County Fermanagh Explained

County Fermanagh should not be confused with Fermanagh.

County Fermanagh
Native Name:
Coontie Fermanay (Ulster-Scots)
Nickname:The Lakeland County
Motto:Feor Magh Eanagh (Irish)
"the Country of the Lakes"
Area Total Km2:1851
Area Land Km2:1691
Unit Pref:Imperial
Elevation Max M:665
Utc Offset:±0
Utc Offset Dst:+1
Established Title:Established
Established Date:1584/85
Population:63585
Population Rank:29th[1]
Population As Of:2021
Footnotes:Contae Fhear Manach is the Irish name; Countie Fermanagh,[2] Coontie Fermanagh[3] and Coontie Fermanay[4] are Ulster Scots spellings (the latter used only by Dungannon & South Tyrone Borough Council).
Area Code:028

County Fermanagh (;) is one of the thirty-two counties of Ireland, one of the nine counties of Ulster and one of six counties of Northern Ireland.

The county covers an area of 1691km2 and had a population of 63,585 as of 2021.[5] [6] Enniskillen is the county town and largest in both size and population.

Fermanagh is one of four counties of Northern Ireland to have a majority of its population from a Catholic background, according to the 2011 census.[1]

Geography

Fermanagh spans an area of 1,851 km2 (715 sq; mi), accounting for 13.2% of the landmass of Northern Ireland. Nearly a third of the county is covered by lakes and waterways, including Upper and Lower Lough Erne and the River Erne. Forests cover 14% of the landmass (42,000 hectares).[7] It is the only county in Northern Ireland that does not border Lough Neagh.

The county has three prominent upland areas:

The county borders:

Fermanagh is by far the least populous of Northern Ireland's six counties, with just over one-third the population of Tyrone, the next least populous county.

It is approximately 120km (80miles) from Belfast and 160km (100miles) from Dublin. The county town, Enniskillen, is the largest settlement in Fermanagh, situated in the middle of the county.

The county enjoys a temperate oceanic climate (Cfb) with cool winters, mild humid summers, and a lack of temperature extremes, according to the Köppen climate classification.

The National Trust for Places of Historic Interest or Natural Beauty manages three sites of historic and natural beauty in the county: Crom Estate, Florence Court, and Castle Coole.

Geology

The oldest sediments in the county are found north of Lough Erne. These so-called red beds were formed approximately 550 million years ago. Extensive sandstone can be found in the eastern part of the county, laid down during the Devonian, 400 million years ago. Much of the rest of the county's sediments are shale and limestone dating from the Carboniferous, 354 to 298 million years ago. These softer sediments have produced extensive cave systems such as the Shannon Cave, the Marble Arch Caves and the Caves of the Tullybrack and Belmore hills. The carboniferous shale exists in several counties of northwest Ireland, an area known colloquially as the Lough Allen basin. The basin is estimated to contain 9.4 trillion cubic metres of natural gas, equivalent to 1.5 billion barrels of oil.[8]

The county is situated over a sequence of prominent faults, primarily the Killadeas – Seskinore Fault, the Tempo – Sixmilecross Fault, the Belcoo Fault and the Clogher Valley Fault which cross-cuts Lough Erne.

History

The Menapii are the only known Celtic tribe specifically named on Ptolemy's 150 AD map of Ireland, where they located their first colony—Menapia—on the Leinster coast . They later settled around Lough Erne, becoming known as the Fir Manach, and giving their name to Fermanagh and Monaghan. Mongán mac Fiachnai, a 7th-century King of Ulster, is the protagonist of several legends linking him with Manannán mac Lir. They spread across Ireland, evolving into historic Irish (also Scottish and Manx) clans.

The Annals of Ulster which cover medieval Ireland between AD 431 to AD 1540 were written at Belle Isle on Lough Erne near Lisbellaw.

In the early 9th century, the Erne was considered to be the boundary of Connacht and Ulster, specifically the over-kingdom of Airgíalla. The Fir Manach proper, Tirkennedy and Magherastephana, along with Clankelly were part of the western Airgíalla group-kingdom of Uí Creamthainn with its seat at Clogher, whereas Lurg was associated with the northern Airgíalla branch of Uí Fiachrach centred at Ardstraw.

Fermanagh was a stronghold of the Maguire clan and Donn Carrach Maguire (died 1302) was the first of the chiefs of the Maguire dynasty. However, on the confiscation of lands relating to Hugh Maguire, Fermanagh was divided in a similar manner to the other five escheated counties among Scottish and English undertakers and native Irish. The baronies of Knockninny and Magheraboy were allotted to Scottish undertakers, those of Clankelly, Magherastephana and Lurg to English undertakers and those of Clanawley, Coole, and Tyrkennedy, to servitors and natives. The chief families to benefit under the new settlement were the families of Cole, Blennerhasset, Butler, Hume, and Dunbar.

Fermanagh was made into a county by a statute of Elizabeth I, but it was not until the time of the Plantation of Ulster that it was finally brought under civil government.

The closure of all the lines of Great Northern Railway (Ireland) within County Fermanagh in 1957 left the county as the first non-island county in the UK without a railway service.

Administration

The county was administered by Fermanagh County Council from 1899 until the abolition of county councils in Northern Ireland in 1973.[9] With the creation of Northern Ireland's district councils, Fermanagh District Council became the only one of the 26 that contained all of the county from which it derived its name. After the re-organisation of local government in 2015, Fermanagh was still the only county wholly within one council area, namely Fermanagh and Omagh District Council, albeit that it constituted only a part of that entity.

For the purposes of elections to the UK Parliament, the territory of Fermanagh is part of the Fermanagh and South Tyrone Parliamentary Constituency. This constituency elected Provisional IRA hunger-striker Bobby Sands as a member of parliament in the April 1981 Fermanagh and South Tyrone by-election, shortly before his death.

Demographics

2011 census

On Census Day 27 March 2011, the usually resident population of Fermanagh Local Government District, the borders of the district were very similar to those of the traditional County Fermanagh, was 61,805. Of these:[10]

2021 Census

On Census Day (2021), the usually resident population of Fermanagh Local Government District, the borders of the district were very similar to those of the traditional County Fermanagh, was 63,585. Of these:[11]

Community background and religion

Religion or religion brought up in (2021 Census)!Religion or religion brought up in!Number!(%)
Catholic37,39958.8
Protestant and Other Christian22,55935.5
None (no religion)2,9474.6
Other6801.1
Total63,585100.0
Religion (2021 Census)!Religion!Number!(%)
Christian55,89287.9
Catholic35,41255.7
Church of Ireland13,06520.5
Methodist2,5524.0
Presbyterian1,9893.1
Other Christian (including Christian related)2,8744.5
Protestant and Other Christian: Total20,48032.2
Other6010.9
Islam2160.3
Hinduism500.08
Other religions3350.5
None/not stated7,09211.2
No religion5,8859.3
Religion not stated 1,2071.9
Total 63,585100.0

Ethnicity

Ethnic group (2021 Census)!Ethnic group!Number!(%)
White

Total

62,58398.4
White: British/Irish/Northern Irish/English/Scottish/Welsh
(with or without non-UK or Irish national identities)
60,24494.7
White: Other2,1993.5
White: Irish Traveller1350.2
White: Roma40.006
Other ethnic groups: Total1,0021.6
Asian or Asian British5010.8
Black or Black British1220.2
Mixed3040.5
Other: Any other ethnic group750.1
Total63,585100.0

Country of birth

Country of birth, 2021 Census!Country of birth!Number!(%)
United Kingdom and Ireland60,43395.0
Northern Ireland52,06381.9
England3,4775.5
Scotland4200.7
Wales980.2
Republic of Ireland4,3756.9
Europe2,1393.4
European Union2,0473.2
Other non-EU countries920.2
Rest of World1,0131.6
Middle East and Asia4680.7
North America, Central America and Caribbean2430.4
Africa1870.3
Antarctica, Oceania and Other850.1
South America300.05
Total63,585100.0

Main languages

Main languages of all usual residents over the age of 3 (2021 Census)!Main language!Usual residents aged 3+!(%)
English59,08196.4
Polish6491.1
Lithuanian3890.6
Bulgarian2000.3
Irish1380.2
Latvian1150.2
All other languages7451.2
Total (usual residents aged 3+)61,316100.0

Knowledge of Irish

Ability in Irish of all usual residents over the age of 3 (2021 Census)!Ability in Irish!Number!(%)
Speaks, reads, writes and understands Irish2,7034.4
Speaks and reads but does not write Irish5090.8
Speaks but does not read or write Irish2,3363.8
Understands but does not read, write or speak Irish3,1145.1
Other combination of skills9291.5
Has some knowledge of Irish: Total9,59115.6
No ability in Irish51,72584.4
Total (usual residents aged 3+)61,316100.0

Knowledge of Ulster Scots

Ability in Ulster Scots of all usual residents over the age of 3 (2021 Census)!Ability in Ulster Scots!Number!(%)
Speaks, reads, writes and understands Ulster Scots4900.8
Speaks and reads but does not write Ulster Scots3190.5
Speaks but does not read or write Ulster Scots1,1941.9
Understands but does not read, write or speak Ulster Scots2,4684.0
Other combination of skills3950.6
Has some knowledge of Ulster Scots: Total4,8667.9
No ability in Ulster Scots56,45092.1
Total (usual residents aged 3+)61,316100.0

National identity

National identity (2021 Census)[12] [13] [14] [15] !National identity!Number!%
Irish only24,34138.3%
British only16,67826.2%
Northern Irish only13,54321.3%
British and Northern Irish only2,8634.5%
Irish and Northern Irish only1,1681.8%
British, Irish and Northern Irish only6020.9%
British and Irish only3050.5%
Other identity4,0866.4%
Total63,585100.0%
All Irish identities26,65341.9%
All British identities20,92032.9%
All Northern Irish identities18,48129.1%

Industry and tourism

Agriculture and tourism are two of the most important industries in Fermanagh. The main types of farming in the area are beef, dairy, sheep, pigs and some poultry. Most of the agricultural land is used as grassland for grazing and silage or hay rather than for other crops.

The waterways are extensively used by cabin cruisers, other small pleasure craft and anglers. The main town of Fermanagh is Enniskillen (Irish: Inis Ceithleann, 'Ceithleann's island'). The island town hosts a range of attractions including the Castle Coole Estate and Enniskillen Castle, which is home to the museum of The Royal Inniskilling Fusiliers and the 5th Royal Inniskilling Dragoon Guards. Fermanagh is also home to The Boatyard Distillery, a distillery producing gin.

Attractions outside Enniskillen include:

Settlements

The classification of settlements by NISRA defines six categories following the 2011 census (ignoring Belfast and Derry City which have their own separate categories), namely; Large towns, Medium towns, Small towns, Intermediate settlements, Villages and Small villages or hamlets. The majority of the settlements in County Fermanagh lie within the final category, five within the village category and one each in the intermediate settlements and medium towns categories. No settlements in the county are classified as Large towns or Small towns.

Large towns

(population of 18,000 or more and under 75,000 at 2011 Census)[16]

Medium towns

(population of 10,000 or more and under 18,000 at 2011 Census)[16]

Small towns

(population of 5,000 or more and under 10,000 at 2011 Census)[16]

Intermediate settlements

(population of 2,500 or more and under 4,500 at 2011 Census)[16]

Villages

(population of 1,000 or more and under 2,500 at 2011 Census)[16]

Small villages or hamlets

(population of less than 1,000 at 2011 Census)[16]

Population of Settlements

SettlementIrish2001 Population2011 Population2021 Population
Arney / Skeaan Arna / Sceach114125134
BallinamallardBéal Átha na Mallacht1,3401,4321,364
Ballycassidy / Laragh / TroryBaile Uí Chaiside / Lathrach / Treabhraigh315363357
Belcoo / HolywellBéal Cú / Dabhach Phádraig486540439
BellanaleckBealach na Leice213532714
BelleekBéal Leice836904968
BrookeboroughAchadh Lon517452438
ClabbyClabaigh198268282
DerrygonnellyDoire Ó gConaíle594678574
DerrylinDoire Loinne423640656
DonaghDomhnach255179164
EderneyEadarnaidh554587553
EnniskillenInis Ceithleann13,59913,79014,120
Florencecourt / DrumlaghyMullach na Seangán / Druim Lathaighe13591102
Garrisonan Garastún357351392
IrvinestownNa Cairn / Baile an Irbhinigh1,8012,2642,320
Keshan Cheis9721,0361,101
KilladeasCill Chéile Dé906382
Killesher / DerrylesterCill Laisre / Doire an LeastairN/AN/A59
KinawleyCill Náile75141142
Lackan Leac114111111
LetterbreenLeitir BhruínN/A6851
LisbellawLios Béal Átha1,0461,1021,085
LisnarickLios na nDaróg219238203
LisnaskeaLios na Scéithe2,7392,9603,006
MagheraveelyMachaire MhílicN/A66N/A
MaguiresbridgeDroichead Mhig Uidhir7741,0381,029
MoneaMaigh Niadh114206248
Newtownbutleran Baile Nua943987972
Pettigo (Portion in Co. Fermanagh)Paiteagó816376
RosleaRos Liath554528482
SpringfieldAchadh an Fhuaráin697369
TamlaghtTamhlacht276409341
Teemorean Tigh MórN/A184161
Tempoan tIompú Deiseal533489458
Population statistics were not made available from the 2001, 2011 and 2021 censuses, where noted with an "N/A".

Subdivisions

Baronies

See main article: Baronies of Ireland.

Parishes

See main article: List of civil parishes of County Fermanagh. Townlands

See main article: List of townlands in County Fermanagh.

Media

Newspapers

Education

There are 41 primary schools currently in operation in County Fermanagh, 10 secondary schools, one special school and one further education college.

Primary SchoolsSecondary SchoolsFurther Education College

Special School

Closed Schools[17]

Sport

See main article: Fermanagh GAA. Fermanagh GAA has never won a Senior Provincial or an All-Ireland title in any Gaelic games, it is only one of two counties to win neither title. There are 22 GAA clubs in the county, this is the second least of all 32 counties (Longford now has the least, with 21 GAA clubs).

Only Ballinamallard United F.C. take part in the Northern Ireland football league system. All other Fermanagh clubs play in the Fermanagh & Western FA league systems. Fermanagh Mallards F.C. played in the Women's Premier League until 2013.

Enniskillen RFC was founded in 1925 and is still going.[18] There is also a rugby league team, the Fermanagh Redskins

Famous football players from Fermanagh include –

Notable people

Famous people born, raised in or living in Fermanagh include:

Surnames

The most common surnames in County Fermanagh at the time of the United Kingdom Census of 1901 were:[20]

  1. Maguire
  2. McManus
  3. Johnston
  4. Armstrong
  5. Gallagher
  6. Elliott
  7. Murphy
  8. Reilly
  9. Cassidy
  10. Wilson

Railways

The railway lines in County Fermanagh connected Enniskillen railway station with Derry from 1854, Dundalk from 1861, Bundoran from 1868 and Sligo from 1882.[21]

The railway companies that served the county, prior to the establishment by the merger of Londonderry and Enniskillen Railway, Enniskillen and Bundoran Railway the Dundalk and Enniskillen Railway which was later named the Irish North Western Railway, thus forming the Great Northern Railway (Ireland). By 1883 the Great Northern Railway (Ireland) absorbed all the lines except the Sligo, Leitrim and Northern Counties Railway, which remained independent throughout its existence.

In October 1957 the Government of Northern Ireland closed the GNR line, which made it impossible for the SL&NCR continue and forced it also to close.[22]

The nearest railway station to Enniskillen is Sligo station which is served by trains to Dublin Connolly and is operated by Iarnród Éireann. The Dublin-Sligo railway line has a two-hourly service run by Iarnród Éireann. The connecting bus from Sligo via Manorhamilton to Enniskillen is route 66 operated by Bus Éireann.

See also

References

External links

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Background Information on Northern Ireland Society – Population and Vital Statistics. Cain.ulst.ac.uk. 20 October 2012. 6 December 2010. https://web.archive.org/web/20101206105725/http://cain.ulst.ac.uk/ni/popul.htm. live.
  2. Web site: North-South Ministerial Council: 2004 Annual Report in Ulster Scots . Northsouthministerialcouncil.org . 20 October 2012 . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20120902235901/https://www.northsouthministerialcouncil.org/nsmc_annual_report_2004_-_uslter_scots-2.pdf . 2 September 2012.
  3. Web site: Tourism Ireland: Yierly Report 2007 . Tourismireland.com . 20 October 2012 . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20120717083407/http://www.tourismireland.com/CMSPages/GetFile.aspx?guid=dd88f67c-d3bd-465b-800d-b7fe8244f3cf . 17 July 2012.
  4. Web site: Dungannon & South Tyrone Borough Council . Dungannon.gov.uk . 20 October 2012 . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20130408052025/http://www.dungannon.gov.uk/index.cfm/area/Ulsterscotch . 8 April 2013.
  5. Web site: County . NISRA . 17 August 2023.
  6. Web site: Build or find Census 2021 tables NISRA Flexible Table Builder . 2023-07-18 . build.nisra.gov.uk.
  7. Web site: County Fermanagh – definition of County Fermanagh by The Free Dictionary . Thefreedictionary.com . 2016-08-17 . 21 June 2013 . https://web.archive.org/web/20130621012003/http://www.thefreedictionary.com/County+Fermanagh . live .
  8. News: What's your fracking problem?. The Irish Times. 6 May 2018. 28 June 2018. https://web.archive.org/web/20180628182751/https://www.irishtimes.com/news/what-s-your-fracking-problem-1.594199. live.
  9. Web site: Local Government Act (Northern Ireland) 1972. Legislation.gov.uk. 29 November 2019. 30 October 2019. https://web.archive.org/web/20191030152505/http://www.legislation.gov.uk/apni/1972/9/contents. live.
  10. Web site: Census 2011 Population Statistics for Fermanagh Local Government District . 23 February 2022 . NISRA. This article contains quotations from this source, which is available under the Open Government Licence v3.0. © Crown copyright.
  11. Web site: Religion or religion brought up in . NISRA . 17 August 2023.
  12. Web site: National Identity (Northern Irish) . NISRA . 18 August 2023.
  13. Web site: National Identity (British) . NISRA . 18 August 2023.
  14. Web site: National Identity (Irish) . NISRA . 18 August 2023.
  15. Web site: National identity (person based) - basic detail (classification 1) . NISRA . 18 August 2023.
  16. Web site: Statistical classification of settlements . NI Neighbourhood Information Service . 23 February 2009 . https://web.archive.org/web/20100217122433/http://www.ninis.nisra.gov.uk/mapxtreme_towns/statistical%20classification.htm . 17 February 2010 . dead .
  17. Web site: Fermanagh schools: Five former school buildings lie empty and unused. 2 January 2024. 16 January 2018. https://www.impartialreporter.com/news/15823126.fermanagh-schools-five-former-school-buildings-lie-empty-unused/. live.
  18. Web site: StackPath. www.enniskillenrfc.com. 19 September 2018. 3 May 2018. https://web.archive.org/web/20180503110940/http://www.enniskillenrfc.com/. live.
  19. Book: Who Was Who in America, Historical Volume, 1607–1896 . Marquis Who's Who . Chicago . 1963.
  20. Web site: Fermanagh Genealogy Resources & Parish Registers | Ulster . Forebears.co.uk . 2016-08-17 . 9 April 2015 . https://web.archive.org/web/20150409103712/http://forebears.co.uk/northern-ireland/ulster/fermanagh#surnames . live .
  21. Book: Hajducki, S. Maxwell . 1974 . A Railway Atlas of Ireland . Newton Abbott . . 0-7153-5167-2 . maps 6, 7, 12.
  22. Book: Sprinks, N.W. . Sligo, Leitrim and Northern Counties Railway . 1970 . Billericay . Irish Railway Record Society (London Area) .