Barathea, sometimes spelled barrathea,[1] is a soft fabric, with a broken twill weft rib, giving a surface that is lightly pebbled or ribbed, with the effect of a twill running both left and right. Originally developed as a cloth for mourning clothes in the 1840s, it took several decades to become popular for other purposes, due to its association with bereavement.[2]
The yarns used are various combinations of wool, silk and cotton. Worsted barathea (made with a smooth wool yarn) is often used for evening coats,[3] such as dress coats, dinner jackets, and military uniforms,[4] in black and midnight blue. Silk barathea, either all silk, or using cotton weft and silken warp, is widely used in the necktie industry.