Bouldering at the 2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup explained

Event:Bouldering
Competition:2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location: Meiringen, Switzerland
Chongqing, China
Nanjing, China
Hachioji, Japan
Vail, United States
Navi Mumbai, India
Munich, Germany
Dates:7 April – 19 August 2017
Men: Jongwon Chon
Women: Shauna Coxsey
Prev:2016 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Next:2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup

The 2017 season of the IFSC Climbing World Cup was the 19th season of the competition. Bouldering competitions were being held at seven stops of the IFSC Climbing World Cup. The bouldering season began on April 7 at the World Cup in Meiringen, and concluded on 19 August at the World Cup in Munich. At each stop a qualifying was held on the first day, and the semi-final and final rounds were conducted on the second day of the competition. The winners were awarded trophies, and the best three finishers received medals. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Shauna Coxsey won the women's World Cup and Jongwon Chon won the men's World Cup.

Changes from the previous season

For the 2017 season the IFSC changed the timing method for the finals of World Cup tournaments. Beginning in 2017 any attempt would only be considered successful if the athlete had reached the top and demonstrated control over it within the four minute time limit. (four minutes dead rule) Previously boulderers had four minutes per boulder, but a boulderer was allowed to finish their attempt if they had successfully started the boulder within the four minute limit. (four minutes plus rule) [1]

Streaming controversy

Before the start of the 2017 season the IFSC announced that they had signed a three-year contract with the streaming platform FloSports,[2] which would have made the streams of climbing World Cups available only to paying customers instead of being freely accessible. This led to an online petition asking the IFSC to change their deal with FloSports, which was signed by more than 12,000 people,[3] and an open letter by the Athletes' Commission. The Commission voiced their frustration over the way the IFSC had previously communicated with the community at large, and "asked the athletes to withdraw cooperation with the livestream media until changes are made".[3] On the next day the IFSC apologized for having made a mistake, and announced that the deal with FloSports had not actually been signed yet despite the earlier press release, and would not be concluded.[4]

Overall ranking

Men

RankNamePoints
1 Jongwon Chon453
2 Tomoa Narasaki404
3 Alexey Rubtsov399
4 Keita Watabe372
5 Kokoro Fujii327
6 Rei Sugimoto278
7 Jan Hojer235
8 Yoshiyuki Ogata232
9 Jernej Kruder201
10 Jakob Schubert186

Women

RankNamePoints
1 Shauna Coxsey560
2 Janja Garnbret470
3 Akiyo Noguchi381
4 Miho Nonaka377
5 Petra Klingler290
6 Staša Gejo234
7 Katja Kadic227
8 Michaela Tracy190
9 Fanny Gibert187
10 Aya Onoe165

National teams

Country names as used by the IFSC

RankNamePoints
1 Japan2118
2 Great Britain929
3 Slovenia927
4 Germany736
5 France715
6 Republic of Korea694
7 Russian Federation608
8 Austria548
8 Suisse368
10 United States of America340

Meiringen, Switzerland (7–8 April)

Women

78 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Shauna Coxsey (4t10 4b8) won the competition in front of Katharina Saurwein (2t6 3b13).[5]

RankNameScorePoints
1 Shauna Coxsey4t10 4b8100
2 Katharina Saurwein2t6 3b1380
3 Miho Nonaka1t2 3b665
4 Stasa Gejo1t3 3b355
5 Petra Klingler1t3 2b351
6 Janja Garnbret0t 2b447

Men

115 athletes attended the World Cup in Meiringen. Kokoro Fujii (1t1 3b6) won the competition in front of Alexey Rubtsov (1t2 2b8).[5]

RankNameScorePoints
1 Kokoro Fujii1t1 3b6100
2 Alexey Rubtsov1t2 2b880
3 Keita Watabe1t3 2b1265
4 Rei Sugimoto1t5 3b755
5 Jernej Kruder0t 2b351
6 David Firnenburg0t 1b447

Chongqing, China (22–23 April)

Women

42 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Janja Garnbret (4t11 4b7) won the competition in front of Shauna Coxsey (3t4 4b5).[6]

RankNameScorePoints
1 Janja Garnbret4t11 4b7100
2 Shauna Coxsey3t4 4b580
3 Akiyo Noguchi3t13 4b1365
4 Anna Stöhr1t3 3b655
5 Alannah Yip1t3 3b851
6 Stasa Gejo1t4 3b747

Men

77 athletes attended the World Cup in Chongqing. Jongwon Chon (4t6 4b5) won the competition in front of Tomoa Narasaki (2t2 3b3), who claimed the second place over Alexey Rubtsov by virtue of his better semi-final score.[6]

RankNameScorePoints
1 Jongwon Chon4t6 4b5100
2 Tomoa Narasaki2t2 3b380
3 Alexey Rubtsov2t2 3b365
4 Keita Watabe2t3 3b355
5 Kai Harada1t1 3b451
6 Manuel Cornu1t4 3b847

Nanjing, China (29–30 April)

Women

50 athletes attended the World Cup in Nanjing. Shauna Coxsey (4t12 4b12) won her second World Cup competition of the season. At this point Coxsey and Nanjing runner-up Janja Garnbret (3t7 3b7) were the only two athletes to have made the final of all World Cups of the season.[7]

RankNameScorePoints
1 Shauna Coxsey4t12 4b12100
2 Janja Garnbret3t7 3b780
3 Miho Nonaka2t6 4b1565
4 Jain Kim1t5 2b1155
5 Aya Onoe0t 3b851
6 Mei Kotake0t 1b347

Men

83 athletes attended the World Cup in Nanjing. Keita Watabe (4t9 4b8), the only athlete in all World Cup finals of the season at this point, won his first World Cup competition. Tomoa Narasaki (3t6 4b7) came in second.[7]

RankNameScorePoints
1 Keita Watabe4t9 4b8100
2 Tomoa Narasaki3t6 4b780
3 Jernej Kruder2t5 3b565
4 Jongwon Chon1t1 3b855
5 Manuel Cornu0t 3b351
6 Rei Sugimoto0t 3b447

Hachioji, Japan (6–7 May)

Women

54 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachiōji, Tokyo. Janja Garnbret (4t5 4b4) won her second World Cup of the season. Akiyo Noguchi (4t9 4b9) won the silver medal.[8]

RankNameScorePoints
1 Janja Garnbret4t5 4b4100
2 Akiyo Noguchi4t9 4b980
3 Miho Nonaka3t4 4b565
4 Shauna Coxsey2t2 3b355
5 Fanny Gibert2t6 4b1251
6 Petra Klingler1t1 3b547

Men

84 athletes attended the World Cup in Hachiōji. Alexey Rubtsov (3t8 4b13) won the World Cup in front of Tomoa Narasaki (3t9 4b19), who had his third consecutive silver medal finish.[8]

RankNameScorePoints
1 Alexey Rubtsov3t8 4b13100
2 Tomoa Narasaki3t9 4b1980
3 Keita Watabe2t5 3b665
4 Mickael Mawem1t1 4b855
5 Jakob Schubert1t2 3b551
6 Taisei Ishimatsu1t3 4b947

Vail, United States (9–10 June)

Women

55 athletes attended the World Cup in Vail. Shauna Coxsey (4t5 4b4) won her third World Cup of the season. Akiyo Noguchi (4t9 4b9) won silver again. For the first time this season Janja Garnbret did not reach the final.[9]

RankNameScorePoints
1 Shauna Coxsey3t4 4b5100
2 Akiyo Noguchi3t6 4b680
3 Miho Nonaka3t7 4b765
4 Alex Puccio3t10 4b1055
5 Katja Kadic1t3 2b451
6 Petra Klingler0t 1b247

Men

59 athletes attended the World Cup in Vail. Jongwon Chon (4t9 4b8) won the World Cup in front of Meichi Narasaki (3t6 3b5).[9]

RankNameScorePoints
1 Jongwon Chon4t9 4b8100
2 Meichi Narasaki3t6 3b580
3 Yoshiyuki Ogata3t11 4b765
4 Alexey Rubtsov2t5 3b855
5 Kokoro Fujii2t6 4b1051
6 Keita Watabe1t3 1b347

Navi Mumbai, India (24–25 June)

Women

41 athletes attended the World Cup in Navi Mumbai. Shauna Coxsey (4t11 4b8) won her fourth World Cup of the season, thereby securing the overall seasonal title. Miho Nonaka (3t7 4b11) came in second.[10]

RankNameScorePoints
1 Shauna Coxsey4t11 4b8100
2 Miho Nonaka3t7 4b1180
3 Akiyo Noguchi2t3 3b765
4 Petra Klingler1t3 3b455
5 Katja Kadic0t 3b651
6 Aya Onoe0t 1b547

Men

58 athletes attended the World Cup in Navi Mumbai. Jongwon Chon (4t10 4b10) won the World Cup in front of Rei Sugimoto (3t6 3b4). This left Chon, Rubtsov, and Watabe with a chance to claim the overall title at the final World Cup of the season in Munich.[10]

RankNameScorePoints
1 Jongwon Chon4t10 4b10100
2 Rei Sugimoto3t6 3b480
3 Alexey Rubtsov3t9 3b865
4 Kokoro Fujii1t1 3b955
5 Jakob Schubert1t1 3b1151
6 Tomoa Narasaki1t1 2b247

Munich, Germany (18–19 August)

Women

114 athletes attended the World Cup in Munich. Janja Garnbret (3t10 3b6) won her second World Cup of the season, thereby securing the second place overall. Shauna Coxsey (2t2 2b2) won the Silver medal. She had locked up the overall title before the Munich competition already.[11]

RankNameScorePoints
1 Janja Garnbret3t10 3b6100
2 Shauna Coxsey2t2 2b280
3 Akiyo Noguchi1t1 2b465
4 Stasa Gejo1t3 3b955
5 Alex Puccio1t3 2b451
6 Petra Klingler0t 1b447

Men

166 athletes attended the World Cup in Munich. Germany's Jan Hojer (4t10 4b6) won the World Cup in front of Tomoa Narasaki (3t6 3b3). However, Narasaki's four second places over the course of the season were not enough to defend his overall title. The overall title went to Jongwon Chon, who had come in fourth in Munich.[11]

RankNameScorePoints
1 Jan Hojer4t10 4b6100
2 Tomoa Narasaki3t6 3b380
3 Taisei Ishimatsu3t7 3b465
4 Jongwon Chon2t3 3b455
5 Yoshiyuki Ogata2t4 3b451
6 Kokoro Fujii2t9 2b647

Notes and References

  1. Web site: New IFSC 4 minute rule: from hero to zero . 3 April 2017 . 24 April 2018 . Siked! .
  2. Web site: IFSC and FloSports Sign Online Streaming Deal . 5 April 2017 . 24 April 2018 . . https://web.archive.org/web/20180424135839/http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/news/item/909-ifsc-and-flosports-sign-online-streaming-deal . 24 April 2018 . dead .
  3. Web site: The climbers speak: Open letter from the Athletes’ Commission . 11 April 2017 . 24 April 2018 . OnBouldering.com .
  4. Web site: Free streaming! The IFSC backtracks and cancels the FloClimbing deal . 12 April 2017 . 24 April 2018 . OnBouldering.com .
  5. Web site: Meiringen Bouldering World Cup 2017 Results . 8 April 2017 . 23 April 2018 . OnBouldering.com .
  6. Web site: Janja Garnbret and Jongwon Chon claim the gold in Chongqing . 23 April 2017 . 24 April 2018 . OnBouldering.com .
  7. Web site: Results Nanjing Bouldering World Cup 2017 . 30 April 2017 . 24 April 2018 . OnBouldering.com .
  8. Web site: Results Hachioji Bouldering World Cup 2017 . 7 May 2017 . 24 April 2018 . OnBouldering.com .
  9. Web site: Results Vail Bouldering World Cup 2017 . 11 June 2017 . 24 April 2018 . OnBouldering.com .
  10. Web site: Coxsey and Chon take the gold in Navi Mumbai. Coxsey has secured the overall title. . 25 June 2017 . 24 April 2018 . OnBouldering.com .
  11. Web site: Results Munich Bouldering World Cup 2017 . 19 August 2017 . 24 April 2018 . OnBouldering.com .

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