Better Cotton Initiative Explained

Better Cotton
Formation: (as Better Cotton Initiative)a
Type:Not-for-profit Swiss association[1]
Vat Id:CHE-317.159.900 MWST
Registration Id:Swiss UID CHE-317.159.900
Purpose:
Region:Worldwide
Website:https://bettercotton.org/

Better Cotton is a non-profit, multistakeholder governance group that promotes better standards in cotton farming and practices across 22 countries. As of 2023, Better Cotton accounts for 22% of global cotton production. In the 2022-2023 cotton season, 2.2 million licensed farmers grew 5.4 million tonnes of Better Cotton.[2] Partner retailers include H&M, Gap, IKEA, and Levi Strauss, and include funding partners from USAID.[3]

At the end of 2022, Better Cotton had over 2,563 members – 325 retailer and brand members, 2,171 supplier and manufacturer members, 17 producer organisation members, 34 civil society members and 16 associate members.[4] Better Cotton contributes towards the UN's goals to achieve better global water sustainability and sustainable agriculture.[5]

Better Cotton farmers receive training on how to use water efficiently, care for the health of the soil and natural habitats, minimise the impact of harmful crop protection practices, preserve fibre quality and apply decent work principles.[6] Better Cotton also promotes the use of better irrigation practices with farmers, as well as reducing the use of fertilizers. Some examples point to a 40% reduction in water use by farmers in Pakistan,[7] and a 53% decrease in overall pesticide use among Better Cotton farmers in India between the 2014-17 cotton seasons (used as a three-season average) and the 2021/2022 season.[8] Better Cotton is currently the only notable sustainability standard in the cotton sector that allows farmers to grow genetically modified cotton.[9] Some similar conservation efforts for cotton farming practices include Bayer's CropScience’s e3 sustainable cotton program.[10]

Definition

Better Cotton's "global definition" describes "better cotton" in terms of the behaviours of Better Cotton farmers:

History

Better Cotton started in a roundtable discussion by the World Wildlife Fund (WWF) in 2005. It exists to make global cotton production better for the people who produce it, better for the environment it grows in and better for the sector’s future.[12] Implementation of practices began in 2010 including regions and countries in Africa, as well as Brazil, India, and Pakistan. The initiative expanded to several other new countries in 2013 including China, Tajikistan, Turkey, and Mozambique.[13]

Initially named the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), the organisation changed its name to Better Cotton in 2021.[14]

Levi Strauss has released figures that donations to Better Cotton between 2009 and 2011 were approximately $600,000.

In March 2020, Better Cotton suspended licensing and assurance activities in the Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region of China due to "persistent allegations" of forced labor in the region.[15] In October 2020, Better Cotton ceased all field-level activities in Xinjiang, citing "sustained allegations of forced labour and other human rights abuses" in the region leading to "an increasingly untenable operating environment".[16] [17]

In March 2021, the Chinese consumers start to boycott companies who have vowed against using cotton in Xinjiang. Chinese consumers criticized H&M, which in September 2020 announced it would stop using a Chinese manufacturer accused with using forced labor, citing Better Cotton's decision to stop licensing Xinjiang cotton.[18] People's Daily named New Balance, Burberry and all Better Cotton members in online posts, calling for Chinese consumers to boycott these brands.[19] Chinese celebrities terminated endorsements of the companies mentioned.[20] Amid the boycotts, Chinese sportswear company Anta Sports announced it was exiting Better Cotton, citing their statement on Xinjiang as "seriously concerning".

On March 26, 2021, the Better Cotton Shanghai representative office said it found no evidence of forced labor in Xinjiang. The office stated that since 2012, the Xinjiang project site has performed second-party credibility audits and third-party verifications over the years, to reach their findings.[21] Better Cotton subsequently removed its October 2020 statement from its website regarding the ceasing of field-level activities in Xinjiang.[22]

Labor practices

Better Cotton advertises that it encourages fair work practices and reduction of child labor in countries such as India by raising public awareness.[23] The company has also worked with an independent consultancy, Ergon Associates in 2012 in a study to create formal policies, training partnerships, and research on farmer incomes, safety, and labor. In 2018 Terre des hommes Foundation (Tdh), the leading Swiss organisation for children’s aid, partnered with the Better Cotton to support cotton farmers, to address and prevent the risks of child labour and to promote decent work in cotton farming.[24]

Partners may use unannounced spot checks for work environments and conduct worker interviews to assess levels of child labor and bonded labor. The International Resources for Fairer Trade (IRFT) also organizes training sessions for work environments and topics on agronomics.[25]

Responses

In 2017, independent studies and journalistic investigations sought to demonstrate that Better Cotton was offering greenwashing solutions to firms or intermediate producers that are systematically resorting to child labour, forced labour, intensive irrigation or massive pesticide spraying.[26] They have accused Better Cotton of providing a marketable 'one-size-fits-all' consumer label to clothing firms that does not offer any information or guarantee in terms of social and environmental responsibility.[27] Better Cotton responded to these allegations as an unjustified representation of its activity.[28]

Notes and References

  1. Web site: 2022-23 Annual Report . 2023-09-28 . Better Cotton Initiative . 2023-11-22.
  2. News: Glover . Simon . 2023-09-28 . Better Cotton claims 22% of global production . 2023-09-28 . Ecotextile News.
  3. Web site: Better Cotton . live . https://web.archive.org/web/20081121183133/http://www.bettercotton.org/ . 2008-11-21 . 2017-04-16 . Better Cotton Initiative . en-US.
  4. News: 2023-09-28 . Better Cotton 2022-23 Annual Report . en-US.
  5. Web site: Better Cotton Initiative (BCI). supply-chain.unglobalcompact.org. en. 2017-04-16. 2017-04-29. https://web.archive.org/web/20170429175724/http://supply-chain.unglobalcompact.org/site/article/26. live.
  6. News: Mango commits to sustainable cotton sourcing. 2018-04-19. 2018-08-15. 2018-08-15. https://web.archive.org/web/20180815200933/https://www.just-style.com/news/mango-commits-to-sustainable-cotton-sourcing_id133339.aspx. live.
  7. News: Can the Better Cotton Initiative transform the global textile industry?. Confino. Jo. 2011-12-09. The Guardian. 2017-04-16. en-GB. 0261-3077. 2017-01-03. https://web.archive.org/web/20170103095102/https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/blog/cotton-sustainable-textile. live.
  8. Web site: 2023-09-18 . Better Cotton India reports sharp declines in pesticide and water use . 2024-01-26 . Home Textiles Today . en-US.
  9. Web site: Voora, V., Larrea, C., and Bermudez, S.. 2020. Global Market Report: Cotton. live. https://web.archive.org/web/20210212071020/https://www.iisd.org/ssi/commodities/cotton-coverage/. 2021-02-12. State of Sustainability Initiatives.
  10. News: Why Retailers Like Zara and Ikea Are Turning to Sustainable Cotton. 2016-10-20. Bloomberg.com. 2017-04-16. 2017-04-17. https://web.archive.org/web/20170417071713/https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2016-10-20/forget-organic-retailers-increasingly-are-turning-to-sustainable-cotton. live.
  11. Web site: Defining 'Better': Our Principles and Criteria . 2024-01-26 . Better Cotton . en-GB.
  12. News: Better Cotton Initiative benefits sector. 2014-08-21. Solidaridad Network. 2018-08-15. 2018-08-15. https://web.archive.org/web/20180815200947/https://www.solidaridadnetwork.org/case-studies/better-cotton-initiative-benefits-sector. live.
  13. News: BCI History - Better Cotton Initiative. Better Cotton Initiative. 2017-04-16. en-US. 2017-05-05. https://web.archive.org/web/20170505150201/http://bettercotton.org/about-bci/bci-history/. live.
  14. Web site: What's behind the logo? . 2024-01-09 . Better Cotton . en-GB.
  15. Web site: BCI Pulls Out of Xinjiang. 2021-03-28. 2021-03-27. https://web.archive.org/web/20210327144821/https://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache%3AMJIDWDenhG4J%3Ahttps%3A%2F%2Fwww.ecotextile.com%2F2020032725887%2Fmaterials-production-news%2Fbci-pulls-out-of-xinjiang.html+&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us&client=firefox-b-d. live.
  16. Web site: 21 October 2020. Xinjiang Uyghur Autonomous Region (XUAR) Update. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20201130201935/https://bettercotton.org/where-is-better-cotton-grown/china/announcement-bci-suspends-licensing-in-western-china/. 2020-11-30. 2021-03-26. Better Cotton Initiative.
  17. Web site: Clark. Evan. 2020-10-21. Better Cotton Initiative Stops Xinjiang Field Activity. live. 2021-03-29. WWD. en-US. 2021-03-29. https://web.archive.org/web/20210329002255/https://wwd.com/business-news/government-trade/bci-better-cotton-xinjiang-uyghur-china-field-1234641790/.
  18. Web site: McDonald. Joe. 2021-03-25. China attacks foreign clothing, shoe brands over Xinjiang. 2021-03-26. AP News. 2021-03-25. https://web.archive.org/web/20210325225609/https://apnews.com/article/china-boycott-hm-over-xinjiang-9e9a27b7179bd7a34330b8325ac37cdb. live.
  19. Web site: Ben Westcott and Laura He. H&M and Nike are facing a boycott in China over Xinjiang cotton statements. 2021-03-28. CNN. 25 March 2021 . 2021-04-18. https://web.archive.org/web/20210418112515/https://www.cnn.com/2021/03/25/business/hm-nike-xinjiang-cotton-boycott-intl-hnk/index.html. live.
  20. Web site: Zhang. Tianwei. Ap. Tiffany. Clark. Evan. 2021-03-25. Xinjiang Cotton: Li Ning, Anta Shares Surge While Nike, Adidas, Burberry Hit With Backlash. live. 2021-03-28. WWD. en-US. 2021-03-27. https://web.archive.org/web/20210327230352/https://wwd.com/business-news/retail/xinjiang-cotton-ban-china-nike-uniqlo-hm-1234787090/.
  21. News: BCI China Finds No Forced Labor. Reuters . 26 March 2021 . 2021-03-28. 2021-03-26. https://web.archive.org/web/20210326113542/https://www.reuters.com/article/us-bci-cotton-xinjiang/china-branch-of-cotton-trade-body-finds-no-forced-labour-in-xinjiang-idUSKBN2BI1KH?il=0. live.
  22. News: Allen-Ebrahimian. Bethany. April 13, 2021. Xinjiang statement removed from cotton watchdog website. Axios. April 14, 2021. April 13, 2021. https://web.archive.org/web/20210413155854/https://www.axios.com/xinjiang-cotton-watchdog-c32fd43b-16dd-4faf-a25a-2aebe9f892fd.html. live.
  23. News: Can going green help pick the slavery out of cotton?. 2017-02-10. Reuters. 2017-04-16. 2017-04-17. https://web.archive.org/web/20170417070906/http://www.reuters.com/article/us-india-cotton-slavery-idUSKBN15P011. live.
  24. Web site: Terre des hommes La plus grande organisation suisse d'aide à l'enfance. www.tdh.org. fr. 2018-08-16. 2018-08-15. https://web.archive.org/web/20180815132206/https://www.tdh.org/fr. live.
  25. Web site: Promoting decent work in cotton: GOOD PRACTICE AND GUIDANCE FOR BCI IMPLEMENTING PARTNERS. Oct 2013. 2016-04-26. 2017-04-17. https://web.archive.org/web/20170417155011/http://bettercotton.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/BCI_decent_work_oct_2013_final.pdf. live.
  26. News: Cash Investigation. 2017-11-30. fr. Cash Investigation. 2018-06-12. https://web.archive.org/web/20180612175831/https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_8dwxQGMgBw&feature=youtu.be. live. (France 2 official channel)
  27. News: BCI and the greening of cotton. 2017-11-30. en. Wageningen University & Research. 2017-12-01. https://web.archive.org/web/20171201032120/http://edepot.wur.nl/350927. live.
  28. News: Coton : épinglée par Cash Investigation, la Better Cotton Initiative répond. Guinebault. FashionNetwork.com, Matthieu. FashionNetwork.com. 2018-08-15. fr. 2018-08-15. https://web.archive.org/web/20180815201031/http://fr.fashionnetwork.com/news/Coton-epinglee-par-Cash-Investigation-la-Better-Cotton-Initiative-repond,896917.html#.Wh__rGW9VE5. live.

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