Bouldering at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup explained

Event:Bouldering
Competition:2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location: Meiringen, Switzerland
Salt Lake City (2 times), United States
Innsbruck, Austria
Dates:16 April – 26 June 2021
Men: Yoshiyuki Ogata
Women: Natalia Grossman
Prev:2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Next:2022 IFSC Climbing World Cup

The 2021 season of the IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 22nd season of the competition. Bouldering competitions will be held at six stops of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. The bouldering season began on April 16 at the World Cup in Meiringen, and concluded on 26 June with the World Cup in Innsbruck. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled six bouldering events concluding on 24 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of events in Wujiang in China and Seoul in South Korea.[1] [2]

At each stop a qualifying was held on the first day of the competition, and the semi-final and final rounds were conducted on the second day of the competition. At the end of the season an overall ranking will be determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Overview

Route-setters*!Men!Women
April, 16–18 Meiringen, SwitzerlandKletterhalle Haslital[3]
  • Gen Hirashima
  • Remi Samyn
  • Laurent Laporte
 Adam Ondra Janja Garnbret
May, 21-22 Salt Lake City, United StatesIndustry SLC[4]
  • Jamie Cassidy
  • Brad Weaver
  • Tsukasa Mizuguchi
 Adam Ondra Natalia Grossman
May, 28–30 Salt Lake City, United StatesIndustry SLC
  • Jamie Cassidy
  • Garret Gregor
  • Yann Genoux
  • Flannery Shay-Nemirow
 Sean Bailey Natalia Grossman
June, 23–26 Innsbruck, AustriaKletterzentrum Innsbruck[5]
  • Percy Bishton
  • Manuel Hassler
  • Romain Cabessut
  • Garret Gregor
 Yoshiyuki Ogata Janja Garnbret
OVERALL WINNERS Yoshiyuki Ogata Natalia Grossman
NATIONAL TEAM Japan
* Chief route-setters are in bold.

Overall ranking

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are five competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted.

Men

The results of the twenty most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2021:[6]

RankNamePointsMeiringenSalt Lake City ISalt Lake City IIInnsbruck
1 Yoshiyuki Ogata2552. 8016. 204. 551. 100
2 Kokoro Fujii2554. 554. 552. 803. 65
3 Adam Ondra2001. 1001. 100 (—)(—)
4 Sean Bailey16613. 268. 401. 10047. 0
5 Mejdi Schalck15712. 282. 809. 3720. 12
6 Tomoa Narasaki145(—)(—)3. 652. 80
7 Nathaniel Coleman1425. 5121. 1010. 346. 47
8 Nicolai Užnik13214. 2411. 3115. 224. 55
9 Alexander Megos1298. 409. 3714. 2412. 28
10 Simon Lorenzi123.529. 1.57. 4312. 285. 51
11 Sohta Amagasa1196. 4714. 2413. 2615. 22
12 Alexey Rubtsov11417. 1815. 2211. 317. 43
13 Gregor Vezonik98.59. 376. 4724. 723. 7.5
13 Anže Peharc98.521. 9.55. 5116. 2017. 18
15 Jakob Schubert96.523. 7.53. 65(—)14. 24
16 Tomoaki Takata94.93. 6522. 932. 0.916. 20
17 Rei Sugimoto77.521. 9.517. 1818. 1610. 34
18 Manuel Cornu75.411. 3135. 0.87. 4337. 0.6
19 Colin Duffy64.531. 0.913. 2638. 0.69. 37
20 Yannick Flohé6319. 1324. 720. 1211. 31

Women

The results of the twenty most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2021:[7]

RankNamePointsMeiringenSalt Lake City ISalt Lake City IIInnsbruck
1 Natalia Grossman3453. 651. 1001. 1002. 80
2 Janja Garnbret2801. 100(—)2. 801. 100
3 Oriane Bertone2352. 802. 804. 5516. 20
4 Brooke Raboutou2079. 373. 653. 658. 40
5 Miho Nonaka1927. 434. 556. 476. 47
6 Staša Gejo17313. 2611. 315. 513. 65
7 Katja Debevec1586. 478. 407. 4312. 28
8 Futaba Ito135(—)7. 439. 374. 55
9 Akiyo Noguchi1224. 55(—)18. 165. 51
10 Mao Nakamura92(—)10. 3414. 2410. 34
11 Johanna Färber91.731. 0.96. 4734. 0.87. 43
12 Jessica Pilz7912. 285. 51(—)(—)
13 Franziska Sterrer78.511. 3121. 9520. 1213. 26
14 Vita Lukan775. 5123. 817. 18(—)
15 Petra Klingler74.521. 9.525. 612. 2811. 31
16 Fanny Gibert72.535. 0.79. 3710. 3433. 0.8
17 Andrea Kümin698. 4026. 5(—)14. 24
18 Kylie Cullen67.525. 5.514. 2416. 2017. 18
19 Kyra Condie6021. 9.530. 18. 4021. 9.5
20 Chloe Caulier58.525. 5.513. 2626. 515. 22

* = Joint place with another athlete

National teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2021:[8]

Country names as used by the IFSC

RankNamePointsMeiringenSalt Lake City ISalt Lake City IIInnsbruck
1 Japan1235.02. 298.03. 231.02. 308.01. 398.0
2 United States1088.03. 209.01. 265.01. 390.02. 224.0
3 Slovenia798.01. 312.05. 148.04. 168.03. 170.0
4 France635.854. 156.62. 238.753. 177.08. 63.5
5 Austria498.257. 91.954. 204.010. 34.84. 167.5
6 Germany403.16. 93.56. 119.05. 108.05. 82.6
7 Belgium215.5512. 22.08. 69.557. 51.06. 73.0
8 Czech Republic200.05. 100.07. 100.0(—)(—)
9 Italy190.611. 22.959. 66.09. 45.710. 55.95
10 Serbia173.010. 26.011. 31.07. 51.07. 65.0

Meiringen, Switzerland (16–17 April)

Men

101 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen.[9]

RankNameScore
1 Adam Ondra3T3z 10 7
2 Yoshiyuki Ogata2T4z 7 9
3 Tomoaki Takata1T4z 4 12
4 Kokoro Fujii1T3z 1 4
5 Nathaniel Coleman1T3z 2 5
6 Sohta Amagasa0T3z 0 4

Women

70 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen.[10]

RankNameScore
1 Janja Garnbret4T4z 7 6
2 Oriane Bertone2T4z 8 10
3 Natalia Grossman2T4z 10 10
4 Akiyo Noguchi0T3z 0 7
5 Vita Lukan0T2z 0 3
6 Katja Debevec0T2z 0 6

Salt Lake City I, United States (21–22 May)

Men

55 athletes attended the first World Cup in Salt Lake City.[11]

RankNameScore
1 Adam Ondra4T4z 8 7
2 Mejdi Schalck3T4z 4 5
3 Jakob Schubert3T3z 4 4
4 Kokoro Fujii3T3z 12 7
5 Anže Peharc1T3z 2 8
6 Gregor Vezonik1T2z 2 2

Women

50 athletes attended the first World Cup in Salt Lake City.[12]

RankNameScore
1 Natalia Grossman4T4z 15 14
2 Oriane Bertone3T4z 7 7
3 Brooke Raboutou3T3z 4 3
4 Miho Nonaka3T3z 7 6
5 Jessica Pilz1T3z 3 6
6 Johanna Färber1T2z 1 8

Salt Lake City II, United States (28–30 May)

Men

55 athletes attended the second World Cup in Salt Lake City.[13]

RankNameScore
1 Sean Bailey2T4z 9 11
2 Kokoro Fujii1T4z 9 12
3 Tomoa Narasaki1T3z 1 3
4 Yoshiyuki Ogata0T2z 0 4
5 Zach Galla0T1z 0 1
6 Maximillian Milne0T1z 0 2

Women

51 athletes attended the second World Cup in Salt Lake City.[14] Natalia Grossman won the competition, becoming the first athlete to best Janja Garnbret in a bouldering World Cup since Meiringen in April 2018, thus ending Garnbret's streak at nine consecutive wins.[15]

RankNameScore
1 Natalia Grossman4T4z 4 4
2 Janja Garnbret4T4z 6 6
3 Brooke Raboutou3T4z 5 8
4 Oriane Bertone3T3z 9 5
5 Staša Gejo3T3z 11 10
6 Miho Nonaka2T4z 5 9

Innsbruck, Austria (23–26 June)

Men

110 athletes attended the World Cup in Innsbruck.[16] Because of rain delays and restrictions surrounding the COVID-19 pandemic in Austria, the final round was cut short and only three of the four boulders were used.

RankNameScore
1 Yoshiyuki Ogata2T2z 7 7
2 Tomoa Narasaki1T3z 2 11
3 Kokoro Fujii1T1z 2 2
4 Nicolai Uznik1T1z 2 2
5 Simon Lorenzi1T1z 10 10
6 Nathaniel Coleman0T1z 0 2

Women

89 athletes attended the second World Cup in Innsbruck.[17] Because of rain delays, the finals were cut short and only the first three of the four boulders in that round were counted towards the results. Miho Nonaka was forced to withdraw from the final after a knee injury she picked up on W4 in the semi-final round.[18]

Coverage of the Austrian climber Johanna Färber received criticism from viewers and she described it as "disrespectful and upsetting". The host broadcaster, ORF, issued an apology after the event.[19] [20] [21]

RankNameScore
1 Janja Garnbret3T3z 3 3
2 Natalia Grossman3T3z 9 9
3 Staša Gejo1T3z 2 6
4 Futaba Ito1T2z 3 8
5 Akiyo Noguchi1T1z 1 1
6 Miho NonakaDNS

Notes and References

  1. Web site: 20 August 2021. Sport climbing World Cup events in China cancelled because of COVID-19. live. 2021-09-05. www.insidethegames.biz. https://web.archive.org/web/20210820174752/https://www.insidethegames.biz/articles/1111882/ifsc-world-cups-cancelled-china . 2021-08-20 .
  2. News: Burke. Patrick. 20 September 2021. IFSC World Cup in Seoul cancelled less than two weeks before event. inside the games. 20 September 2021.
  3. Web site: 2021 Meiringen info sheet. live. https://web.archive.org/web/20210907101201/https://ifsc.results.info/events/1187/infosheet . 2021-09-07 .
  4. Web site: 2021 SLC info sheet. live. https://web.archive.org/web/20210907101201/https://ifsc.results.info/events/1190/infosheet . 2021-09-07 .
  5. Web site: 2021 Innsbruck info sheet. live. https://web.archive.org/web/20210905150311/https://ifsc.results.info/events/1193/infosheet . 2021-09-05 .
  6. Web site: IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2021 Men OVERALL Ranking .
  7. Web site: IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2021 Women OVERALL Ranking .
  8. Web site: IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: BOULDERING NATIONAL TEAM RANKING. live. 2021-09-25. www.ifsc-climbing.org. https://web.archive.org/web/20210925081406/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar?task=ranking-complete&cup=66&category=2&year=2021&ntr=true . 2021-09-25 .
  9. Web site: IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Meiringen (SUI) 2021 - General result M E N bouldering . 24 April 2021 . .
  10. Web site: IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Meiringen (SUI) 2021 - General result W O M E N bouldering . 24 April 2021 . .
  11. Web site: IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Salt Lake City I (USA) 2021 - General result M E N bouldering . 23 May 2021 . .
  12. Web site: IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Salt Lake City I (USA) 2021 - General result W O M E N bouldering . 23 May 2021 . .
  13. Web site: IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Salt Lake City II (USA) 2021 - General result M E N bouldering . 5 June 2021 . .
  14. Web site: IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Salt Lake City II (USA) 2021 - General result W O M E N bouldering . 5 June 2021 . .
  15. News: Berry . Natalie . IFSC Boulder and Speed World Cup Salt Lake City 2021 (Round 2): Report . June 1, 2021 . UKC . May 31, 2021.
  16. Web site: IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Innsbruck (AUT) 2021 - General result M E N bouldering . 3 July 2021 . .
  17. Web site: IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B) - Innsbruck (AUT) 2021 - General result W O M E N bouldering . 3 July 2021 . .
  18. Web site: NEWS: IFSC Lead and Boulder World Cup Innsbruck 2021 - Report. 2021-09-07. www.ukclimbing.com. en.
  19. Web site: Grossman and Garnbret Battle, Broadcaster Apologizes for Sexualizing Coverage . Climbing . 19 July 2021 . 27 June 2021.
  20. Web site: "Inappropriate" coverage row and rainstorms mar IFSC World Cup at Innsbruck . www.insidethegames.biz . 19 July 2021.
  21. Web site: IFSC . IFSC Twitter page . Twitter . 19 July 2021 . en.

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