Beth Rodden Explained

Beth Rodden
Birth Date:5 April 1980
Birth Place:San Francisco, California, United States
Occupation:Rock climber

Beth Rodden (born April 5, 1980) is an American rock climber known for her ascents of hard single-pitch traditional climbing routes. She was the youngest woman to climb and is one of the only women in the world to have redpointed a traditional climbing graded climb. Rodden and fellow climber Tommy Caldwell were partners from 2000 to 2010, during which time they completed the second free ascent of The Nose. In 2008, Rodden made the first ascent of Meltdown, one of the hardest traditional climbs in the world and the first time in history that a female climber matched the peak of the highest climbing grades.

Climbing career

Rodden started climbing in 1995 at The Rocknasium, a local climbing gym in Davis, California. She won the Junior National JCCA Championships in 1996, 1997, and 1998; ranked first overall in the ASCF adult national series in 1997 and 1998; and placed third at the ASCF Fall Nationals in 1998.[1]

In 1998 Rodden redpointed the sport route To Bolt Or Not To Be, the historical first 5.14 established in America, and became the youngest woman to ascend 5.14a. Her work impressed free climbing pioneer Lynn Hill, who invited Rodden to make the first all-female ascent of Madagascar's Tsaranoro Massif in 1999. The trip to Madagascar marked Rodden's move to a less mainstream trad climbing career.[2] In 2000, she put up the first free ascent of Lurking Fear with Tommy Caldwell, marking El Capitan's second first free ascent by a woman.[2] With Lurking Fear and her 2005 free ascent of The Nose, she became the first woman to free climb two routes on El Capitan. In October 2005 she free-climbed The Optimist, becoming the first American woman to redpoint 5.14b.[3] In 2006, Beth and then husband Tommy Caldwell, competed in the 2006 Triple Crown Bouldering Series to raise money for climber's access.[4]

In February 2008, Rodden redpointed the first ascent of Meltdown, a thin sustained crack in Yosemite previously projected by Ron Kauk. A proposed grade of 5.14c made it the hardest pitch in Yosemite, and first ascent by a woman.[5] [6] Despite many talented climbers attempting it, it took 11 years for anyone to make a second ascent.[7]

Hostage in Kyrgyzstan

On a climbing trip to Kyrgyzstan's Kara Su Valley in August 2000, Rodden, then-boyfriend Tommy Caldwell, and fellow climbers Jason "Singer" Smith and photographer John Dickey were held hostage for six days by rebels from the Islamic Movement of Uzbekistan.[8] The four climbers overpowered one of their captors and escaped to a Kyrgyz army camp. During their capture they were forced to hide around the valley as their captors avoided the military. At midnight on August 18, the commander left them all to search for batteries for the radio as well as food, leaving only one guard, Ravshan Sharipov,[9] to watch the four captives. The ordeal finally ended when Tommy Caldwell pushed him off the edge of the cliff, although they learned later that Sharipov survived. About the decision to push Sharipov off, Beth stated: "It's so hard to think about that now, but we were afraid we wouldn't survive."[10] Their story was a brief sensation in the American media.[11]

The Kyrgyzstan incident is included in the 2017 film The Dawn Wall.

Rodden's climbing suffered and she did not travel internationally for a year. Then in October 2001 she climbed El Capitan in an Americares event to raise money for the families of 9/11 rescue personnel. She returned to the top tier of rock climbing, onsighting Phoenix, a 5.13a crack in Yosemite, in May 2002.

Personal life

Rodden met Tommy Caldwell through competition in 1995 and they started dating shortly before Kyrgyzstan.[12] They married in 2003, lived in Yosemite, and both worked establishing themselves as professional climbers. Rodden and Caldwell divorced in 2009.

In 2014, she had a son with husband Randy Puro.[13]

Rodden has also said that she struggled with an eating disorder early on in her career, and she currently criticizes the perceived importance of weight in the sport.[14]

Notable ascents

Filmography

See also

External links

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Heidi . Haas . Beth Rodden . Women Climbing . May 13, 2007 . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20070630221127/http://www.womenclimbing.com/climb/biodetail.asp?id=29 . June 30, 2007 .
  2. Book: Kate , Sibler . Schaffer . Grayson . Outside's Faces: The 25 Greatest Athletes Now . Outside's Bookazine Classics . 2005 . 32–35 .
  3. Web site: Joost . Emily Harrington climbs 5.14b (8c) . climbing.nl . February 18, 2007 . May 13, 2007 . https://web.archive.org/web/20070309090526/http://joost.climbing.nl/?p=285 . March 9, 2007 . dead .
  4. Web site: World Renowned Climbers, Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell, Compete at This Year's Triple Crown Bouldering Series. https://web.archive.org/web/20080807140508/http://www.prweb.com/releases/marmot/rock_creek_outfitters/prweb481491.htm. dead. August 7, 2008. PRWeb. February 25, 2019.
  5. Web site: Meltdown: Beth Rodden's Unrepeated Yosemite First Ascent . August 25, 2016.
  6. Web site: Watch Anak Verhoeven's First Ascent of Sweet Neuf (9a+5/5.15a). Climbing.com . October 3, 2017.
  7. Web site: Carlo Traversi Repeats "Meltdown" (5.14c?), Hardest Crack in Yosemite (and the World?) . Rock and Ice . November 8, 2018.
  8. Child . Greg . Greg Child . Special Reports: Fear of Falling . Outside Magazine . November 2000 . May 13, 2007 . https://web.archive.org/web/20171201042923/https://www.outsideonline.com/magazine/200011/200011hostages1.html . December 1, 2017 . dead .
  9. Web site: Mountaineering - Back from the Edge - Mountaineering - OutsideOnline.com. Outside Online.
  10. Rogers, Patrick, Maureen Harrington, and Eileen Finan. "His Life or Theirs." People 54.11 (2000): 97. Academic Search Complete. Web. May 3, 2012.
  11. Book: Child , Greg . Greg Child . Over the Edge: The True Story of Four American Climbers' Kidnap and Escape in the Mountains of Central Asia . Villard, Random House Publishing Group . April 2, 2002. 0-375-50609-8. Over the Edge (book) .
  12. Web site: From Kidnapping to Kids, My Life on and Off the rocks . May 2017 . Outside Magazine.
  13. Web site: Climbing Pregnant: Month 9: Letting Go and Holding On . Beth Rodden.
  14. Web site: Outside Online . Climbing's Send-at-All-Costs Culture Almost Ruined Me . Beth Rodden.
  15. Live It Up. Outside Magazine. Mariah Media Inc.. January 2006. May 13, 2007. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20100919001033/http://outsideonline.com/outside/features/200601/beth-rodden-tommy-caldwell-life-list.html. September 19, 2010.
  16. Stanley . Matt . High Points: Lurking Free . MountainZone.com . August 3, 2000. May 13, 2007.
  17. Web site: Cummins . Clint . Jim Herson . Jeff Schoen . Mark Hudon . Cummins . Clint . Yosemite - Long Hard Free Climbs . stanford.edu . March 2006 . May 13, 2007 . May 28, 2019 . https://web.archive.org/web/20190528011932/https://web.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm . dead .
  18. Micro Managing . . 128 . 29 . October 2003 . November 29, 2010.
  19. Schmidt . David . Hot Flashes: Rodden Redpoints Anaconda . Climbing . 224 . December 2005 . Primedia . May 13, 2007 . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20080207204521/http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/roddenanaconda/ . February 7, 2008 .
  20. MacDonald. Dougald. Caldwell-Rodden Free the Nose. Climbing. May 6, 2007. dead. https://web.archive.org/web/20071006101918/http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/thenosefree/. October 6, 2007.
  21. Wright . Cedar . Yosemite Valley: Various Activity . Alpinist . May 6, 2007.

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