Army Mountaineering Association Explained

The British Army Mountaineering Association (AMA) is the governing body for climbing competitions and the representative body for mountaineering in the British Army. It is a member of the British Mountaineering Council^[1] and is the largest climbing club in the United Kingdom.^[2]

Army Mountaineering Association
Formation:	1957
Type:	Charitable Association
Abbreviation:	AMA
Headquarters:	Joint Service Mountain Training Centre (Indefatigable), Llanfair PG, Anglesey, LL61 6NT.
Leader Title:	President
Leader Name:	Maj Gen David Southall^[3]
Membership:	circa 2,500
Website:	http://www.armymountaineer.org.uk/

History, Organisation and Status

The AMA was formed on 24 May 1957.^{[4] [5]} It has charitable status and its constitution states that it exists 'To promote military efficiency by encouraging mountaineering in the Army'. Membership is open to serving members of the British Army and the Army Reserve. Since its inception the AMA has been involved in delivering and supporting mountaineering activity for its members. The association is currently engaged in two major areas of activity which are: mountaineering and climbing competitions each of which is governed separately.

The business of the AMA is managed by an executive committee who are elected annually. Its current president is Major General David Southall^[6]

Mountaineering

The AMA organises mountaineering training and expeditions for its members and encourages them to organise their own expeditions. It makes grants from the AMA 'Memorial Fund' to help support individuals wishing to take part in significant mountaineering expeditions.^[7] Since its inception the AMA has organised or provided significant support to a number of major expedition to the Greater Ranges including:

• 1959 – Malubiting East (First Ascent)^{[8] [9] [10] [11]}
• 1960 – Annapurna II (First Ascent) (Joint Service)^[12]
• 1962 – Khunyang Chhish (also known as Khinyang Chhish)^{[13] [14]}
• 1967 - West Greenland - Kangerlussuatsiaq Fjord^[15]
• 1968 - East Greenland - Kristians Glacier^[16]
• 1969 – Tirich Mir^{[17] [18]}
• 1969 - North Greenland - Peary Land (Joint Service)(Army led)^[19]
• 1970 – Annapurna^{[17] [20]}
• 1971 - AMA West Greenland (Evighedsfjord).
• 1972 – Axel Heiberg Island^{[21] [22]}
• 1972 - Patagonia - Northern Patagonian Ice Field (Chile) - (Joint Services)(Army led)^{[23] [24]}
• 1973 - Himachal Pradesh Expedition^[25]
• 1974 – Lamjung Himal^[26]
• 1975 – Nuptse (Joint British Army/Royal Nepalese Army expedition)^{[27] [28]}
• 1976 – Mount Everest – South Col (Joint British Army/Royal Nepalese Army expedition)^{[29] [30]}
• 1978 - East Greenland - Scoresby Sound area.^[31]
• 1980 – Api^[32]
• 1982 - Ngadi Chuli (Peak 29) ^[33]
• 1985 – Kirat Chuli (Joint British Army/Royal Nepalese Army expedition)^[34]
• 1986 - Alpamayo^[35]
• 1987 – Shishapangma (Xixabangma) (Joint AMA / Civilian expedition)^[36]
• 1987 – Saser Kangri (First Ascent of Saser Kangri IV)^[37]
• 1988 – Mount Everest – West Ridge^[38]
• 1989 - East Greenland - Liverpool Land^[39]
• 1990 – Gyachung Kang^[40]
• 1992 – Annapurna IV^{[41] [42]}
• 1992 – Mount Everest – West Ridge
• 1994 – Mount Foraker – Archangel Ridge (Second Ascent)^{[43] [44]}
• 1996 – Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak)^{[45] [46]}
• 2000 – Kangchenjunga (Joint Service) – (Royal Navy lead)^[47]
• 2004 – Makalu (Joint Service – RAF Lead)^[48]
• 2006 – Mount Everest – West Ridge^[49]
• 2007 – Shishapangma^[50]
• 2008 – Makalu (Joint Service – RAF Lead)^[51]
• 2012 – Antarctica – Graham Land (Joint Service – British Army Lead)^{[52] [53]}
• 2015 – Mount Everest – North Ridge (Received AMA Support)^[54]
• 2017 – Putha Hiunchuli – Normal Route

Climbing Competitions

The AMA organises bouldering and indoor sport climbing competitions for the Army. The first Army level sport climbing competition was organised at Bristol by Colonel Paul John Edwards on 28 April 1995. The AMA continues to organise indoor climbing competitions and now competes annually against the Royal Navy and RAF, as well as contributing members to the Combined Services Sport Climbing team, which competes regularly against military sport climbers from other countries.^{[55] [56]}

Prominent AMA members

The following are current/former presidents, vice-presidents or Chairman of the AMA.^[4]

• Field Marshal Sir Gerald Templer KG, GCB, GCMG, KBE, DSO (President) (Loyal Regiment (North Lancashire))
• Brigadier John Hunt, Baron Hunt KG, CBE, DSO, PC (vice-president) (King's Royal Rifle Corps)
• Sir Chris Bonington CVO, CBE, DL (Honorary Vice-president) (Royal Tank Regiment)
• Lieutenant Colonel Tony Streather OBE (Honorary President) (Gloucestershire Regiment)

UIAGM Mountain Guides: The following AMA members have become members of the British Association of Mountain Guides

• Major Mac McKay (Royal Army Physical Training Corps)^[57]
• Captain Stuart McDonald (Royal Engineers) (Everest Summiteer).^{[58] [59]}
• Warrant Officer Class 1 Paul Chiddle (Royal Army Physical Training Corps)^[60]
• Captain Tania Noakes (Royal Signals)^[61]

Other notable AMA Members:

• Lieutenant Colonel Charles Wylie OBE (Ghurkas) – Organising Secretary to the 1953 British Mount Everest expedition.^[62]
• Lieutenant Colonel J. O. M. Roberts MVO,, MC (Ghurkas) – First Ascents of Annapurna II – 1960, Mera Peak – 20 May 1953 and Putha Hiunchuli – 11 November 1952.^{[63] [64]}
• Colonel Henry Day (Royal Engineers) – Member of the Tirich Mir expedition (1969), made the 2nd ascent (and first British ascent) of Annapurna 1970,.^[17] He was a member of the 1973 Himachal Pradesh expedition, and the Everest expedition (1976). He led an RE expedition to Trisul II (1978) and to the Da Xue Shan mountains (1981). He led the climbers attempting to climb the east face of Xixabangma (1987) and in 2008 organised a climbing expedition to the Georgian Causasus.
• Colonel Meryon Bridges, OBE, Royal Engineers was a member of the 1971 AMA Greenland (Evighedsfjord) and the 1972 AMA Alex Heiberg expeditions and then took part in eight Himalayan expeditions between 1973 and 1996, including Everest (1976), Api (1980), Everest (1992), and then led the successful Gasherbrum I (1996) expedition.
• Lieutenant Colonel Jon W A Fleming OBE Parachute Regiment (United Kingdom) – Deputy leader of Greenland expeditions 1967 & 1968, Leader of Tirich Mir Expedition 1969, Leader of Himachal Pradesh Expedition 1973 & Leader of Nuptse Expedition 1975, Organising Secretary Everest Expedition 1976, Co-author Soldiers on Everest.
• Lieutenant Colonel A J Muston, RAOC, MBE, FRGS. Vice President AMA, President, The Arctic Club (1995). Leader or member of 6 Army expeditions to Greenland in 1971, 1979, 1980, 1984, 1988, and 1989; leader Axel Heiberg, Canada expedition in 1972; and to the Himalayas in 1973 (Himachal Pradesh), 1975 (Nuptse), 1976 (Everest) and 1982 (West Nepal) with many other expeditions after leaving service in 1989 including an expedition to East Greenland in 2011.
• Major Sir Crispin Agnew of Lochnaw Bt, RHF, FRGS (1969) – Member RN Expedition to Greenland 1966, Leader Army East Greenland 1968, Member Joint Services Elephant Island Expedition 1970/71, Leader Joint Services Chilean Patagonia Expedition 1972/73, Member Nuptse Expedition 1975, Member Everest Expedition 1976, Leader Army Api Expedition 1980.
• Major Timothy King, RAOC. AMA Executive Committee member 1980 to 1989, Chair 1989 to 1992 and Chair Joint Services Mountaineering Committee. Started “The Army Mountaineer”, the Journal of the AMA.^[65] Leader of AMA Expeditions to Liverpool Land (1989); Sondestrom Fiord (1992); member of the Axel Heiberg Island (1972), Nuptse (1975), Everest (1976), and NE Greenland (1980) expeditions.
• Major Bronco Lane MM, BEM (Special Air Service) – Ascent of Everest, 16 May 1976^[66]
• John Stokes (mountaineer) (Brummy Stokes),, BEM (Special Air Service) – Ascent of Everest, 16 May 1976 with Bronco Lane^[66]
• Major Mike Smith (Royal Electrical and Mechanical Engineers) – UK veteran sport climbing champion 2009^[67]

External links

• Army Mountaineering Association – Official site

Notes and References

1. Web site: Find a club . . 16 April 2016.
2. Web site: Army Mountaineering Association . UKClimbing . 7 September 2022 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220907134537/https://www.ukclimbing.com/listings/climbing_clubs/army_mountaineering_association-130 . 2022-09-07 . live.
3. Web site: Transparency data: Joint Forces Command senior, as of September 2015. Ministry of Defence. 24 October 2016.
4. Book: Muston, A. J. . Mountain Moments . The formation of the Army Mountaineering Association . 6 . A. J. . Muston . Army Mountaineering Association . 27 March 2016 . 2 June 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20160602144708/http://www.armymountaineer.org.uk/media/Mountain%20Moments.pdf . live.
5. Web site: The A.M.A. Alpine Meet, 1959 . www.alpinejournal.org.uk . 11 April 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20210826045216/http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1960_files/AJ%201960%20214-219%20Mills%20AMA.pdf . 2021-08-26 . live.
6. Web site: Army hosts the European Military Climbing Championships . www.gov.uk . 27 October 2010 . 16 April 2016.
7. The AMA Memorial Fund . Army Mountaineer . Paul . Edwards . 24 . Summer 2007 . 27 March 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220305232032/http://www.armymountaineer.org.uk/media/2007-Summer.pdf . 2022-03-05 . live.
8. Book: Streather, H. R. A. . Mountain Moments . A word from the president 007 . Tony Streather . 11 . A. J. . Muston . Army Mountaineering Association . 27 March 2016 . 2 June 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20160602144708/http://www.armymountaineer.org.uk/media/Mountain%20Moments.pdf . live .
9. Web site: Footless Crow: Army Dreamer....... A Portrait of Tony Streather . footlesscrow.blogspot.co.uk . 22 November 2013. 26 March 2016.
10. Book: Military Mountaineering, page 41 . Lane, Bronco . 2000 . hayloft . 0-9523282-1-6.
11. Web site: Army Mountaineering Association Expedition, 1959 . www.alpinejournal.org.uk . 6 May 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20200715062404/http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1960_files/AJ%201960%2037-47%20Streather%20Karakoram.pdf . 2020-07-15 . live.
12. Book: Military Mountaineering, page 46 . Lane, Bronco . 2000 . hayloft . 0-9523282-1-6.
13. Web site: The HJ/24/14 KHINYANG CHHISH, 1962 . www.himalayanclub.org . 31 March 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220517013518/https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/24/14/khinyang-chhish-1962/ . 2022-05-17 . live.
14. Book: Military Mountaineering, page 49 . Lane, Bronco . 2000 . hayloft . 0-9523282-1-6.
15. Web site: Alpine Journal 1968 Sukkertoppen Wedding Cate: the Army Mountaineering Expedition, 1967 . https://web.archive.org/web/20180614181613/https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1968.html . 2018-06-14 . live.
16. Web site: Alpine Journal Notes Army East Greenland Expedition 1968 . https://web.archive.org/web/20200717234015/http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1969_files/AJ%201969%20276-287%20Notes%20Greenland.pdf . 2020-07-17 . live.
17. Web site: Annapurna-North face route . www.alpinejournal.org.uk . 26 March 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20210713233338/http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1971_files/AJ%201971%2088-98%20Day%20Annapurna.pdf . 2021-07-13 . live.
18. Book: Military Mountaineering, page 62 . Lane, Bronco . 2000 . hayloft . 0-9523282-1-6.
19. Web site: Alpine Journal 1970, Notes - Greenland . https://web.archive.org/web/20180614181620/https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1970.html . 2018-06-14 . live.
20. Book: Military Mountaineering, page 102 . Lane, Bronco . 2000 . hayloft . 0-9523282-1-6.
21. Pushing the Limits: The Story of Canadian Mountaineering Published by Rocky Mountain Books, Calgary, Canada. Year 2000 page 300
22. Book: Military Mountaineering, page 109 . Lane, Bronco . 2000 . hayloft . 0-9523282-1-6.
23. The Geographical JournalVol. 140, No. 2 (Jun. 1974), pp. 262-268 https://www.jstor.org/stable/1797083?seq=1#page_scan_tab_contents
24. Book: Military Mountaineering, page 111 . Lane, Bronco . 2000 . hayloft . 0-9523282-1-6.
25. Web site: Alpine Journal 1974 The Army Mountaineering Association Himachal Praedesh Expedition 1973 . https://web.archive.org/web/20180614181640/https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1974.html . 2018-06-14 . live.
26. Book: Military Mountaineering, page 114 . Lane, Bronco . 2000 . hayloft . 0-9523282-1-6.
27. Web site: Nuptse 1975 . www.alpinejournal.org.uk . 26 March 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20180319214809/http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1976_files/AJ%201976%20107-116%20Fleming%20Nuptse.pdf . 2018-03-19 . live.
28. Book: Military Mountaineering, page 121 . Lane, Bronco . 2000 . hayloft . 0-9523282-1-6.
29. Web site: The HJ/35/9 EVEREST, 1976 . www.himalayanclub.org . 26 March 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220602025457/https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/35/9/everest-1976/ . 2022-06-02 . live.
30. Book: Military Mountaineering, page 124 . Lane, Bronco . 2000 . hayloft . 0-9523282-1-6.
31. Book: Military Mountaineering, page 136 . Lane, Bronco . 2000 . hayloft . 0-9523282-1-6.
32. Web site: Soldiers on Api . www.alpinejournal.org.uk . 27 March 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220706013653/http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1981_files/AJ%201981%20167-171%20Agnew%20Api.pdf . 2022-07-06 . live.
33. Book: Military Mountaineering, page 171 . Lane, Bronco . 2000 . hayloft . 0-9523282-1-6.
34. Web site: Mount Everest Foundation Notes 1985-86 . 241 . 27 March 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20200712151140/http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1987_files/AJ%201987%20238-243%20MEF%20Notes.pdf . 2020-07-12 . live.
35. Book: Military Mountaineering, page 187 . Lane, Bronco . 2000 . hayloft . 0-9523282-1-6.
36. Book: Military Mountaineering, page 188 . Lane, Bronco . 2000 . hayloft . 0-9523282-1-6.
37. Book: Military Mountaineering, page 195 . Lane, Bronco . 2000 . hayloft . 0-9523282-1-6.
38. Web site: JG News :: Everest West Ridge Launch . www.jagged-globe.co.uk . 26 March 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220907141123/https://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/news/item.php?id=656 . 2022-09-07 . live.
39. Liverpool Land . Alpine Journal . Tim . King . 142–144 . 1990 . https://web.archive.org/web/20200712141502/http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1990-91_files/AJ%201990%20142-144%20King%20Liverpool%20Land.pdf . 2020-07-12 . live.
40. Book: Military Mountaineering, page 213 . Lane, Bronco . 2000 . hayloft . 0-9523282-1-6.
41. An account of the British Joint Services Annapurna II and IV Expedition. . Army Mountaineer . S. R. . Wilson . 4 . Winter 1994 . 27 March 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220521204000/http://www.armymountaineer.org.uk/media/1994-Winter.pdf . 2022-05-21 . live.
42. Book: Military Mountaineering, page 223 . Lane, Bronco . 2000 . hayloft . 0-9523282-1-6.
43. Book: Military Mountaineering, page 243 . Lane, Bronco . 2000 . hayloft . 0-9523282-1-6.
44. Web site: North America 1993 . www.alpinejournal.org.uk . 16 April 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20200722211751/http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1994_files/AJ%201994%20274-276%20North%20America.pdf . 2020-07-22 . live.
45. Book: Bridges, Meryon . Mountain Moments . The ballad of Avon Gorge . 26 . A. J. . Muston . Army Mountaineering Association . 27 March 2016 . 2 June 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20160602144708/http://www.armymountaineer.org.uk/media/Mountain%20Moments.pdf . live.
46. Book: Military Mountaineering, page 254 . Lane, Bronco . 2000 . hayloft . 0-9523282-1-6.
47. Web site: Bluedome . www.bluedome.co.uk . 26 March 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20210225211920/http://www.bluedome.co.uk/Kangchenjunga2000/seniorteam.html . 2021-02-25 . live.
48. Web site: The British Services Makalu Expedition 2004 . www.rafactive.co.uk . 26 March 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20171216220555/http://www.rafactive.co.uk/e23/e23makalu.html . 2017-12-16 . dead.
49. Web site: Everest 2006: British West Ridge Expedition: ARMY ON EVEREST TEAM NOW AT CAMP THREE . www.everestnews.com . 26 March 2016.
50. Ski Shishapangma . RAF Mountaineering Association . Rimon . Than . Mark . Catt . 32–34 . 2007 . 26 March 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20130402190140/http://raf.mod.uk/rafmountaineering/rafcms/mediafiles/5C7A780E_1143_EC82_2E805E5E507705ED.pdf . 2013-04-02 . dead.
51. Web site: Award for Makalu expedition . www.thebmc.co.uk . Tina . Gardner . 23 March 2009 . 26 March 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20180319213919/https://www.thebmc.co.uk/award-for-makalu-expedition . 2018-03-19 . live.
52. Web site: To Strive, To Seek, To Find. and Not to Yield . www.bsae2012.co.uk . 14 April 2018 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220821071110/http://www.bsae2012.co.uk/ . 2022-08-21 . live.
53. British Services Antartic Expedition 2012 . Army Mountaineer . Paul . Edwards . 6–9 . Summer 2012 . 27 March 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220305232108/http://www.armymountaineer.org.uk/media/AMASummer2012.pdf . 2022-03-05 . live.
54. Web site: British Army Team Ready to Scale Everest . Alistair . Bunkall . 23 February 2014 . 16 April 2016 . 11 June 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20160611032601/http://news.sky.com/story/1215853/british-army-team-ready-to-scale-everest . dead .
55. Web site: Army Sports Contracts . ASCB . 16 April 2015.
56. Sport Climbing Championships . Army Mountaineer . P. L. . Fish . 8 . Autumn 1995 . 26 March 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220305232106/http://www.armymountaineer.org.uk/media/1995-Autumn.pdf . 2022-03-05 . live.
57. Web site: mac mackay / Guides K-M / Members / British Mountain Guides. BMG. 26 March 2016. https://web.archive.org/web/20140114111456/http://www.bmg.org.uk/index.php/eng/Members/Guides-K-M/mac-mackay. 14 January 2014. dead.
58. Web site: Stuart Macdonald / Guides K-M / Members / British Mountain Guides. BMG. 26 March 2016. https://web.archive.org/web/20130704152451/http://www.bmg.org.uk/index.php/eng/Members/Guides-K-M/Stuart-Macdonald. 4 July 2013. dead.
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60. Web site: Paul Chiddle / Guides A-C / Members / British Mountain Guides. BMG. 26 March 2016. https://web.archive.org/web/20160401211840/http://www.bmg.org.uk/index.php/eng/Members/Guides-A-C/Paul-Chiddle. 1 April 2016. dead.
61. Web site: Tania Noakes / Guides N-Q / Members / British Mountain Guides. BMG. 26 March 2016. https://web.archive.org/web/20160328120903/http://www.bmg.org.uk/index.php/eng/Members/Guides-N-Q/Tania-Noakes. 28 March 2016. dead.
62. Web site: Lieutenant-Colonel Charles Wylie . www.telegraph.co.uk . 27 July 2007 . 23 April 2016 . subscription . https://web.archive.org/web/20180728221438/https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/obituaries/military-obituaries/gurkha-obituaries/1558607/Lieutenant-Colonel-Charles-Wylie.html . 2018-07-28 . dead.
63. Web site: Obituary: Lt-Col James Roberts . www.independent.co.uk . Stephen . Venables . 26 November 1997 . 16 April 2016 . registration . https://web.archive.org/web/20210513102038/https://www.independent.co.uk/news/obituaries/obituary-ltcol-james-roberts-1296352.html . 2021-05-13 . dead.
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65. Web site: Home . Army Mountaineering Association.
66. Web site: Michael Bronco Lane Interview . 16 May 2016 . https://web.archive.org/web/20181026034257/http://www.everest1953.co.uk/michael-bronco-lane . 2018-10-26 . dead.
67. Web site: BMC BLCC juniors and veterans results 2009. thebmc.co.uk. Rob. Adie. July 19, 2009. September 7, 2022. https://web.archive.org/web/20200805230218/https://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmc-blcc-juniors-and-veterans-results-2009 . 2020-08-05. live.