Christian Core Explained
Christian Core |
Nationality: | Italian |
Birth Date: | 1974 10, df=yes |
Birth Place: | Savona, Italy |
Occupation: | Professional rock climber |
Height: | 177 cm |
Weight: | 61 kg |
Knownfor: | first-ever person to climb an boulder |
Updated: | 31 October 2017 |
Show-Medals: | yes |
Christian Core (born 5 October 1974) is an Italian professional rock climber who specialises in bouldering and competition bouldering. He is known for being the first-ever person in the world to climb an boulder, , in 2008. As a competition climber, Core won the Bouldering World Cup twice in 1999 and 2002, and also won the Bouldering World Championship in 2003.
Climbing career
Competition climbing
In 1999 Core stopped competing in the Lead Climbing World Cup and started participating in the Bouldering World Cup, organized by UIAA in that year for the first time in history.[1] He immediately won the Cup, and again in 2002.[2] In 2003, he earned the title of World Champion in bouldering.[3]
Bouldering
He has ascended several very hard boulders in Italy near Bobbio Pellice, Varazze, and Triora. In 2008, he climbed , the first-ever boulder graded in history, and was for 8 years, the most difficult boulder in the world. In 2011, Adam Ondra repeated the ascent and confirmed the grade,[4] however, in 2015, Core announced that a hold broke on Gioia, which he could only partially repair, and which slightly lowered the grade.[5]
Personal life
In 2009, he married the climber Stella Marchisio.
Rankings
See also: List of best IFSC results.
Climbing World Cup
Climbing World Championships
| 1997 | 1999 | 2001 | 2003 | 2005 | 2007 | 2009 | 2011 |
---|
Lead | 7 | - | - | - | - | - | - | - |
Bouldering | - | - | 3 | 1 | 18 | 10 | 10 | 33 | |
Climbing European Championships
| 1998 | 2000 | 2002 | 2004 | 2007 | 2008 | 2010 |
---|
Lead | 10 | - | - | - | - | - | - |
Bouldering | - | - | 1 | - | 16 | 10 | 7 | |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Bouldering
Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|
1999 | 2 | 1 | | 3 |
2000 | | 1 | 1 | 2 |
2001 | | 1 | | 1 |
2002 | 1 | 1 | | 2 |
2003 | | | 1 | 1 |
2004 | | 1 | | 1 |
2005 | | 1 | | 1 |
2006 | | | 1 | 1 |
2010 | | | 1 | 1 |
Total | 3 | 6 | 4 | 13 | |
Rock climbing
Redpointed routes
Core redpointed and onsighted routes.
Boulder problems
Core redpointed and flashed boulder problems.
8C+/V16:
- – Varazze (ITA) – 2008 – First ascent.[6] Adam Ondra repeated it on 6 December 2011 and confirmed the 8C+ grade.[7] Third ascent by Nalle Hukkataival[8]
8C/V15:
8B+/V14:
- Toky – Val Ellero (ITA) – 2009 – First ascent[10]
- New Base Line – Magic Wood (CHE) – 2006[11]
- Toguro – Varazze (ITA) – 2003 – First ascent[14]
- Taklimakam plus – Varazze (ITA) – 2002 – First ascent[16]
Film
- i Core, my climbing family – 2012 – Regia di Angelo Poli – 45'[18]
See also
Bibliografia
- Book: Andrea Gennari Daneri, Christian Core. Train!. 2000. Pareti e Montagne edizioni.
External links
- Web site: Christian Core e Dreamtime . Stefanello . Vinicio . 14 March 2003 . PlanetMountain . it . 3 August 2017 . https://web.archive.org/web/20170803212314/http://www.planetmountain.com/it/notizie/interviste/christian-core-e-dreamtime.html . 2 December 2023.
Notes and References
- Web site: A Cristian Core e Stèphanie Bodet la Worldcup di Bouldering 1999. planetmountain.com. 1 September 1999. 8 January 2012.
- Web site: A Core e Perlova la World Cup Bouldering. planetmountain.com. 23 October 2002. 8 January 2012.
- Web site: Core e Levet campioni del mondo Boulder. planetmountain.com. 11 July 2003. 8 January 2012.
- Web site: PlanetMountain.com . Adam Ondra, the pure Gioia interview. 7 December 2011 . 29 January 2022 .
- Web site: 8a.nu . Core gives us the Gioia 8C+ history. 19 December 2020 . 29 January 2022 .
- Web site: La Gioia di Christian Core. infoboulder.com. 25 February 2008. 8 January 2012.
- Web site: Adam Ondra ripete Gioia 8C+ a Varazze. planetmountain.com. 6 December 2011. 8 January 2012.
- Web site: Nalle Hukkataival ripete Gioia a Varazze. planetmountain.com. 22 February 2014. 23 September 2014.
- Web site: Una Kimera per Christian Core. infoboulder.com. 6 September 2006. 8 January 2012.
- Web site: Christian Core apre Toky. infoboulder.com. 31 October 2009. 8 January 2012.
- Web site: New Base Line per Christian Core. infoboulder.com. 14 December 2006. 8 January 2012.
- Web site: Christian Core, 8b+ in Spagna. infoboulder.com. 2 March 2006. 8 January 2012.
- Web site: Christian Core risolve Ajna. infoboulder.com. 1 June 2004. 8 January 2012.
- Web site: 'Toguro' 8b+ per Core a Varazze. infoboulder.com. 10 May 2003. 8 January 2012.
- Web site: Christian Core sale 'Dreamtime'. infoboulder.com. 14 February 2003. 8 January 2012.
- Web site: Taklimakam si allunga. infoboulder.com. 7 November 2002. 8 January 2012.
- Web site: Christian Core, 8b+ su Shadowfax. infoboulder.com. 19 September 2002. 8 January 2012.
- Web site: i Core my climbing family su Deejay TV. planetmountain.com. 16 October 2012. 29 July 2013.