Dreamtime (climb) explained

Dreamtime
Map:Switzerland
Map Width:280
Location:Ticino, Switzerland
Climbing Area:Cresciano[1]
Coords Ref:[2]
Route Type:Bouldering
Vertical Gain: (length)
Grade: (pre hold-break); (post hold-break)
First Ascent:Fred Nicole, 28 October 2000

Dreamtime is a 10adj=onNaNadj=on long bouldering route, on the boulder of the same name, in the gneiss bouldering area of Cresciano, Switzerland. When first solved in October 2000 by Swiss bouldering pioneer Fred Nicole, it was graded at, making it the world's first-ever boulder route at that grade. With subsequent repeat ascents, it was regraded to, but after the breaking of a key hold in 2009, its grade is now considered closer to again. Dreamtime is one of the most notable bouldering routes in climbing history, along with Midnight Lightning, and is renowned for its beauty and challenge.

History

In early 2000, Swiss bouldering pioneer Fred Nicole began projecting the boulder Dreamtime in the gneiss bouldering area of Cresciano,[1] envisaging a 10adj=onNaNadj=on long right-to-left diagonal route from a sit-start that took about 21 movements. After traveling to Australia and then to South Africa, Nicole returned to the route in the autumn and solved it on 28 October 2000. Nicole felt it was his hardest-ever route and proposed a grade of, which was the first-ever boulder route at that grade. Nicole recounted:

In 2001, Austrian climber made the first repeat and agreed with the grading. In 2002, American climber Dave Graham made the third ascent but used a heel hook that he felt lowered the grade to . The following year, American climber Chris Sharma made the fourth ascent, and using Graham's new beta agreed with Graham's grading. There was concern that holds were "overcleaned" (or even chipped) since Zangerl's ascent, which might have contributed to the lowering of the grade. In 2003, the situation was further complicated when Christian Core made the fifth ascent, said it was his hardest-ever boulder, and supported V15. Over the next five years, Dreamtime became one of the most desirable routes for leading climbers and repeats by Dai Koyamada, Nalle Hukkataival, Daniel Woods, Kilian Fischhuber and Adam Ondra (who was only 15 and solved it in 4 hours), led to a consensus grade of .[3]

In November 2009, Italian climber discovered that the crux pinch hold had broken off, thus changing the route.[4] In December 2009, Nalle Hukkataival repeated the damaged route and logged on the climbing database, 8a.nu, that the "standing start" version was now, and that Nicole's "sit start" version was "a real 8C now". Repeating the route a few days later, Ondra felt it was a "hard 8B+", but not 8C. With further repeats, consensus graded it closer to 8C, with Jan Hojer saying in 2013, "Much harder than any 8B+ [V14] I have ever tried".[5]

The Story of Two Worlds

In June 2005, Dave Graham created The Story of Two Worlds on the other side of the Dreamtime boulder, proposing a grade of .[6] After the heated debates on Dreamtime, Graham wanted to create a route that would be the "new standard for 8C".[6] [7] The 21-move route is a sit-start that links up with Toni Lamprecht's The Dagger, which is graded as . In 2010, Dai Koyamada made the first repeat but confusion over the start position led Dai to return in 2012 and make another repeat but from a much lower position than Graham, creating The Story of Two Worlds Low Start, and at .[8]

With subsequent repeats by Paul Robinson, Jernej Kruder, and others, there was a consensus that the grade was at .[9] The Story of Two Worlds became the first boulder to have a "consensus" grade of,[6] although the actual first-ever at the grade is now regarded as Nicole's Monkey Wedding and Black Eagle SDS,[10] both solved in 2002 on a trip to Rocklands, South Africa.[3]

The Story of Two Worlds itself became subject to downgrade speculation, particularly with the development of kneepads that can be used for extended knee bar rests; Graham himself told Climbing in 2017 that the route "might be V14 now".[7] Further repeats by some leading climbers such as Alex Megos have upheld the grade of, with Megos saying after his ascent of TSOTW in 2020, "I'd say 8C is about right".[11]

Variations

In February 2023, German climber Yannick Flohé created a direct finish that starts with Dreamtime, but at the crux, he goes right and directly up the boulder, following the line of Jimmy Webb's Somnolence . He named this variation Return of the Dreamtime and proposed a grade of .[12] [13]

Legacy

In a 2009 article on Dreamtime, PlanetMountain said: "So beautiful and important, the Dreamtime immediately did as its name suggests, it made everyone dream and, in doing so, it became a reference point for cutting-edge problems, one of the most famous boulders in the world, second perhaps only to Midnight Lightning, freed by Ron Kauk in 1978 at Camp Four in Yosemite".[4] Others have also labeled Dreamtime as being the world's most famous boulder route, often along with Midnight Lightning, and credited it for promoting the development of the sport.[14]

In 2015, Climbing listed Dreamtime and The Story of Two Worlds in their "Climb of the Century" for the bouldering category, saying: "In 2000, Fred Nicole gave the world its first 8C (V15) boulder with Dreamtime—arguably the first internationally famous boulder problem since Midnight Lightning. The Story of Two Worlds (Dave Graham, 2005), on the same boulder, became the new standard for V15 after Dreamtime was broken and downgraded."[15]

In a later 2017 piece, PlanetMountain said: "But the one that more than any other captured the imagination of climbers at the beginning of the new millennium was most certainly Dreamtime". Repeating Dreamtime is considered a rite-of-passage for major boulder climbers.[14] In 2017, Outside listed the ascent of Dreamtime in its "12 Great Moments in Bouldering History".[3] In 2020, when German climber Alex Megos repeated Dreamtime, he wrote on his Instagram page: "This one has definitely been on the bucket list! DREAMTIME. Possibly the most famous boulder problem in the world!".

Ascents

Dreamtime has been ascended by (and their proposed grade):[16]

Pre-hold break

Post-hold break

Other notable post-break:

See also

Further reading

External links

Notes and References

  1. Web site: PlanetMountain . Cresciano . 3 July 2024 .
  2. Web site: theCrag . Dreamtime . 2024 . 7 June 2024 . 7 June 2024 . https://web.archive.org/web/20240607092527/https://www.thecrag.com/392120331 . live .
  3. Web site: . 12 Great Moments in Bouldering History . Matt . Cote . 28 September 2017 . 1 July 2022 . 24 November 2022 . https://web.archive.org/web/20221124205818/https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/12-great-moments-bouldering-history/ . live .
  4. Web site: PlanetMountain . 11 August 2023 . Dreamtime, a dream which vanished for a second only . 16 November 2009 . 9 July 2024 . https://web.archive.org/web/20240709060709/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/dreamtime-a-dream-which-vanished-for-a-second-only.html . live .
  5. Web site: Dreamtime 8C (B+) by Jan Hojer . Jens . Larssen . 18 February 2013 . 9 June 2024 . [From Hojer] The perfect boulder! Did the dyno method because I can't even imagine to hold these crimps! Much harder than any 8B+ I have ever tried. . 8a.nu . 9 June 2024 . https://web.archive.org/web/20240609172106/https://www.8a.nu/news/dreamtime-8c-b+-by-jan-hojer . live .
  6. Web site: . Graham's hardest yet . Dougald . McDonald . 24 January 2005 . 12 August 2023 . Throwing down the gauntlet, Graham added, "I think this is the hardest bloc (boulder) yet, and I think it can change the malprogression we can see when we are seeing millions of 8b+ and 8c blocs climbed everywhere. Now it's just about comparison." . 7 July 2022 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220707033504/https://www.climbing.com/news/grahamrsquos-hardest-yet/#_pay-wall . live .
  7. Web site: . Inflating Grades and Egos: A Climbing Difficulty Discussion . James . Lucas . 9 February 2017 . 12 August 2023 . Dave Graham suggested that The Story of Two Worlds, a problem he put up in Cresciano, be the benchmark for V15 . 10 September 2017 . https://web.archive.org/web/20170910145822/https://www.climbing.com/people/inflating-grades-and-egos-a-climbing-difficulty-discussion/#_pay-wall . live .
  8. Web site: PlanetMountain . Dai Koyamada and The Story of Two Worlds at Cresciano . 25 June 2012 . 12 August 2023 . 9 July 2024 . https://web.archive.org/web/20240709060709/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/dai-koyamada-and-the-story-of-two-worlds-at-cresciano.html . live .
  9. Web site: . Traversi Climbs The Story of Two Worlds (V15) . Amanda . Fox . 26 March 2023 . 12 August 2023 . 25 October 2021 . https://web.archive.org/web/20211025103909/https://www.climbing.com/news/traversi-climbs-the-story-of-two-worlds-v15/ . live .
  10. Web site: PlanetMountain.com . The evolution of free climbing . 23 December 2012 . Maurizio . Oviglia . 4 January 2022 . 4 January 2022 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220104131608/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/the-evolution-of-free-climbing.html . live .
  11. Web site: Gripped Magazine . Alex Megos Sends Story of Two Worlds V15: And talks about the ethics behind using knee pads on hard climbs . 26 December 2020 . 12 August 2023 . 12 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230812150037/https://gripped.com/news/alex-megos-sends-story-of-two-worlds-v15/ . live .
  12. Web site: Gripped Magazine . Famous Boulder Problem Gets New V16 Exit: 23 years after Dreamtime was climbed, a new direct exit was added . 23 February 2023 . 12 August 2023 . Aaron . Pardy . 12 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230812194823/https://gripped.com/news/famous-boulder-problem-gets-new-v16-exit/ . live .
  13. Web site: PlanetMountain . Yannick Flohé powers up Return of the Dreamtime, new 8C+ at Cresciano . 2 February 2023 . 12 August 2023 . 12 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230812195050/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/yannick-flohe-powers-up-return-of-the-dreamtime-cresciano.html . live .
  14. Web site: Klettermagazin . Climbing Desk . The Classics - Dreamtime in Cresciano:Der grösste Paukenschlag seit Midnight Lightning: Fred Nicoles Dreamtime in Cresciano war nicht nur die erste 8C, sondern die Initialzündung für den Boulderboom im Tessin und weltweit . 2020 . 12 August 2023 . The Classics - Dreamtime in Cresciano: The biggest bang since Midnight Lightning: Fred Nicole's Dreamtime in Cresciano was not only the first 8C, but the initial spark for the bouldering boom in Ticino and worldwide . de . 12 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230812161556/https://kletterszene.com/stories/the-classics-dreamtime-in-cresciano/ . live .
  15. Web site: . Dougald . McDonald . Climb of the Century? 7 Groundbreaking Ascents (Besides the Dawn Wall) . 2 February 2015 . 12 August 2023 . In 2000, Fred Nicole gave the world its first 8c (V15) boulder with Dreamtime—arguably the first internationally famous boulder problem since Midnight Lightning. The Story of Two Worlds (Dave Graham, 2005), on the same boulder, became the new standard for V15 after Dreamtime was broken and downgraded. And, yes, we're aware that 2000 actually was the final year of the 20th century . 8 November 2020 . https://web.archive.org/web/20201108121619/https://www.climbing.com/news/climb-of-the-century/#_pay-wall . live .
  16. Web site: Klettermagazin . Broken grip in "Dreamtime" . Griffausbruch in "Dreamtime" . 14 November 2019 . 11 August 2023 . de . 11 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230811154620/https://kletterszene.com/news/griffausbruch-in-dreamtime-tessin/ . live .
  17. Web site: PlanetMountain . 11 August 2023 . Fred Nicole sends Dreamtime 8c at Cresciano, Switzerland . Roberto . Fioravanti . 24 November 2000 . 11 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230811202224/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/fred-nicole-sends-dreamtime-8c-at-cresciano-switzerland.html . live .
  18. Web site: Gripped Magazine . Fred Nicole Talks Dreamtime, First V15 Ever . 8 July 2017 . 11 August 2023 . Aaron . Pardy . 11 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230811205309/https://gripped.com/profiles/fred-nicole-talks-dreamtime-first-v15-ever/ . live .
  19. Web site: PlanetMountain . 11 August 2023 . Bernd Zangerl and Dreamtime at Cresciano . Beat . Kammerlander . 15 June 2001 . 11 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230811155147/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/bernd-zangerl-and-dreamtime-at-cresciano.html . live .
  20. Web site: . Dave Graham repite Dreamtime . Dave Graham repeats Dreamtime . 31 January 2002 . 11 August 2023 . es . 11 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230811155537/https://www.desnivel.com/bulder/bulder-escaladores/dave-graham-repite-dreamtime/ . live .
  21. Web site: . Chris Sharma repite Dreamtime . Chris Sharma repeats Dreamtime . 6 November 2002 . 11 August 2023 . es . 11 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230811154811/https://www.desnivel.com/bulder/chris-sharma-repite-dreamtime/ . live .
  22. Web site: PlanetMountain . 11 August 2023 . Christian Core and Dreamtime at Cresciano . Vinicio . Stefanello . 14 March 2003 . 11 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230811155915/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/christian-core-and-dreamtime-at-cresciano.html . live .
  23. Web site: . Malcom Smith repite Dreamtime… . Malcolm Smith repeats Dreamtime... . 11 February 2004 . 11 August 2023 . es . 11 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230811160443/https://www.desnivel.com/bulder/bulder-escaladores/malcom-smith-repite-dreamtime/ . live .
  24. Web site: PlanetMountain . 11 August 2023 . Ben Moon, Tyler Landman and Andy Earl bouldering hard . 12 December 2006 . 11 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230811203742/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/ben-moon-tyler-landman-and-andy-earl-bouldering-hard.html . live .
  25. Web site: PlanetMountain . 11 August 2023 . Dreamtime repeats by Kilian Fischhuber and Jon Cardwell . 5 January 2008 . 11 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230811204537/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/dreamtime-repeats.html . live .
  26. Web site: UKClimbing . Ondra - Dreamtime V14 - Aged 15 - With Video . Jack . Geldhard . 25 March 2008 . 11 August 2023 . 11 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230811201944/https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2008/03/ondra_-_dreamtime_v14_-_aged_15_-_with_video-43188 . live .
  27. Web site: 8a.nu . Dreamtime standing, 8B etc by Nalle Hukkataival . Jens . Larssen . 12 December 2009 . 12 August 2023 . 12 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230812124207/https://www.8a.nu/news/dreamtime-standing-8b-etc-by-nalle-hukkataival . live .
  28. Web site: UKClimbing . Dreamtime 8C again after all? . Bjorn . Pohl . 24 March 2010 . 12 August 2023 . 12 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230812022538/https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/03/dreamtime_8c_again_after_all-54503 . live .
  29. Web site: UKClimbing . Dreamtime for Robinson . Bjorn . Pohl . 25 November 2010 . 12 August 2023 . 12 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230812015434/https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2010/11/dreamtime_for_robinson-59079 . live .
  30. Web site: . Hojer Sends Dreamtime (V15) . 11 August 2023 . 2010 . 11 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230811113421/https://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/hojer-sends-dreamtime-v15/ . live .
  31. Web site: . Fabian Buhl repite 'Dreamtime' y Daniel Woods 'The bridge of ashes', ambos 8C . Fabian Buhl repeats 'Dreamtime' and Daniel Woods 'The bridge of ashes', both 8C . 20 March 2013 . 12 August 2023 . es . 12 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230812020109/https://www.desnivel.com/bulder/fabian-buhl-repite-dreamtime-y-daniel-woods-the-bridge-of-ashes-ambos-8c/ . live .
  32. Web site: PlanetMountain . 11 August 2023 . Giuliano Cameroni repeats Dreamtime at Cresiano . 8 January 2015 . 12 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230812020407/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/giuliano-cameroni-repeats-dreamtime-at-cresciano.html . live .
  33. Web site: Gripped Magazine . Jimmy Webb Sends Dreamtime V15 in Switzerland . 12 February 2018 . 12 August 2023 . 12 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230812160509/https://gripped.com/routes/jimmy-webb-sends-dreamtime-v15-switzerland/ . live .
  34. Web site: LACrux . Jimmy Webb boulders Fred Nicole classic Dreamtime . 15 February 2018 . 12 August 2023 . 12 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230812160512/https://www.lacrux.com/en/bouldern/jimmy-webb-boulders-fred-nicole-classic-dreamtime/ . live .
  35. Web site: 8a.nu . Dreamtime 8B+ (C) by Jakob Schubert . February 2018 . 12 August 2023 . Jens . Larssen . 12 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230812155843/https://www.8a.nu/news/dreamtime-8b+-c-by-jakob-schubert . live .
  36. Web site: . Stephen . Potter . Simon Lorenzi Establishes Another V16 Low Start to Fontainebleau's Classic The Island. . 1 February 2022 . 2 March 2024 . 9 July 2024 . https://web.archive.org/web/20240709060710/https://www.climbing.com/news/simon-lorenzi-burden-of-dreams/ . live .
  37. Web site: PlanetMountain . Jernej Kruder climbs childhood dream, Dreamtime at Cresciano . 21 November 2019 . 12 August 2023 . 12 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230812163411/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/jernej-kruder-climbs-childhood-dream-dreamtime-cresciano.html . live .
  38. Web site: Gripped Magazine . Watch Alex Megos Send Dreamtime V15 and Two Worlds V15 . 30 December 2020 . 11 August 2023 . Aaron . Pardy . 12 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230812130851/https://gripped.com/video/watch-alex-megos-send-dreamtime-v15-and-two-worlds-v15/ . live .
  39. Web site: PlanetMountain . 11 August 2023 . Alex Megos at Cresciano sends Dreamtime, Story of Two Worlds, The Dagger . 30 December 2020 . 11 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230811203223/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/alex-megos-at-cresciano-sends-dreamtime-story-of-two-worlds-the-dagger.html . live .
  40. Web site: LACrux . 28 December 2020 . Alexander Megos climbs the Ticino classic Dreamtime and The Story of two Worlds . 12 August 2023 . It was on his to-do list for a long time, probably the most famous boulder in the world: Dreamtime in Cresciano. . 12 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230812162054/https://www.lacrux.com/en/bouldern/alexander-megos-climbs-ticino-classic-dreamtime-and-the-story-of-two-worlds/ . live .
  41. Web site: Climbr . Dreamtime and Dagger: More Swiss blocs for Will Bosi including Font 8B/+ flash . 10 December 2022 . 12 August 2023 . 12 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230812191913/https://www.climber.co.uk/news/more-swiss-blocs-for-will-bosi-including-font-8b-flash/ . live .
  42. Web site: PlanetMountain . Will Bosi flashes The Dagger and dispatches Dreamtime in a day . 8 December 2022 . 12 August 2023 . 12 August 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230812191913/https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/will-bosi-flashes-the-dagger-climbs-dreamtime-in-a-day.html#:~:text=On%20Tuesday%206%20December%202022%20at%20Cresciano%20in%20Switzerland%20William,problems%2C%20The%20Dagger%20and%20Dreamtime. . live .

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