claire Waight Keller at her wedding to Prince Harry on 19 May 2018.[24]

After successfully running three consecutive combined shows under the assistance of Keller, the brand announced to bring back the menswear collection calendar for the autumn/winter 2019 season.[25]

2020–2023, Matthew Williams

In June 2020, Givenchy announced the hiring of Matthew Williams, a stylist and designer best known for co-founding the influential streetwear brand 1017 ALYX 9SM.[26] Williams brought an edgier aesthetic to Givenchy, with his work often seen on celebrities such as Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid.[27] The commercial and critical response to his work at Givenchy was mixed, with Carine Roitfeld saying she could not identify the Givenchy woman; "it's not a strong DNA."[28] In November 2023, Givenchy announced that Williams will be departing the creative director position at the end of 2023.[29]

2024-present

In July 2024, Alessandro Valenti is appointed as CEO succeeding to Renaud Lesquen.[30] [31] [32]

Other activities

In 2001, Givenchy entered into licensing agreements with De Rigo for eyewear and with Rossi Moda for shoes, respectively.[33]

In 2000, Givenchy decided to discontinue Vision, its secondary collection formerly known as Boutiques Givenchy.[34]

Icons and the cinema

Audrey Hepburn

See main article: Fashion of Audrey Hepburn. In 1953, Audrey Hepburn and Hubert de Givenchy met by the intermediary of Gladys de Segonzac in a way to create her costumes for Sabrina by Billy Wilder. As Gladys de Segonzac had organized the meeting with 'Miss Hepburn', the fashion designer thought that he was going to receive Katharine Hepburn. Dressed in a pink and white gingham privateer, a T-shirt and a gondolier hat, the British actress received some prototypes of the future collection. Audrey Hepburn decided to wear Givenchy clothes on and off the screen, such as in Sabrina (1954), Love in the Afternoon (1957), Funny Face (1957), Breakfast at Tiffany's (1961), Charade (1963), Paris When It Sizzles (1963), How to Steal a Million (1965) and Bloodline (1979).[35] [36]

Celebrities

Givenchy attracted many other celebrities, including the likes of Lauren Bacall, Babe Paley, Michael Norman, Greta Garbo, Elizabeth Taylor, Marlène Dietrich, Jacqueline Kennedy-Onassis, Beyoncé Knowles,[37] Princess Grace of Monaco,[38] Michèle Bennett,[39] and even Wallis Simpson, for whom he created some special garment bags to keep the duchess's orders from being viewed by other clients. The collection of attire (dress, coat, perfume, etc.) furnished for Simpson would later become known as 'blue Wallis'.[40]

Today, Givenchy dresses many Hollywood stars, including Cate Blanchett, Emma Stone, Lady Gaga, Julianne Moore, Julia Roberts, Rooney Mara, and others.[41] In May 2019, Givenchy confirmed that singer Ariana Grande would be the new face of its Fall and Winter campaign that was unveiled that July.[42] [43] On February 10, 2021, K-pop group Aespa became its ambassador, making the group the first K-pop artist chosen as such by the French fashion house.[44]

Cinema

Operations

As of 2013, the company's operations were divided between: "Europe accounts for 42 percent of the business, China 18 percent, Asia-Pacific 14 percent, America 12 percent, the Middle East 7 percent, Japan 4 percent, and the rest of the world 3 percent."[45]

Advertising

For its advertising campaigns, Givenchy has been working with photographers like Richard Avedon (1997), Steven Meisel (1998), Craig McDean (1999),[46] David Sims (2000),[47] Annie Leibovitz (2001), Mario Testino (2003),[48] Inez and Vinoodh (2007)[49] and Kacper Kasprzyk (2024).[50] The Fall 2010 collection from Givenchy and Riccardo Tisci featured a transgender person for the first time.[51]

External links

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Givenchy, Still Without a Designer, Names a New CEO . 2 July 2024 .
  2. 30 April 2019.
  3. http://www.elle.fr/Mode/Les-defiles-de-mode/Marques/Defile/Givenchy/%28marque%29/Givenchy Givenchy
  4. Book: Beyfus . Drusilla . Vogue on Hubert de Givenchy . 2015 . ABRAMS . 9781613128213 . 160.
  5. Web site: 2018-03-12 . French fashion designer Hubert de Givenchy dies aged 91 . 2022-04-01 . The Local France . en-US . 23 January 2022 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220123051439/https://www.thelocal.fr/20180312/french-fashion-designer-hubert-de-givenchy-dies-aged-91/ . live .
  6. Web site: Shaw . Sophie . GIVENCHY MUSES THROUGHOUT HISTORY . CR Fashion Book . Hearst Magazine Media, Inc. . 28 September 2020 . 6 November 2020 . https://web.archive.org/web/20201106061705/https://www.crfashionbook.com/fashion/g26802695/givenchy-muses-throughout-history/ . dead .
  7. http://www.essortment.com/givenchy-36984.html All about Givenchy
  8. http://www.stylesequel.com/designers/givenchy/key-fashion-moments Key fashion moments
  9. http://www.vogue.com/voguepedia/Givenchy Givenchy
  10. http://www.bloc.com/article/mode-et-beaute/marques-et-magasins/givenchy-le-couturier-des-stars.html Givenchy, le couturier des stars
  11. http://www.vogue.fr/thevoguelist/givenchy/211 The Vogue list: Givenchy
  12. https://books.google.com/books?id=RDffbodlGzsC&dq=%22givenchy+directeur+artistique+de+schiaparelli%22&pg=PT41 Hubert de Givenchy, entre vies et légendes
  13. https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1961&dat=19820509&id=XMxVAAAAIBAJ&sjid=nEANAAAAIBAJ&pg=1422,7383188 Thirty years of Givenchy will be displayed
  14. http://www.puretrend.com/marque/givenchy_b4294959758#histoire Givenchy : histoire
  15. News: 1988-11-09 . COMPANY NEWS; Givenchy Purchase . 2024-06-09 . The New York Times . en-US . 0362-4331.
  16. Katherine Weisman (10 January 2000), Shaking Things Up At Givenchy Women's Wear Daily.
  17. http://madame.lefigaro.fr/style/riccardo-tisci-lesprit-fort-de-givenchy-191211-203802 Riccardo Tsci, l'esprit fort de Givenchy
  18. Web site: Oral History: Philippe Fortunato of Givenchy - Worth. 5 August 2016. worth.com. 14 April 2017. 15 January 2020. https://web.archive.org/web/20200115024214/https://www.worth.com/oral-history-philippe-fortunato/. live.
  19. Web site: BBC News – Oscars 2012: Stars arrive . BBC . 27 February 2012 . 26 April 2012 . 3 September 2019 . https://web.archive.org/web/20190903070630/https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-17174658 . live .
  20. News: Givenchy's Riccardo Tisci Designs for Nike. Cristobal. Sarah. 2016-04-18. The Wall Street Journal. 0099-9660. 2016-04-27. 26 April 2016. https://web.archive.org/web/20160426132559/http://www.wsj.com/articles/givenchys-riccardo-tisci-designs-for-nike-1460990894. live.
  21. News: Riccardo Tisci #BoF500 The Business of Fashion. The Business of Fashion. 2017-02-17. en-GB. 18 February 2017. https://web.archive.org/web/20170218063305/https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/people/riccardo-tisci. live.
  22. News: See the first campaign under Givenchy's new artistic director. 11 July 2017. Hero. 27 July 2023. 8 April 2023. https://web.archive.org/web/20230408054207/https://hero-magazine.com/article/103452/givenchy-clare-waight-keller-first-campaign. live.
  23. https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/givenchy-announces-clare-waight-keller-as-creative-director Givenchy announces Clare Waight Keller as creative director
  24. Meghan Markle Is Wearing a Givenchy Dress at the Royal Wedding and It's Absolutely Stunning. 2018-05-19. Harper's BAZAAR. 2018-05-19. en-US. 19 May 2018. https://web.archive.org/web/20180519181657/https://www.harpersbazaar.com/celebrity/latest/a20114549/meghan-markle-royal-wedding-dress/. live.
  25. Web site: Givenchy Returns To Standalone Menswear Shows. 25 October 2018. Vogue. 25 October 2018. 16 January 2020. https://web.archive.org/web/20200116021043/https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/givenchy-standalone-menswear-shows. live.
  26. Web site: Matthew Williams is Givenchy's New Designer . 15 June 2020 . 28 September 2022 . 29 September 2022 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220929142022/https://wwd.com/fashion-news/designer-luxury/givenchy-new-designer-matthew-williams-alyx-1203651011/ . live .
  27. Web site: Matthew M. Williams recruits his celebrity mates for the SS21 Givenchy campaign . 28 September 2022 . 28 September 2022 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220928130129/https://hero-magazine.com/article/184637/givenchy-ss21-campaign . live .
  28. News: Testa . Jessica . 2022-10-01 . Givenchy on the Line . en-US . The New York Times . 2022-12-10 . 0362-4331 . 10 December 2022 . https://web.archive.org/web/20221210032446/https://www.nytimes.com/2022/10/01/style/will-you-give-matthew-m-williams-a-chance.html . live .
  29. Web site: Williams . Robert . 2023-12-01 . Matthew Williams to Exit Givenchy . 2023-12-01 . The Business of Fashion . en . 1 December 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20231201200835/https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/luxury/matthew-williams-to-exit-givenchy/ . live .
  30. Web site: Givenchy appoints new CEO . 2 July 2024 .
  31. Web site: Alessandro Valenti est nommé Pdg de Givenchy . 10 July 2024 . Luxus +.
  32. Web site: Givenchy appoints new CEO . 11 July 2024 . Vogue. 2 July 2024 .
  33. Robert Murphy (31 January 2001) Givenchy Adds Two Licenses Women's Wear Daily.
  34. Katherine Weisman (10 January 2000), Shaking Things Up At Givenchy Women's Wear Daily.
  35. https://blogs.wsj.com/speakeasy/2012/09/04/hubert-de-givenchy-remembers-audrey-hepburn/ Hubert de Givenchy Remembers Audrey Hepburn
  36. http://www.tendances-de-mode.com/2008/01/28/651-audrey-hepburn Audrey Hepburn
  37. http://www.stylesequel.com/designers/givenchy/biography Givenchy: biography
  38. http://www.elle.fr/Mode/Les-defiles-de-mode/Marques/Defile/Givenchy/(marque)/Givenchy Givenchy
  39. Book: Plunging into Haiti: Clinton, Aristide, and the Defeat of Diplomacy . 9781604735345 . Pezzullo . Ralph . 2006 . Univ. Press of Mississippi .
  40. http://www.gala.fr/l_actu/news_de_stars/la_duchesse_de_windsor_pourquoi_elle_reste_une_legende_213475 la duchesse de Windsor: pourquoi elle reste une légende
  41. Web site: Les tapis rouges et la Maison de couture Givenchy . 14 April 2017 . https://web.archive.org/web/20160624200317/https://www.givenchy.com/fr/maison/tapis-rouge?p=0 . 24 June 2016 . dead .
  42. Web site: Ariana Grande is the new face of Givenchy. 10 May 2019. 1 July 2019. 1 July 2019. https://web.archive.org/web/20190701190133/https://edition.cnn.com/2019/05/10/celebrities/ariana-grande-givenchy-trnd/index.html. live.
  43. Web site: Ariana Grande's Ponytail Is the New Face of Givenchy. 10 May 2019. 1 July 2019. 15 November 2019. https://web.archive.org/web/20191115220934/https://www.elle.com/fashion/celebrity-style/a27432137/givenchy-face-ariana-grande-ponytail/. live.
  44. Web site: 에스파, 명품 브랜드 앰버서더 선정.."멤버들 에너지에 압도". n.news.naver.com. 3 October 2022. 3 October 2022. https://web.archive.org/web/20221003061212/https://n.news.naver.com/entertain/article/109/0004352425. live.
  45. Web site: Givenchy Looks to Capitalize on Momentum . WWD . 7 November 2013 . 7 November 2013 . Socha, Miles . 19 February 2014 . https://web.archive.org/web/20140219174046/http://www.wwd.com/retail-news/designer-luxury/givenchy-looks-to-capitalize-on-momentum-7266346?src=nl%2FmornReport%2F20131107 . live .
  46. Katherine Weisman (22 January 1999), Paris's Fashion Fling Women's Wear Daily.
  47. Katherine Weisman (7 January 2000), Paris Accents The Power Of Product Women's Wear Daily.
  48. https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/givenchy-plans-new-fragrance-731859/ Givenchy Plans New Fragrance
  49. Amy Wicks (2 November 2007), Photographers’ Ad Game Women's Wear Daily.
  50. Lily Templeton (29 January 2024), Amelia Gray Hamlin Fronts Givenchy Spring Campaign Women's Wear Daily.
  51. Web site: Tisci's Trans Europe Express... Fashionair Paused . Wwd.com . 7 May 2010 . 26 April 2012 . 22 January 2012 . https://web.archive.org/web/20120122063509/http://www.wwd.com/media-news/fashion-memopad/tiscis-trans-europe-express-fashionair-paused-3063927?module=memopad#/article/media-news/fashion-memopad/tiscis-trans-europe-express-fashionair-paused-3063927?page=1 . live .

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