Dülfersitz Explained

The Dülfersitz (named after mountaineer Hans Dülfer who had developed a different but related technique[1] [2]), also known as body rappel is a classical, or non-mechanical abseiling technique, used in rock climbing and mountaineering. It is not used frequently any more, since the introduction of belay devices. In the Dülfersitz, the rope is wound around the body, and the speed of descent is controlled using the friction of the rope against the body.

The advantages of the Dülfersitz are that one can descend without a climbing harness or belay device, and because the rope is not kinked or subjected to concentrated forces, it does not experience as much wear. The major disadvantage of this method is that intense heat is generated by the friction on the shoulder, neck and thigh, which can be painful, and can damage clothing.

Technique

Although the Dülfersitz is an effective method of abseiling when practised correctly, it is less safe than some modern methods: if the braking hand releases the rope (due to panic, impact from a falling stone, or cramp), a fall is unavoidable if no additional means of security, such as prusik cords, is used.[3]

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Body abseil history. www.CavingUK.co.uk. 2024-01-23.
  2. Book: Royal Geographical Society. Mountaineers. 2011. Dorling Kindersley Ltd. 9781409383314. 42. 25 April 2015.
  3. Günter Sturm/Fritz Zintl: Alpin-Lehrplan 2, Felsklettern, BLV München, Bern, Wien 1979,, S. 64 f.