Angela Eiter Explained

Angela Eiter
Nickname:Angy
Nationality:Austrian
Birth Date:27 January 1986
Birth Place:Arzl im Pitztal, Austria
Occupation:Professional rock climber
Height:154 cm
Weight:46 kg
Updated:8 May 2013
Show-Medals:yes

Angela "Angy" Eiter (born 27 January 1986 in Arzl im Pitztal) is an Austrian professional rock climber who specialises in competition climbing and sport climbing. In competition lead climbing, she won three IFSC World Cups in a row (2004–2006), and four IFSC World Championships. In 2011, she achieved her 25th win in World Cup and her 42nd podium. She is also one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, and in 2017, became the first-ever female in history to climb a route, La Planta de Shiva. In 2020, she became the first-ever female in history to complete the first free ascent (FFA) of a route, Madame Ching.

Climbing career

Competition climbing

Eiter started climbing at age eleven when her school offered her the chance to try the sport. Her parents accompanied her to the climbing gym in Imst. At fifteen, she climbed her first indoor . In 2002, having reached the age of sixteen, she began to participate in the World Cup lead climbing.

In 2003, she won her first Cup race at Aprica. Since then she has won three World Cups in a row: in 2004,[1] in 2005, winning eight out of nine events[2] and in 2006, winning seven out of ten events.[3] She won four world championships in the competition lead climbing specialty: the 2005 edition in Munich,[4] the 2007 edition in Avilés,[5] the 2011 edition in Arco,[6] and the 2012 edition in Paris.[7]

For her achievements, she was awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2006.[8]

In September 2008, during the third round of the World Cup in Bern, she had a serious accident damaging her left shoulder, for which she underwent arthroscopic surgery.[9] She had to prematurely end the season and deal with nine months' rehabilitation. She started to compete the following July at the Climbing World Championship 2009 in Qinghai.

Rock climbing

On September 6, 2014, Eiter climbed the route Hades at Nassereith, Austria. She is the sixth woman to climb this grade or higher. On October 22, 2017, she climbed La Planta de Shiva (Villanueva del Rosario, Spain), widely considered to be a route, becoming the world's first-ever female to climb at grade. In 2020, she did the first free ascent (FFA) of Madame Ching (which she named after Ching Shih) in Imst, Austria, and suggested the grade of 9b (5.15b) for it, which would make it the world's first-ever female FFA at that grade.[10] [11]

Rankings

Climbing World Cup

Discipline20022003200420052006200720082009201020112012
Lead18311121343435
Bouldering----1533-----
Combined----12-----

Climbing World Championships

Discipline200320052007200920112012
Lead711511
Bouldering--8---

Climbing European Championships

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead

SeasonGoldSilverBronzeTotal
2002 0
2003 2 3 5
2004 4 1 5
2005 8 1 9
2006 7 1 1 9
2007 2 3 5
2008 1 1
2009 2 2
2010 2 2
2011 2 1 1 4
Total 25 13 4 42

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

Onsighted routes

See also

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Mrazek and Eiter win the World Cup Difficulty 2004. planetmountain.com. 23 November 2004. 8 May 2013.
  2. Web site: Flavio Crespi and Angela Eiter win World Cup 2005. planetmountain.com. Vinicio Stefanello. 21 November 2005. 8 May 2013.
  3. Web site: World Cup Lead 2006 won by Patxi Usobiaga and Angela Eiter in Kranj. planetmountain.com. 24 November 2006. 8 May 2013.
  4. Web site: Tomas Mrazek and Angela Eiter World Champions. planetmountain.com. Vinicio Stefanello. 4 July 2005. 8 May 2013.
  5. Web site: IX Climbing World Championship Aviles: full results. planetmountain.com. 24 September 2007. 8 May 2013.
  6. Web site: Angela Eiter World Champion Lead in Arco. planetmountain.com. 23 July 2011. 8 May 2013.
  7. Web site: World Climbing Championships 2012, all the results from Paris.. planetmountain.com. Franz Schiassi. 17 September 2012. 8 May 2013.
  8. Web site: Josune Bereziartu and Angela Eiter top the Arco Rock Legends 2006. rockmaster.com. 23 May 2013. https://web.archive.org/web/20160121105323/http://www.rockmaster.com/articolo.lasso?cl=9&lvl1=81&lvl2=901&sez=1&l=2&keyid=229. 21 January 2016. dead.
  9. Web site: Climbing break for Angy Eiter after shoulder surgery. angelaeiter.com. 26 September 2008. 8 May 2013. https://web.archive.org/web/20130921060356/http://www.angelaeiter.com/index.php?id=417&no_cache=1&L=1&tx_ttnews%5Bpointer%5D=27&tx_ttnews%5Btt_news%5D=116&tx_ttnews%5BbackPid%5D=416. 21 September 2013. dead.
  10. Web site: Angy Eiter Completes 5.15b First Ascent (Story + Photo Gallery). 17 December 2020.
  11. Web site: NEWSFLASH: 9b First Ascent for Angela Eiter. www.ukclimbing.com. 16 December 2020 .
  12. Web site: Interview with Angela Eiter, the first woman to climb 9b. Planet Mountain. 24 October 2017.
  13. Web site: Angela Eiter climbs historic first female 9b. Planet Mountain. 23 October 2017.
  14. Web site: 2020-12-17. Angy Eiter Sends New 5.15b with Madame Ching in Austria. 2020-12-18. Gripped Magazine. en-US.
  15. Web site: Angy Eiter is Not Slowing Down. 10 July 2019.
  16. Web site: Angela Eiter and Anak Verhoeven climb 9a at Margalef in Spain. PlanetMountain.com.
  17. Web site: Angela Eiter climbs Big Hammer, her second 9a. PlanetMountain.com.
  18. Web site: Angela Eiter Climbs Hades (5.14d) . 14 October 2014 . 16 October 2014 . DPM Magazine . https://web.archive.org/web/20141018212617/http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/angela-eiter-climbs-hades-514d . 18 October 2014 . dead .
  19. Web site: Angela Eiter climbs 9a: Hades at Götterwandl in Austria. PlanetMountain.com.
  20. Web site: Angy Eiter climbs Ingravids Extension, 8c+. ukclimbing.com. November 27, 2010.
  21. Web site: Arrampicata: Angela Eiter sale Claudio Caffè 8c+. planetmountain.com. May 31, 2007.
  22. Web site: Angela Eiter in gran forma. up-climbing.com. October 5, 2009. October 25, 2017. https://web.archive.org/web/20091008082831/http://www.up-climbing.com/it/news/falesia/angela-eiter-in-gran-forma. October 8, 2009. dead.
  23. Web site: Angela Eiter vola a-vista verso Skyline 8b. planetmountain.com. September 21, 2006.
  24. Web site: Angela Eiter boulders 8b at Rocklands in South Africa. planetmountain.com. August 26, 2014.

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