Eight-thousander explained

The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognised by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than 8000m (26,000feet) in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and at times, the UIAA has considered whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountain peaks by including the major satellite peaks of eight-thousanders. All of the eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits lie in an altitude known as the death zone.

From 1950 to 1964, all 14 eight-thousanders were summited by expedition climbers in the summer (the first to be summited was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first to be summited in winter being Mount Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021). On a variety of statistical techniques, the deadliest eight-thousander is Annapurna I (one death – climber or climber support – for every three summiters), followed by K2 and Nanga Parbat (one death for every four to five summiters), and then Dhaulagiri and Kangchenjunga (one for every six to seven summiters).

The first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders was the Italian climber Reinhold Messner in 1986, who did not use any supplementary oxygen. In 2010, Edurne Pasaban, a Basque Spanish mountaineer became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders, but with the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2011, Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2013, South Korean Kim Chang-ho climbed all 14 eight-thousanders in 7 years and 310 days, without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In July 2023, Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa set a speed record of 92 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, with supplementary oxygen. In July 2022, Sanu Sherpa became the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice, which he did from 2006 to 2022.

Issues with false summits (e.g. Cho Oyu, Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri), or separated dual summits (e.g. Shishapangma and Manaslu), have led to disputed claims of ascents. In 2022, after several years of research, a team of experts reported that they could only confirm evidence that three climbers, Ed Viesturs, Veikka Gustafsson and Nirmal Purja, had stood on the true geographic summit of all 14 eight-thousanders.

Climbing history

First ascents

The first recorded attempt on an eight-thousander was when Albert F. Mummery, Geoffrey Hastings and J. Norman Collie tried to climb Pakistan's Nanga Parbat in 1895. The attempt failed when Mummery and two Gurkhas, Ragobir Thapa and Goman Singh, were killed by an avalanche.

The first successful ascent of an eight-thousander was by the French climbers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, who reached the summit of Annapurna on 3 June 1950 using expedition climbing techniques as part of the 1950 French Annapurna expedition. Due to its location in Tibet, Shishapangma was the last eight-thousander to be ascended, which was completed by a Chinese team led by Xu Jing in 1964 (Tibet's mountains were closed by China to foreigners until 1978).[1]

The first winter ascent of an eight-thousander was by a Polish team led by Andrzej Zawada on Mount Everest, with Leszek Cichy and Krzysztof Wielicki reaching the summit on 17 February 1980;[2] all-Polish teams would complete nine of the first fourteen winter ascents of eight-thousanders. The final eight-thousander to be climbed in winter was K2, whose summit was ascended by a 10-person Nepalese team on 16 January 2021.[3]

Only two climbers have completed more than one first ascent of an eight-thousander, Hermann Buhl (Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak) and Kurt Diemberger (Broad Peak and Dhaulagiri). Buhl's summit of Nanga Parbat in 1953 is notable as being the only solo first ascent of one of the eight-thousanders. The Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka is noted for creating over ten new routes on various eight-thousander mountains.[4] Italian climber Simone Moro made the first winter ascent of four eight-thousanders (Shishapangma, Makalu, Gasherbrum II, and Nanga Parbat),[5] while three Polish climbers have each made three first winter ascents of an eight-thousander, Maciej Berbeka (Cho Oyu, Manaslu, and Broad Peak), Krzysztof Wielicki (Everest, Kangchenjunga, and Lhotse) and Jerzy Kukuczka (Dhaulagiri I, Kangchenjunga, and Annapurna I).[4]

All 14

On 16 October 1986, Italian Reinhold Messner became the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders. In 1987, Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka became the second person to accomplish this feat.[4] Messner summited each of the 14 peaks without the aid of bottled oxygen, a feat that was only repeated by the Swiss Erhard Loretan nine years later in 1995 (Kukuczka had used supplementary oxygen while summiting Everest and on no other eight-thousander[4]).[6]

On 17 May 2010, Spanish climber Edurne Pasaban became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders.[7] In August 2011, Austrian climber Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to climb the 14 eight-thousanders without the use of supplementary oxygen.[8] [9]

The first couple and team to summit all 14 eight-thousanders were the Italians Nives Meroi (who was the second woman to accomplish this feat without supplementary oxygen), and her husband on 11 May 2017.[10] [11] The couple climbed alpine style, without the use of supplementary oxygen or other support.[11] [12]

On 23 May 2023, Nepali guide Kami Rita summitted Everest for the 28th time (a record for Everest), becoming the first-ever person to climb an eight-thousander 38 times.[13] In July 2022, Sanu Sherpa became the first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders twice.[14] He started with Cho Oyu in 2006, and completed the double by summiting Gasherbrum II in July 2022.[15]

On 20 May 2013, South Korean climber Kim Chang-ho set a new speed record of climbing all 14 eight-thousanders, without the use of supplementary oxygen, in 7 years and 310 days. On 29 October 2019, the British-Nepali climber Nirmal Purja set a speed record of 6 months and 6 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders with the use of supplementary oxygen.[16] [17] [18] On 27 July 2023, Kristin Harila and Tenjen Lama Sherpa set a new speed record of 92 days for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders with supplementary oxygen.

Deadliest

See also: List of deaths on eight-thousanders.

Estimated sample death rates for the 14 eight-thousanders[19] [20]
Eight
thousander
From 1950 to March 2012Climber
death rate
[21] [22]
Total
ascents
Total
deaths
Deaths as
% of ascents
Everest56562233.9%1.52%
K22834014.1%3.00%
Lhotse461132.8%1.03%
Makalu361318.6%1.63%
Cho Oyu3138441.4%0.64%
Dhaulagiri I4486915.4%2.94%
Manaslu661659.8%2.77%
Nanga Parbat3356820.3%
Annapurna I1916131.9%4.05%
Gasherbrum I
(Hidden Peak)
334298.7%
Broad Peak404215.2%
Gasherbrum II930212.3%
Kangchenjunga243 40 16% 3.00%
Shishapangma302258.3%

The eight-thousanders are the world's deadliest mountains. The extreme altitude and the fact that the summits of all eight-thousanders lie in the Death Zone mean that climber mortality (or death rate) is high.[23] Two metrics are quoted to establish a death rate (i.e. broad and narrow) that are used to rank the eight-thousanders in order of deadliest.

The tables from the HDB for eight-thousanders also show that the death rate of climbers for the period 1990 to 2009 (e.g. modern expeditions), is roughly half that of the combined 1950 to 2009 period, i.e. climbing is becoming safer for the climbers attempting the summit.[21]

List of first ascents

From 1950 to 1964, all 14 of the eight-thousanders were summited in the summer (the first was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first being Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021).

First ascent and first winter ascent for each of the 14 eight-thousanders
MountainFirst ascentFirst winter ascent
NameHeight[26] Prom.CountryDateSummiter(s)DateSummiter(s)
Everest8849abbr=onNaNabbr=on[27] 8849abbr=onNaNabbr=on
29 May 1953
on British expedition
17 February 1980

K28611abbr=onNaNabbr=on4020abbr=onNaNabbr=on
[28]
31 July 1954

on Italian expedition
16 January 2021 Nirmal Purja
Gelje Sherpa
Mingma David Sherpa
Mingma Gyalje Sherpa
Sona Sherpa
Mingma Tenzi Sherpa
Pem Chhiri Sherpa
Dawa Temba Sherpa
Kili Pemba Sherpa
Dawa Tenjing Sherpa
Kangchenjunga8586abbr=onNaNabbr=on3922abbr=onNaNabbr=on
[29]
25 May 1955

on British expedition
11 January 1986
Lhotse8516abbr=onNaNabbr=on610abbr=onNaNabbr=on
18 May 1956
31 December 1988
Makalu8485abbr=onNaNabbr=on2378abbr=onNaNabbr=on
15 May 1955
9 February 2009
Cho Oyu8188abbr=onNaNabbr=on2344abbr=onNaNabbr=on
19 October 1954

12 February 1985
Dhaulagiri I8167abbr=onNaNabbr=on3357abbr=onNaNabbr=on13 May 1960




21 January 1985
Manaslu8163abbr=onNaNabbr=on3092abbr=onNaNabbr=on9 May 1956
12 January 1984
Nanga Parbat8125abbr=onNaNabbr=on4608abbr=onNaNabbr=on3 July 1953
on German–Austrian expedition
26 February 2016

Annapurna I8091abbr=onNaNabbr=on2984abbr=onNaNabbr=on3 June 1950

on French expedition
3 February 1987
Gasherbrum I
(Hidden Peak)
8080abbr=onNaNabbr=on2155abbr=onNaNabbr=on
5 July 1958
9 March 2012
Broad Peak8051abbr=onNaNabbr=on1701abbr=onNaNabbr=on
9 June 1957



5 March 2013


Gasherbrum II8034abbr=onNaNabbr=on1524abbr=onNaNabbr=on
7 July 1956

2 February 2011

Shishapangma8027abbr=onNaNabbr=on2897abbr=onNaNabbr=on2 May 1964







Doji
14 January 2005

List of climbers of all 14

There is no single undisputed source or arbitrator for verified ascents of Himalayan eight-thousander peaks.

Various mountaineering journals, including the Alpine Journal and the American Alpine Journal, also maintain extensive records and archives on expeditions to the eight-thousanders, but do not always opine on disputed ascents, and nor do they maintain registers or lists of verified ascents of the eight-thousanders.[30]

Elizabeth Hawley's The Himalayan Database,[31] is considered as an important source for verified ascents for the Nepalese Himalayas. Online databases of Himalayan ascents pay close regard to The Himalayan Database, including the website AdventureStats.com,[32] and the Eberhard Jurgalski List.[30] [33]

Verified ascents

The "No O2" column lists people who have climbed all 14 eight-thousanders without supplementary oxygen.

List of climbers who have summited all 14 eight-thousanders[34] !Order!Order
(No O2)!Name!Period climbing
eight-thousanders!Born!Age!Nationality
11Reinhold Messner1970–1986194442 Italian
2Jerzy Kukuczka1979–1987194839 Polish
32Erhard Loretan1982–1995195936 Swiss
4[35] Carlos Carsolio1985–1996196233 Mexican
5Krzysztof Wielicki1980–1996195046 Polish
63Juanito Oiarzabal1985–1999195643 Spanish
7Sergio Martini1983–2000194951 Italian
8Park Young-seok1993–2001196338 Korean
9Um Hong-gil1988–20011960[36] 40 Korean
104Alberto Iñurrategi1991–2002[37] 196833 Spanish
11Han Wang-yong1994–2003196637 Korean
125[38] Ed Viesturs1989–2005195946 American
136[39] [40] [41] Silvio Mondinelli1993–2007195849 Italian
147[42] Iván Vallejo1997–2008195949 Ecuadorian
158[43] Denis Urubko2000–2009 197335 Kazakhstani
16Ralf Dujmovits1990–20091961[44] 47 German
17[45] 9[46] Veikka Gustafsson1993–2009 196841 Finnish
18[47] Andrew Lock1993–20091961[48] 48 Australian
1910João Garcia1993–2010196743 Portuguese
20[49] Piotr Pustelnik1990–2010195158 Polish
21[50] Edurne Pasaban2001–2010197336 Spanish
22[51] Abele Blanc1992–2011[52] [53] 195456 Italian
23Mingma Sherpa2000–2011197833 Nepali
24 11Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner1998–2011197040 Austrian
252001–2011197536 Kazakhstani
2612Maxut Zhumayev2001–2011197734 Kazakhstani
272000–2011196150 Korean
28[54] 13Mario Panzeri1988–2012196448 Italian
29[55] Hirotaka Takeuchi1995–2012197141 Japanese
30Chhang Dawa Sherpa2001–2013198230 Nepali
3114Kim Chang-ho2005–2013197043 Korean
322002–2014[56] 196845 Spanish
3315Radek Jaroš1998–2014196450 Czech
34/35[57] 16/17Nives Meroi1998–2017[58] [59] 196155 Italian
34/3516/171998–2017[60] 196255 Italian / Slovenian
361998–2017[61] [62] [63] 196452 Slovak
3718Azim Gheychisaz2008–2017[64] 198137 Iranian
38Ferran Latorre1999–2017[65] 197046 Spanish
3919Òscar Cadiach1984–2017[66] 195264 Spanish
40Kim Mi-gon2000–2018[67] [68] 197345 Korean
41Sanu Sherpa2006–2019[69] 197544 Nepali
42Nirmal Purja2014–2019[70] 198336British
43Mingma Gyabu Sherpa2010–2019[71] [72] 198930 Nepali
44Kim Hong-bin2006–2021[73] [74] [75] 196457 Korean
45Nima Gyalzen Sherpa2004–2022[76] [77] 198537 Nepali
46Dong Hong Juan2015–2023[78] [79] 198142 Chinese
47Kristin Harila2021–2023[80] [81] 198637 Norwegian
482012–2023[82] [83] [84] [85] 196855 Swiss / French / Canadian
49Tunç Fındık2001–2023197251 Turkish
50Tenjen Lama Sherpa2016–2023[86] [87] [88] 35[89] Nepali
51Gelje Sherpa2017–2023[90] [91] 1992[92] 30 Nepali
52Chris Warner1999–2023[93] 196558 American
5320Marco Camandona2000-2024[94] [95] 197054 Italian

Disputed ascents

Claims have been made for summiting all 14 peaks for which not enough evidence was provided to verify the ascent; the disputed ascent in each claim is shown in parentheses in the table below. In most cases, the Himalayan chronicler Elizabeth Hawley is considered a definitive source regarding the facts of the dispute. Her The Himalayan Database is the source for other online Himalayan ascent databases (e.g. AdventureStats.com).[96] [97] The Eberhard Jurgalski List is also another important source for independent verification of claims to have summited all 14 eight-thousanders.[30]

width=530pxName and detailsPeriod climbing
eight-thousanders
BornAgeNationality
(Lhotse 1997)[98]
1983–1998195246 Italian
Alan Hinkes (Cho Oyu 1990)[99] [100]
1987–2005195453 British
Vladislav Terzyul (Shishapangma (West) 2000, Broad Peak 1995[101] [102])[103] [104]
1993–2004
(deceased)
195349 Ukrainian
Oh Eun-sun (Kangchenjunga 2009)[105] [106] [107]
1997–2010196644 Korean
(Shishapangma 2012)[108]
[109]
2001–2013196350 Spanish
Zhang Liang (Shishapangma 2018)[110] [111] [112]
2000–2018196454 Chinese

Verification issues

A recurrent problem with verification is the confirmation that the climber reached the true peak of the eight-thousander. Eight-thousanders present unique problems in this regard as they are so infrequently summited, their summits have not yet been exhaustively surveyed, and summiting climbers are often suffering the extreme altitude and weather effects of being in the death zone.[30]

Cho Oyu for example, is a recurrent problem eight-thousander as its true peak is a small hump about a thirty minutes walk into the large flat summit plateau that lies in the death zone. The true peak is often obscured in very poor weather, and this led to the disputed ascent (per the table above) of British climber, Alan Hinkes (who has refused to re-climb the peak).[113] [114] Shishapangma is another problem peak because of its dual summits, which despite being close in height, are up to two hours climbing time apart and require the crossing of an exposed and dangerous snow ridge.[30] [115] When Hawley judged that Ed Viesturs had not reached the true summit of Shishapangma (which she deduced from his summit photos and interviews), he then re-climbed the mountain to definitively establish his ascent.[116] [30]

In a May 2021 interview with the New York Times, Jurgalski pointed out further issues with false summits on Annapurna I (a long ridge with multiple summits), Dhaulagiri (misleading false summit metal pole), and Manaslu (additional sharp and dangerous ridge to the true summit, like Shishapangma), noting that of the existing 44 accepted claims (as per the table earlier), at least 7 had serious question marks (these were in addition to the table of disputed ascents), and even noting that "It is possible that no one has ever been on the true summit of all 14 of the 8,000-meter peaks".[30] In June 2021, Australian climber Damien Gildea wrote an article in the American Alpine Journal on the work that Jurgalski and a team of international experts were doing in this area, including publishing detailed surveys of the problem summits using data from the German Aerospace Center.[117]

In July 2022, Jurgalski posted conclusions of the team's research (the wider team being of Rodolphe Popier and Tobias Pantel of The Himalayan Database, and Damien Gildea, Federico Bernardi, Bob Schelfhout Aubertijn, and Thaneswar Guragai). According to their analysis, only three climbers, Ed Viesturs, Veikka Gustafsson and Nirmal Purja have stood on the true summit of all 14 eight-thousanders, and no female climber had yet done so. Viesturs is also the first to have done so without the use of oxygen. Jurgalski allowed for the fact that they had deliberately not stood on the true summit of Kangchenjunga out of religious respect.[118] The team has not formally published their work, and according to Popier, they had not decided about "the best respectful form to present it".[118]

Proposed expansion

In 2012, to relieve capacity pressure and overcrowding on the world's highest mountain, greater restrictions were placed on expeditions to the summit of Mount Everest.[119] To address the growing capacity constraints, Nepal lobbied the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (or UIAA) to reclassify five subsidiary summits (two on Lhotse and three on Kanchenjunga), as standalone eight-thousanders, while Pakistan lobbied for a sixth subsidiary summit (on Broad Peak) as a standalone eight-thousander.[120] See table below for list of all subsidiary summits of eight-thousanders.

In 2012, the UIAA initiated the ARUGA Project, with an aim to see if these six new -plus peaks could feasibly achieve international recognition.[120] The proposed six new eight-thousander peaks have a topographic prominence above, but none would meet the wider UIAA prominence threshold of (the lowest prominence of the existing 14 eight-thousanders is Lhotse, at).[121] Critics noted that of the six proposed, only Broad Peak Central, with a prominence of, would even meet the prominence threshold to be a British Isles Marilyn.[122] The appeal noted the UIAA's 1994 reclassification of Alpine four-thousander peaks used a prominence threshold of, amongst other criteria; the logic being that if worked for summits, then is proportional for summits.[123]

, there has been no conclusion by the UIAA and the proposals appear to have been set aside.

List of the subsidiary peaks of the 14 eight-thousanders.[124]
Proposed new eight-thousanderHeight
(m)
Prominence
(m)
Dominance
(Prom / Height)
as a %
Dominance
classification[125]
Broad Peak Central80111812.26B2
Kangchenjunga W-Peak (Yalung Kang)85051351.59C1
Kangchenjunga S-Peak84761161.37C2
Kangchenjunga C-Peak8473630.74C2
Lhotse C-Peak I (Lhotse Middle)8410650.77C2
Lhotse Shar8382720.86C2
K 2 SW-Peak8580300.35D1
Lhotse C-Peak II8372370.44D1
Everest W-Peak8296300.36D1
Yalung Kang Shoulder8200400.49D1
Kangchenjunga SE-Peak8150300.37D1
K 2 P. 8134 (SW-Ridge)8134350.43D1
Annapurna C-Peak8051490.61D1
Nanga Parbat S-Peak8042300.37D1
Annapurna E-Peak8026650.81C2
Shisha Pangma C-Peak8008300.37D1
Everest NE-Shoulder8423190.23D2
Everest NE-Pinnacle III8383130.16D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle III8327100.12D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle II8307120.14D2
Lhotse N-Pinnacle I8290100.12D2
Everest NE-Pinnacle II8282250.30D2

See also

External links

Notes and References

  1. Web site: . Finding China . 14 November 2004 . 5 August 2022 . Yi Wyn Yen.
  2. Mount Everest: The First Winter Ascent. Andrzej . Zawada . Ingeborga . Doubrawa-Cochlin. Peter. Cochlin. The Alpine Journal. 1984. 50–59.
  3. News: . Former Gurkha Nirmal Purja among Nepalese climbers to complete first winter ascent of deadly K2 . https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220111/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2021/01/16/former-gurkha-nirmal-purja-among-nepalese-climbers-complete/ . 11 January 2022 . subscription . live . Ben . Farmer . 16 January 2021 . 16 January 2021.
  4. Web site: Nicholas . Hobley . Remembering Jerzy Kukuczka, the legendary Polish mountaineer . 24 October 2019 . PlanetMountain . 10 December 2021.
  5. Web site: . "It's a Suffering Game": Simone Moro and the Fine Art of Climbing 8,000m Peaks in Winter . 13 December 2021 . 4 August 2022 . Marcello . Rossi.
  6. Web site: PlanetMountain . Erhard Loretan, good-bye to a great alpinist . 29 April 2011 . 4 August 2022 . Vinicio . Stefanello.
  7. Web site: Oh Eun-Sun report, final: Edurne Pasaban takes the throne. ExplorersWeb. 10 December 2010. subscription. 2014-01-04. 16 April 2016. https://web.archive.org/web/20160416151948/http://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=19771. dead.
  8. News: Austrian woman claims Himalayas climbing record . 2011-08-24. BBC News. 23 August 2011.
  9. Web site: Austrian is first woman to scale 14 peaks without oxygen. AsiaOne. 30 August 2011. 2014-01-04.
  10. News: Italians become first couple to scale all eight-thousanders. 2017-05-11. ansa.it. 2023-02-02. en.
  11. Web site: PlanetMountain . Nives Meroi and Romano Benet summit Annapurna, their 14th 8000er . 5 August 2022 . Vinicio . Stefanello . 11 May 2017.
  12. Web site: Alpinismo, il record di Meroi-Benet: è italiana la prima coppia su tutti gli Ottomila. 11 May 2017.
  13. Web site: . Most climbs over 8,000 metres . 23 May 2023 . 2023-08-01.
  14. Web site: Reuters . Nepali Sherpa sets climbing record on Pakistan mountain . Gopal . Sharma . 21 July 2022 . 5 August 2022.
  15. Web site: LACrux . World record: Sanu Sherpa has climbed all 14 eight-thousanders twice. 28 July 2022 . 5 August 2022 .
  16. Web site: . 14 Peaks: All the records Nims Purja broke in new Netflix documentary . Sanj . Atwal . 3 December 2021 . 5 December 2021.
  17. Web site: Nirmal Purja: Ex-soldier climbs 14 highest mountains in six months . 29 October 2019 . 24 December 2019 . . A Nepali mountaineer and former British Marine has climbed the world's tallest 14 peaks in six months - beating an earlier record of almost eight years..
  18. Nepal climber makes history speed climbing world's tallest peaks . https://web.archive.org/web/20190524222617/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/adventure/2019/05/climber-record-summits-six-eight-thousand-meter-peaks-one-month/. dead. 24 May 2019. Freddie Wilkinson . . 24 December 2019 . On October 29th, Nirmal Purja Magar announced via Instagram that he had summited China's Shishapangma. This marked the fourteenth 8,000-meter peak he had climbed in seven months and the completion of an extraordinary project to speed climb the world's tallest mountains in rapid succession. .
  19. Web site: General Info. 8000ers.com . Eberhard Jurgalski .

    de:Eberhard Jurgalski

    . 2014-02-21.
  20. Web site: DAILY CHART: Stairway to heaven, how deadly are the world's highest mountains? . . 29 March 2013. For every three thrill-seekers that make it safely up and down Annapurna I, one dies trying, according to data from Eberhard Jurgalski of website 8000ers.com, collected in his forthcoming book "On Top of the World: The New Millennium", co-authored by Richard Sale..
  21. Web site: The Himalaya by the Numbers: A Statistical Analysis of Mountaineering in the Nepal Himalaya . Elizabeth Hawley . Elizabeth Hawley . Richard Sailsbury . 2011 . 129 . Table D-3: Deaths for peaks with more than 750 members above base camp from 1950–2009.
  22. News: Himalayan Death Tolls. The Washington Post. 24 April 2014.
  23. Web site: . Deadly Peaks . Martin . Armstrong . 10 December 2021 . 13 December 2021.
  24. Web site: . Deadliest mountain to climb . 2019 . 13 December 2021.
  25. Web site: MountainIQ . Eight Thousanders – The Complete 8000ers Guide. Mark . Whitman . 22 December 2020 . 13 December 2021 .
  26. https://www.peakbagger.com/list.aspx?lid=200 PeakBagger: World 8000–metre Peaks
  27. News: Mount Everest is two feet taller, China and Nepal announce. National Geographic. https://web.archive.org/web/20201208113343/https://www.nationalgeographic.com/science/2020/12/new-height-of-mount-everest-announced-by-china-and-nepal/. dead. 8 December 2020. 15 September 2021.
  28. News: K2 lies in Pakistan, near the northern border with China. BBC News. 26 July 2014 .
  29. Web site: Climbers banned from sacred peak. Luke. Harding. 13 July 2000. the Guardian. 29 March 2018.
  30. News: What is a summit: Only 44 people have reached the summit of all 14 of the world's 8,000-meter peaks, according to the people who chronicle such things. . John . Branch . 21 May 2021 . 10 December 2021 . . John Branch (journalist).
  31. Web site: The Himalayan Database, The Expedition Archives of Elizabeth Hawley. The Himalayan Database. Elizabeth Hawley. Elizabeth Hawley. Richard Salisbury. 2018.
  32. Web site: High Altitude Mountaineering statistics. AdventureStats.com. 2018.
  33. Web site: Climbers who have ascended to the summits of all of the world's 14 mountains over 8000 metres. 8000ers.com (Eberhard Jurgalski). 2018.
  34. Web site: Climbers – First 14 . Eberhard Jurgalski .

    de:Eberhard Jurgalski

    . 8000ers.com . 26 May 2012 . 2014-02-21.
  35. Carlos Carsolio required emergency oxygen on his descent from Makalu in 1988.
  36. Web site: EverestNews2004.com . News (age calculated: in 2004 Hong-Gil Um was 44) . Mr. Um Hong Gil has bagged his 15th 8000 meter peak . 2008-11-30 . https://web.archive.org/web/20090621213540/http://www.kukuxumusu.com/web/news_nove1.php?id=36&lang=eng . 2009-06-21 . dead .
  37. Web site: Kukuxumusu . Spanish News . Alberto Iñurrategi achieves his fourteenth "eight thousand meters" . 2008-11-30 . https://web.archive.org/web/20090621213540/http://www.kukuxumusu.com/web/news_nove1.php?id=36&lang=eng . 2009-06-21 . dead .
  38. Web site: Mounteverest.net . ...the American climber became one of only five men in the world to accomplish the quest entirely without supplementary oxygen. . Best of ExplorersWeb 2005 Awards: Ed Viesturs and Christian Kuntner . 2008-11-30 . https://web.archive.org/web/20081222000019/http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=1332 . 2008-12-22 . dead .
  39. Web site: Mounteverest.net . Last year, Silvio 'Gnaro' Mondinelli broke the haunted 13 when he summited the last peak on his list of 14, 8000ers – becoming only the 6th mountaineer in the world to have bagged them all without supplementary oxygen. . The wolf is back: Gnaro bags Baruntse . 2008-11-30 . https://web.archive.org/web/20081028140452/http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=17691 . 2008-10-28 . dead .
  40. Web site: PlanetMountain.com . 13/07 interview with Silvio Mondinelli after the summit of his 14th 8000m peak without supplementary oxygen. . The day after: Silvio Mondinelli, Broad Peak and all 14 8000m summits . 2008-11-30 .
  41. Web site: Mounteverest.net . Implied in text: ...Following Italian Silvio "Gnaro" Mondinelli last year and American Ed Viesturs in 2005, Ivan also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen. . The 14th knight: Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo is ready to continue . 2008-11-30 . https://web.archive.org/web/20080511145044/http://www.k2climb.net/news.php?id=17248 . 2008-05-11 . dead .
  42. Web site: Mounteverest.net . ...Ivan also became only the seventh mountaineer in the world to have done them all without supplementary oxygen. . The 14th knight: Ecuadorian Ivan Vallejo is ready to continue . 2008-11-30 . https://web.archive.org/web/20080511145044/http://www.k2climb.net/news.php?id=17248 . 2008-05-11 . dead .
  43. Web site: PlanetMountain.com . Denis Urubko, Cho Oyu and all 14 8000m peaks . 2009-05-18 .
  44. Web site: Ralf Dujmovits . Ralf-dujmovits.de . 2010-04-14 . https://web.archive.org/web/20100715141737/http://www.ralf-dujmovits.de/biografie.php . 2010-07-15 . dead .
  45. Web site: GI summits - Veikka Gustafsson completes the 14x8000ers list! . Explorersweb.com . 26 July 2022.
  46. Web site: Best of ExplorersWeb 2009 Awards: the 14x8000ers . Explorersweb.com . 26 July 2022.
  47. Web site: Summit 8000 – Andrew Lock's quest to climb all fourteen of the highest mountains in the world . Andrew-lock.com . 2010-04-14 . 5 March 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20160305033025/http://andrew-lock.com/summit-8000.shtml . dead .
  48. Web site: Australia's Most Accomplished Mountaineer . Andrew Lock . 2 October 2009 . 2010-04-14 . https://web.archive.org/web/20130707160749/http://andrew-lock.com/ . 7 July 2013 . dead .
  49. Web site: Piotr Pustelnik summits Annapurna – bags the 14x8000ers!. Explorersweb.com. 2014-02-21. 10 March 2016. https://web.archive.org/web/20160310233641/http://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=19295. dead.
  50. Web site: Shisha Pangma: Edurne Pasaban summits – completes the 14x800ers. Explorersweb.com. 2014-02-21. 18 April 2016. https://web.archive.org/web/20160418152401/http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=19361. dead.
  51. Web site: Abele Blanc summits Annapurna and all 8000ers. Planetmountain.com. 2014-02-21.
  52. Web site: Climbers - First 14, updated table on 8000ers.com. 8000ers.com. 2014-02-21.
  53. Web site: Everest – Mount Everest by climbers, news . Mounteverest.net . 18 May 2005 . 2014-01-21 . https://web.archive.org/web/20120708033006/http://www.mounteverest.net/story/ChristianKuntner-amountaineeringlegendisgoneMay182005.shtml . 8 July 2012 . dead .
  54. Web site: Mario Panzeri: sono in cima! E finalmente sono 14 ottomila. Montagna.tv. 2014-02-21. https://web.archive.org/web/20131102005649/http://www3.montagna.tv/cms/?p=40662. 2013-11-02. dead.
  55. Web site: 日本人初の快挙、8000m峰14座登頂 竹内洋岳. 26 May 2012 . Nikkei.com. 2014-02-21.
  56. Web site: Climbers – First 14 . 8000ers.com . 13 August 2014 . 2014-08-13.
  57. Nives Meroi and Romano Benet climbed all the Eight-thousanders together, it wasn't revealed if one of them climbed the last peak a few moments before the other, thus they share the same position
  58. News: Nives Meroi and Romano Benet summit Annapurna, their 14th 8000er. PlanetMountain.com. 2017-05-11. en.
  59. News: Nives Meroi in Roman Benet preplezala 14 osemtisočakov. Sta.si. 2017-05-11. sl.
  60. News: Slovenec s 15. osemtisočaka. Delo.si. 2017-05-11. sl.
  61. Web site: Pokoril všetky osemtisícovky . skrsi.rtvs.sk . 16 May 2017 . 2017-05-17.
  62. Web site: È vetta per Peter Hamor. Con il Dhaulagiri sono 14 anche per lui . it . www.montagna.tv . 15 May 2017 . 2021-12-28.
  63. Web site: HZDS flag flies from Everest summit . Tom Nicholson . spectator.sme.sk . 4 June 1998 . 2021-12-28.
  64. Web site: قیچی‌ساز حماسه ساز شد/کوهنورد تبریزی به هشت هزاری‌ها پیوست . yjc . 19 May 2017. 2017-05-19.
  65. Web site: Ferran Latorre completa los catorce ochomiles en el Everest. desnivel.com. 27 May 2017. 2017-05-27. es. 5 July 2017. https://web.archive.org/web/20170705061639/http://desnivel.com/expediciones/ferran-latorre-completa-los-catorce-ochomiles-en-el-everest. dead.
  66. Web site: Cadiach, camino del campo 3 tras coronar el Broad Peak. La Vanguardia. 27 July 2017. 2017-07-27. es.
  67. Web site: 김미곤 히말라야 14봉 등정 보고회 열려. Mountain Journal. 27 July 2018. 2019-11-26. ko.
  68. Web site: South Korean Climbs Nanga Parbat, Completes 8,000ers. Gripped. 12 July 2018. 2019-11-26.
  69. Web site: Sanu Sherpa becomes third Nepali to complete 14 peaks as Sergi Mingote scales 7 mountains in 444 days. The Himalayan Times. 3 October 2019. 2019-11-11.
  70. Web site: Nirmal Purja summits 5th eight-thousander in 12 days, ends 1st phase of 'Project Possible'. May 24, 2019. Dreamwanderlust.com.com. Dream Wanderlust. May 26, 2019.
  71. Web site: Reflections While Waiting for News from Shishapangma. Explorersweb.com. 29 October 2019. 2019-11-26.
  72. Web site: Nepalese Climber Summits World's 14 Highest Peaks in 6 Months, Smashing Record. NPR.
  73. Web site: South Korean missing after fall while scaling Pakistani peak . Munir Ahmed . Times Union . 20 July 2021 . 2021-07-20 . https://web.archive.org/web/20210720123713/https://www.timesunion.com/sports/article/South-Korean-missing-after-fall-while-scaling-16325874.php . 20 July 2021 . dead.
  74. Web site: Fingerless Korean goes missing after achieving the feat of climbing all 14 Himalayan peaks . The Korea Times . 20 July 2021 . 2021-07-20 .
  75. Web site: Kim Hong-bin: Without fingers on 13 eight-thousanders . Stefan Nestler . Adventure Mountain . 10 July 2019 . 2021-07-20.
  76. Web site: Nima Gyalzen Sherpa becomes the 6th Nepali in the 14 Peaks club . everestchronicle.com . 11 August 2022. 2022-08-18 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220811215622/https://everestchronicle.com/nima-gyalzen-sherpa-becomes-the-6th-nepali-in-the-14-peaks-club/ . 2022-08-11. dead.
  77. Web site: Nima Gyalzen completes 14 peaks as Grace Tseng, Kristin Harila scale G-I . thehimalayantimes.com . 11 August 2022 . 18 August 2022.
  78. Web site: Benavides . Angela . 2023-04-26 . Dong Hong Juan Climbs Shishapangma; May Be the First Woman to Summit all 14 8,000'ers » Explorersweb . 2023-05-04 . Explorersweb.
  79. Web site: 2023-05-01 . China's Dong becomes first woman to conquer all 14 peaks above-8,000m . 2023-06-04 . Chinadaily.com . en.
  80. News: Kristin Harila scales Mount Shishapangma . everestchronicle.com . 26 April 2023 . 2023-05-04.
  81. Web site: 2023-05-03 . Kristin Harila completes 14 peaks as she scales Cho Oyu . 2023-05-03 . The Himalayan Times . en.
  82. Web site: Sophie Lavaud, first French mountaineer to climb all the peaks over 8,000 m on the planet – Liberation . Time News . 26 June 2023 . 2023-06-28 .
  83. Web site: Sophie Lavaud becomes first French person to climb world's highest peaks . RFI . 26 June 2023 . 2023-06-28 .
  84. Web site: Benavides . Angela . 2023-06-26 . Nanga Parbat Summits » Explorersweb . 2023-06-28 . Explorersweb.
  85. Web site: 2023-06-26 . A 17-year-old Nepali teenager scales the 'Killer Mountain' . 2023-06-28 . Everest Chronicle.
  86. Web site: 2023-07-27 . Arnette . Alan . K2 2023 Coverage: Kristin Harila gets K2 for her Last 8000er . 2023-07-27 . alanarnette.com . en.
  87. Web site: 2023-07-27 . Kristin Harila, Tenjen Sherpa world's fastest to climb 14 peaks in 92 days . 2023-07-27 . The Himalayan Times . en.
  88. Web site: Seven Summit Treks Tenjen Sherpa (Lama) . 2023-07-30 . 28 July 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230728013647/https://www.sevensummittreks.com/team/field-staffs/tenjen-sherpa-lama . dead .
  89. Web site: 2023-07-27 . Gopal Sharma . Norwegian woman, Nepali sherpa become world's fastest to climb all 14 tallest peaks . 2023-07-28 . Reuters . en.
  90. Web site: Gelje Sherpa joins the 14 peak club with summit on Cho Oyu; Nima Rinji sets youngest climber record . everestchronicle.com . 6 October 2023. 2023-10-24.
  91. Web site: Nepali and Pakistani Climbers Make History on Cho Oyu . whatthenepal.com . 6 October 2023 . 2023-10-24.
  92. Web site: After K2 in Winter, Gelje Sherpa (28) aims to become the youngest to climb all 14 8Ks . Dream Wanderlust . DreamWanderlust.com . 30 March 2021 . 2023-11-02.
  93. Web site: This Climber Just Became the Second American to climb Every 8,000 Meter Peak . Outside. 22 September 2023. 20 March 2024 . Jake . Stern.
  94. Web site: 2024-07-30 . Camandona completa la collezione degli ottomila, "quasi un gioco" - Notizie - Ansa.it . 2024-07-30 . Agenzia ANSA . it.
  95. Web site: Annapurna . Kris . 2024-07-30 . More Summits on K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum II . 2024-08-01 . ExplorersWeb.
  96. If a mountaineer wants worldwide recognition that they have reached the summit of some of the most formidable mountains in the world, they will need to get the approval of Elizabeth Hawley.Web site: Elizabeth Hawley, unrivalled Himalayan record keeper. BBC News. 29 August 2010.
  97. Web site: Elizabeth Hawley, Who Chronicled Everest Treks, Dies at 94. The New York Times. 26 January 2018.
  98. Web site: Seasonal Stories for the Nepalese Himalaya 1985–2014. 274. Elizabeth Hawley. Elizabeth Hawley. 2014. The Himalayan Database. But a South Korean climber, who followed in their footprints on the crusted snow three days later [in 1997] in clearer weather, did not consider that they actually gained the top. While [Sergio] Martini and [Fausto] De Stefani indicated they were perhaps only a few meters below it, Park Young-Seok claimed that their footprints stopped well before the top, perhaps 30 meters below a small fore-summit and 150 vertical meters below the highest summit. Now in 2000 [Sergio] Martini was back again, and this time he definitely summited Lhotse..
  99. Web site: AdventureStats.net . Official records . Climbers that have summited 10 to 13 of the 14 Main-8000ers . 2008-11-30 .
  100. Web site: Seasonal Stories for the Nepalese Himalaya 1985–2014. 347. Elizabeth Hawley. Elizabeth Hawley. The Himalayan Database. 2014. But his claim to have now climbed all 8000ers is open to question. In April 1990 he and others reached the summit plateau of Cho Oyu. It was misty so they could not see well; nine years later Hinkes said he had “wandered around for a while” in the summit area but could see very little and eventually descended to join the others, one of whom said they had not reached the top..
  101. Web site: Vladislav Terz. www.russianclimb.com. 2016-04-28.
  102. Web site: AdventureStats – by Explorersweb. www.adventurestats.com. 2016-04-28.
  103. Web site: Russianclimb.com . Mountaineering World of Russia & CIS . Vladislav Terzyul, List of ascents . 2009-10-06 .
  104. Web site: Sad results on Makalu and Unanswered Questions: 1 missing climber and 1 passed away on Makalu . Everestnews2004.com . 2014-02-21 . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20120512112330/http://www.everestnews2004.com/everestnews4/missingonmaklau2004.htm . 12 May 2012 .
  105. Web site: Everest K2 News ExplorersWeb – More dark clouds mounting on Anna summit push; Miss Oh's Kanchen summit "disputed" after renewed accusations . Explorersweb.com . 26 April 2010 . 2014-01-21 . 15 March 2012 . https://web.archive.org/web/20120315125813/http://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=19284 . dead .
  106. News: New doubts over Korean Oh Eun-Sun's climbing record, Hawley to investigate . BBC News . 27 August 2010.
  107. What would appear to be the most serious blow to Miss Oh, on 26 August this year the Korean Alpine Federation, the nation's largest climbing association, concluded that Miss Oh had not reached the top of Kangchenjunga.Web site: Seasonal Stories for the Nepalese Himalaya 1985–2014. 394. . 2014.
  108. Web site: Desnivel; Carlos Pauner consigue la cima del Everest . Desnivel.com . 2014-01-21 . 23 October 2015 . https://web.archive.org/web/20151023003023/http://desnivel.com/expediciones/carlos-pauner-consigue-la-cima-del-everest . dead .
  109. Web site: Carlos Pauner is not sure if they hit the top of the Shisha Pangma (8,027). lainformacion.com. 18 February 2016. 31 May 2018. 21 September 2018. https://web.archive.org/web/20180921225955/https://www.lainformacion.com/deporte/alpinismo-montanismo/carlos-pauner-no-tiene-claro-si-hollaron-la-cima-del-shisha-pangma-8-027_RtasCrUfYbQZ3CoKnrTlJ3/. dead.
  110. Web site: CCTV; 罗静等23名中国登山者登顶希夏邦马峰 . CCTV . 29 September 2018 . 2019-06-05.
  111. Web site: The Himalayan Times; Four Chinese climbers complete all 14 peaks above 8,000m this autumn . The Himalayan Times . 29 September 2018 . 2019-06-05.
  112. Web site: Luo Jing no alcanzó la cima principal del Shisha Pangma . es . Luo Jing did not reach the main peak of the Shishapangma . Desnivel.com . 4 October 2018 . 2020-09-25.
  113. I have summited Cho Oyu 4 times and will be heading for my fifth this coming season. Each time I have watched the Koreans and Japanese go only to where they can see Everest, not the summit because they know this is what will be asked.Web site: Cho Oyu summit: Where is it exactly. Explorersweb.com. September 2017.
  114. Many people who climb Cho Oyu in Tibet stop at a set of prayer flags with views of Everest and believe they’ve reached the top, unaware they still have to walk for 15 minutes across the summit plateau until they can see the Gokyo Lakes in Nepal.Web site: When is a summit not a summit?. Mark Horrell. 12 November 2014.
  115. Web site: Asia, Tibet, Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma Central (West) Summit. American Alpine Journal. 1991.
  116. Book: Keeper of the Mountains: The Elizabeth Hawley Story. 185–195. Rocky Mountain Books. 5 October 2012. 978-1927330159.
  117. . June 2021 . Damien . Gildea . THE 8000-ER MESS . 10 December 2021 . 62 . 94 . Damien Gildea.
  118. Web site: . Researchers challenge historical records for 8000-meter peaks . 20 July 2022 . 3 August 2022 . Derek . Franz.
  119. Web site: The new peaks opened as alternatives to Mount Everest. https://ghostarchive.org/archive/20220111/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/asia/mounteverest/10260776/The-new-peaks-opened-as-alternatives-to-Mount-Everest.html . 11 January 2022 . subscription . live. The Daily Telegraph. Richard Gray. 23 August 2013. Nepal.
  120. Web site: Nepal mountain peak expansion bid stalls. BBC News. Navin Singh Khadka. 18 October 2013.
  121. Web site: A funny name for a mountain. Mark Horrell. 4 June 2014.
  122. Web site: Do we really need more 8000m peaks. Mark Horrell. 23 October 2013. The most prominent one, Broad Peak Central is just 196m high and the least prominent, Lhotse Middle, is a meagre 60m. To put this in context, the highest mountain in Malta is 253m, while the Eiffel Tower stands a whopping 300m..
  123. Web site: UIAA Mountain Classification: 4,000ERS OF THE ALPS. March 1994. UIAA. Topographic criterium: for each summit, the level difference between it and the highest adjacent pass or notch should be at least (calculated as average of the summits at the limit of acceptability). An additional criterium can be the horizontal distance between a summit and the base of another adjacent 4000er.. 23 November 2018. 9 September 2020. https://web.archive.org/web/20200909020135/https://www.theuiaa.org/mountaineering/mountain-classification/. dead.
  124. Web site: Subsidiary Peaks. 8000ers.com. Eberhard Jurgalski.

    de:Eberhard Jurgalski

    . 23 November 2018. There are several different subsidiary peaks! Here are the geographical facts, from the one "relative independent Main-Peak" (EU category B) over the important subsidiary peaks (C) to the major notable points (D1) Especially the last category is just guessed by contours or from photographs..
  125. Web site: Dominance. 8000ers.com. Eberhard Jurgalski.

    de:Eberhard Jurgalski

    . 23 November 2018. Accordingly, the author introduced altitude classes (AC) and a proportional prominence, which he named orometrical dominance (D). D is calculated easily but fittingly: (P/Alt) x 100. Thus, it indicates the percentage of independence for every elevation, no matter what the altitude, prominence or mountain type it is. From a scientific point of view, altitude could be seen as the thesis, prominence as the antithesis, whereas dominance would be the synthesis..