Comme des Garçons explained

Comme des Garçons Co., Ltd.
Type:Public company
Founder:Rei Kawakubo
Location:Tokyo, Japan (de facto)
Paris, France (de jure)
Key People:Adrian Joffe

Junya Watanabe

Tao Kurihara

Kei Ninomiya
Num Employees:800 est. (2011)
Industry:Fashion
Products:Apparel, accessories, perfumes

Comme des Garçons (fr||Like Boys, pronounced as /fr/; Japanese: コム・デ・ギャルソン|Komu de Gyaruson),[1] also CDG for short, is a Japanese fashion label based in Paris, founded by Rei Kawakubo.[2] Its French flagship store is located in Paris, while its other physical retail stores are in London, Berlin, Melbourne, Seoul, Hong Kong, New York City and in the Aoyama district of Tokyo.[3] Other than fashion, the label has expanded to include jewelry and perfume (under the brand Comme des Garçons Parfums).[4]

The company features its main collections during Paris Fashion Week and Paris Men's Fashion Week.[5] In 2017, it was reported that the company and its affiliates generated a revenue "of over $280 million a year".[6]

History

The label was started in Tokyo by Rei Kawakubo in 1969 and established as a company in 1973. The brand's name was inspired by Françoise Hardy's 1962 song "French: [[Tous les garçons et les filles]]|i=no", particularly from the line "French: Comme les garçons et les filles de mon âge" ("like the boys and girls my age").[7] The brand became successful in Japan in the 1970s and a menswear line was added in 1978. In 1981, the company had a debut show in Paris. Kawakubo's heavy use of black distressed fabrics, and unfinished seams were viewed negatively by French critics.[8]

Throughout the 1980s, its clothes often were associated with a distressed and punk-oriented style. In 1982, Kawakubo's collection "Destroy" was heavily criticised. Women's Wear Daily called it the "Hiroshima bag lady look", and the Associated Press proclaimed Kawakubo the "high priestess of the Jap wrap". Unusual styles continued through the 1990s, many of which were disliked by experts.[9]

In 1993, the company created its perfume line, Comme Des Garçons Parfums

In 2004, the company split its business into handmade garments produced in France, and non-handmade garments in Japan, Spain and Turkey. The product line Play, the most recognizable and mainstream Comme des Garçons casual luxury line, is largely produced in Japan, Spain, and Turkey, while some of its products are also made in France.[10]

Comme des Garçons lines

Designed by Rei Kawakubo
Designed by Junya Watanabe
Designed by Tao Kurihara
Designed by Fumito Ganryu
Designed by Kei Ninomiya
Accessories
Others

Perfume

The company also produces a line of agendered fragrances, most of which are unconventional in the world of perfume and aligned with the styles of its garments.[11]

The company released its first fragrance, Comme des Garçons, in 1994[12] and its first anti-perfume Odeur 53 in 1998.[13] The anti-perfume features a blend of 53 non-traditional scents which is rarely heard of in many other fragrance brands.[14]

The company also released the Luxe series Champaca, for which artist Katerina Jebb produced the visuals.

Adrian Joffe, the founder's husband and the CEO of the company, set up two companies. Comme des Garçons Parfums is for licensing some of the perfumes to Puig from 2002[15] [16] and Comme des Garçons Parfums for selling the rest by its own.[17]

The company developed a unisex fragrance, G I R L, and released it on August 28, 2014.[18] Artist KAWS designed the bottle.[19]

In 2017, the company launched a new fragrance, Concrete and marked its launch in the US with a dinner curated by the artist and chef, Laila Gohar.

Fashion

Its collections are designed in the studio in Aoyama, Tokyo, and manufactured in Japan, France, Spain, and Turkey. Over the years, the company has recurrently associated itself with the arts and cultural projects internationally. The 1997 spring-summer collection, often referred to as the lumps and bumps collection, which contained fabric in bulk and balls on the garments, led to a collaboration, also in 1997, between Rei Kawakubo and New York-based choreographer Merce Cunningham called Scenario. The 2006 autumn/winter collection dealt with the concept of the persona,[20] the different ways to present one's self to the world. Fusing tailored menswear with feminine elements such as corsets and flower printed dress fabrics, Persona was another collection that combined the feminine with the masculine.

Junya Watanabe[21] [22] and, as of recently, Tao Kurihara[23] [24] have started their own sub-labels under the label. Both also were involved in designing for the casual women's knitwear line Tricot.The company have collaborated with various other labels over the years such as Hammerthor,[25] H&M.[26] [27] and Stüssy.[28]

In other media, Björk wore the label in the music video for Isobel. Frank Ocean named a song after the company.[29] John Waters devoted a chapter of his 2010 book Role Models to the label and founder.[30] [31] Swedish musician Jonna Lee collaborated with the company in the creation of her audiovisual album Everyone Afraid to Be Forgotten, where the fashion house designed the costumes for the film.[32] [33] [34]

Controversies

1995: 'Auschwitz' Fashions

The 1995 "Sleep" collection consisted of striped pajamas "bearing prints of identification numbers and marks of military boot prints".[35] Contemporaneous media coverage juxtaposed images of the collection with images taken at Auschwitz concentration camp, and the controversy received international coverage.[36] The World Jewish Congress condemned the collection,[35] and fashion critic Suzy Menkes called the collection "'Auschwitz' fashions".[35] [37] Kawakubo responded that the collection had been "completely misunderstood" and the controversy made her "very sad".[35]

2015: Guarachero Boots

The Spring/Summer 2015 menswear collection included "guarachero" boots based on the Mexican pointy boots of Matehuala, Mexico, raising concerns of cultural appropriation.[38] [39]

2020: Black Hairstyles

In January 2020, a predominantly white group of models wore cornrowed lace-front wigs in the fall 2020 menswear show.[40] This was seen as the appropriation of Black culture, particularly with the use of traditionally Black hairstyles on non-Black models. Stylist Julien d'Ys responded on Instagram, "Dear all, my inspiration for the Comme Des Garçons show was Egyptian prince, A Look I found truly beautiful and inspirational. A look that was an hommage. Never was it my intention to hurt or offend anyone, ever. If I did I deeply apologize."[41]

Exhibitions

After the Paris début, the company exhibited photographs by Peter Lindbergh at the Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris in 1986.[42] In 1990, it held an exhibition of sculpture. And again in 2005, it held an exhibition in Shinjuku, Tokyo of advertising and graphic designs.

In August 2010, the company opened a 19000square feet six-level flagship store in Seoul, South Korea featuring a branded art-exhibition space, its first outside Japan.[43]

In May 2017, Metropolitan Museum of Art of New York held a fashion exhibition with the theme Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons Art of the In-Between. This exhibition ran until September of the same year.[44] [45]

Stores

Signature boutiques are located in London (as Dover Street Market), Paris, New York City,[46] Beijing,[47] Hong Kong,[48] Seoul, Manila, Saint Petersburg, Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Fukuoka. The company also maintains concessions at select department stores, such as Isetan.

The company opened the first Guerrilla stores in 2004 in Berlin.[49] The aim of the Guerrilla stores is to be open for only one year[50] and to spend a minimal amount of money on the interiors.[51] The stores are also purposefully located away from fashionable hubs and districts of a city. Guerrilla stores have been opened, and subsequently closed, in Reykjavík, Warsaw, Helsinki, Singapore, Stockholm, Athens, and others. In July 2007, a Guerrilla Store opened in Beirut, Lebanon, and in February 2008, a Guerrilla Store opened in downtown Los Angeles, the first in the United States.[52] In November 2008, it opened another Guerilla store in the west end of Glasgow. In 2004 its opened another in London of Dover Street Market.[53] [54]

In December 2009, the company opened a 4400square feet store in Hong Kong called Under The Ground. Hong Kong also had a guerrilla store opened and closed in previous years, run by Silly Thing Hong Kong.[55] In March 2012, it opened a store in Manila. Also, the first Dover Street Market in Japan opened in Ginza.[56] In December 2013, Dover Street Market in New York City opened.[57] In 2021, the company reintroduced its "Guerilla" stores, pioneering temporary boutiques that predated the pop-up shop movement by a good decade or so.

External links

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Company Overview of Comme Des Garcons Co., Ltd. . https://archive.today/20140224132124/http://investing.businessweek.com/research/stocks/private/snapshot.asp?privcapId=5663541 . dead . February 24, 2014 . Bloomberg BusinessWeek . February 24, 2014.
  2. Web site: Comme des Garçons biography . February 27, 2022 . Catwalk Yourself . en.
  3. Web site: Comme des Garçons worldwide stores . comme-des-garcons.com . September 24, 2020.
  4. Web site: 8 COMME des GARÇONS Diffusion Labels Integral to Rei Kawakubo's Vision. November 26, 2020. HYPEBEAST. September 21, 2015 .
  5. Web site: Rei Kawakubo Never Meant to Start a Revolution. Anne. Slowey. Jacques. Hyzagi. March 4, 2016. ELLE.
  6. Web site: Blanks . Tim . Rei Kawakubo: A Punk's Pain . The Business of Fashion . December 11, 2022 . https://web.archive.org/web/20201118200652/https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/rei-kawakubo-interview-commes-des-garcons-metropolitan-museum-of-art/ . November 18, 2020 . en . April 24, 2017.
  7. Web site: The True Story of How COMME des GARÇONS Got Its Name . Highsnobiety . May 24, 2019.
  8. News: Women in fashion – Rei Kawakubo . https://web.archive.org/web/20040210030330/http://www.time.com/time/2004/style/020904/power/9.html . February 10, 2004 . Time magazine . February 9, 2004 . June 30, 2019 . Kate Betts . dead .
  9. Web site: Buck. Stephanie. August 3, 2017. Japan's 'crow tribe' is the reason everyone started wearing black in New York. November 20, 2020. Medium. en.
  10. Web site: A Comprehensive Guide to the Comme Universe . November 20, 2020 . Grailed . en.
  11. Web site: Wells. Pete. September 17, 2013. Comme des Garçons builds niche perfume empire. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20081012073911/http://www.iht.com/articles/2007/10/15/style/FPERFUME.php. October 12, 2008. September 24, 2013. International Herald Tribune.
  12. Web site: Comme des Garçons Perfume. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20081015005835/http://hypebeast.com/2007/03/comme-des-garcons-perfume/. October 15, 2008. HYPEBEAST.
  13. Web site: May 9, 2008. New Comme des Garçons perfume. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20090208142420/http://www.wallpaper.com/beauty/new-comme-des-garcons-perfume/2338. February 8, 2009. September 24, 2013. Wallpaper.
  14. Web site: March 20, 2008. Comme des Garçons. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20130927215840/http://theconveyorbelt.com/index.php/archives/234. September 27, 2013. September 24, 2013. The Conveyor Belt.
  15. Web site: Comme des Garcons, new signing Puig. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20180724093501/https://www.hola.com/belleza/actualidad/2002091647764/belleza/actualidad/noticiacommegarconspuig/. July 24, 2018. April 29, 2012. ¡Hola!.
  16. News: Lunch with the FT: Adrian Joffe – FT.com. Financial Times . January 17, 2014 . August 3, 2016.
  17. News: Friedman. Vanessa. Lunch with the FT: Adrian Joffe. Financial Times. August 3, 2016. 0307-1766.
  18. Web site: G I R L by Pharrell Williams Eau de Parfum (100 ml natural spray). dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20140826114200/http://shop.doverstreetmarket.com/us/comme-des-garcons/parfums-1/g-i-r-l-by-pharrell-williams-eau-de-parfum-100ml-natural-spray. August 26, 2014. August 22, 2014. Dover Street Market New York.
  19. Web site: Kilcooley-O'Halloran. Scarlett. March 12, 2014. The Scent of Pharrell. March 12, 2014.
  20. Web site: Sarah Mower . Comme des Garçons F/W 2006 . style.com . March 4, 2006 . September 24, 2013 . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20080718164130/http://www.style.com/fashionshows/collections/F2006RTW/review/CMMEGRNS . July 18, 2008 .
  21. Web site: Junya Watanabe . NYmag . September 24, 2013 . November 9, 2012 . https://web.archive.org/web/20121109073412/http://nymag.com/fashion/fashionshows/designers/bios/junyawatanabe/ . dead .
  22. Web site: Mari Davis . Tom Massey . Boyd Davis . Junya Watanabe . Fashion Windows . September 24, 2013 . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20130630213611/http://www.fashionwindows.com/beauty/junya_watanabe/default.asp . June 30, 2013 .
  23. News: Gentle maverick Tao Kurihara's autumn collection will be the last under her own name. She explains her change of direction to Susannah Frankel . Independent.co.uk.
  24. Web site: Liberty: Designer Room. https://web.archive.org/web/20080414204529/http://www.liberty.co.uk/what_s_in_store/womenswear/designer_room/343. dead. April 14, 2008.
  25. Web site: vmagazine.com Comme des Garçons and the most avant-garde underwear around. https://web.archive.org/web/20080123205530/http://www.vmagazine.com/blog.php?n=3082. dead. January 23, 2008.
  26. Web site: Comme des Garcons for H&M . Vogue . April 3, 2008 . September 24, 2013 . https://web.archive.org/web/20100820102006/http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/daily/2008-04/080403-comme-des-garcons-for-handm.aspx . August 20, 2010 . dead .
  27. Web site: Wells . Pete . Rei Kawakubo and H & M: A collaboration to watch . International Herald Tribune . September 17, 2013 . September 24, 2013 . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20081204064315/http://www.iht.com/articles/2008/04/07/style/fcomme.php . December 4, 2008 .
  28. Web site: Exposito . Adrian Gomis . November 13, 2020 . Stüssy X CDG Capsule Collection Vanity Teen 虚荣青年 Lifestyle & New Faces Magazine . February 27, 2022 . www.vanityteen.com . en-GB.
  29. News: Gregory. Alice. September 3, 2018. Rei Kawakubo Revealed (Sort Of) (Published 2018). en-US. The New York Times. December 1, 2020. 0362-4331.
  30. Web site: John Waters on His Rei Kawakubo Obsession. December 1, 2020. The Cut. en-us.
  31. Web site: October 25, 2016. Comme Des Garcons Designer Rei Kawakubo Was Announced as the 2017 Met Gala Theme. December 1, 2020. Repeller. en-US.
  32. Web site: AnOther. March 9, 2017. The Ethereal New Musical Endeavour from Jonna Lee. December 3, 2020. AnOther. en.
  33. Web site: June 3, 2017. Watch ionnalee's Captivating Collaboration With Commes des Garçons. December 3, 2020. www.out.com. en.
  34. Web site: Lunny. Oisin. July 1, 2017. Dual Talents: Get To Know The Artists Bridging The Gap Between Fashion and Music. December 3, 2020. OISIN LUNNY. en-US.
  35. News: The New York Times. 'Auschwitz' Fashions Draw Jewish Rebuke. https://web.archive.org/web/20151010031152/http://www.nytimes.com/1995/02/04/news/04iht-suzy.html. Suzy. Menkes. February 4, 1995. October 10, 2015.
  36. News: Cal. McCrystal. Outrage at 'death camps' pyjama fashion. Independent on Sunday. February 5, 1995.
  37. Uses and abuses of history: A case of a Comme des Garçons fashion show. Agata. Zborowska. Critical Studies in Fashion & Beauty. 2014 . 5. 2. 233–252. 10.1386/csfb.5.2.233_1 .
  38. News: The New York Times. Paulina. Villegas. August 23, 2016. In Arts and Culture, a 'New' Mexico Embraces Its Roots.
  39. Web site: These 'pointy boots' from Mexico are in style this spring. Lucía. Tejo. April 8, 2015. Al Día.
  40. Web site: Russo . Gianluca . January 18, 2020 . Comme des Garçons Called Out for Cultural Appropriation During Paris Fashion Week Show . Teen Vogue.
  41. Web site: juliendys on Instagram. https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/s/instagram/B7d_RujHnx3 . December 24, 2021 . limited. January 18, 2020.
  42. Web site: Peter Lindbergh for Comme des Garçons. https://web.archive.org/web/20080513233521/http://www.peterlindbergh.net/exhibitions.html#1986. dead. May 13, 2008.
  43. Web site: Comme des Garçons Seoul Flagship Store . Hypebeast . September 1, 2010 . September 24, 2013.
  44. http://time.com/4540904/comme-des-garcons-rei-kawakubo-met-gala-theme-2017/ Time magazine. Kawakubo announcement of 2017 exhibit
  45. Web site: July 2, 2013 . Comme des Garçons . February 27, 2022 . Vogue . es.
  46. Web site: Future Systems: Comme des Garçonss. https://web.archive.org/web/20080415150321/http://www.future-systems.com/architecture/architecture_12.html%23. dead. April 15, 2008.
  47. Web site: highsnobiety: Comme des Garçons Beijing flagship store.
  48. Web site: Comme des Garcons Store 2007 Hong Kong. https://web.archive.org/web/20080517050535/http://hypebeast.com/2007/04/comme-des-garcons-store-2007-hong-kong/. dead. May 17, 2008. HYPEBEAST.
  49. News: The New York Times: The Anti-Concept Concept Store . . December 12, 2004. September 24, 2013 . Amanda . Fortini.
  50. News: Cathy Horyn. The New York Times: A Store Made for Right Now: You Shop Until It's Dropped . New York Times . February 17, 2004 . September 24, 2013.
  51. Web site: Archimedes Pool: Guerrilla Store by Comme des Garçons . Archimedespool.wordpress.com . September 21, 2007 . September 24, 2013.
  52. News: Los Angeles Times: A hip hideaway . Articles.latimes.com . February 17, 2008 . September 24, 2013 . Emili . Vesilind.
  53. Web site: Dover Street Market | icon 017 | November 2004 | ICON MAGAZINE ONLINE. https://web.archive.org/web/20081017174947/http://www.iconeye.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=2685:dover-street-market--icon-017--november-2004. dead. October 17, 2008. October 17, 2008.
  54. News: Tamsin Blanchard . The Observer: Shabby chic . Observer.guardian.co.uk . October 3, 2004 . September 24, 2013 . London.
  55. Web site: hypebeast: Comme des Garçons Hong Kong. https://web.archive.org/web/20080501114434/http://hypebeast.com/2007/03/comme-des-garcons-hong-kong-2/. dead. May 1, 2008.
  56. Web site: Expected brands at DSM. https://web.archive.org/web/20120124092653/http://www.doverstreetmarket.com/ginza/featured_brands.html. dead. January 24, 2012.
  57. News: Jacob Bernstein . At Dover Street Market, Differences of Opinion . . December 24, 2013 . January 30, 2014.

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