Annapurna Explained

Annapurna
Elevation M:8091
Elevation Ref:
Prominence M:2984
Prominence Ref:[1] [2]
Ranked 94th
Map:Nepal
Label Position:right
Coordinates:28.5961°N 83.8203°W
First Ascent:3 June 1950
Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal
(First winter ascent 3 February 1987 Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer)[3]
Easiest Route:northwest face

Annapurna (;[4] Nepali: अन्नपूर्ण) is a mountain situated in the Annapurna mountain range of Gandaki Province, north-central Nepal. It is the 10th highest mountain in the world at 8091m (26,545feet) above sea level and is well known for the difficulty and danger involved in its ascent.

Maurice Herzog led a French expedition to its summit through the north face in 1950, making it the first eight-thousander to be successfully climbed.[5] The entire massif and surrounding area are protected within the 7629km2 Annapurna Conservation Area, the first and largest conservation area in Nepal. The Annapurna Conservation Area is home to several world-class treks, including Annapurna Sanctuary and Annapurna Circuit.

For decades, Annapurna I held the highest fatality-to-summit rate of all principal eight-thousander summits; it has, however, seen great climbing successes in recent years, with the fatality rate falling from 32% to under 20% from 2012 to 2022. This figure places it just under the most recent fatality rate estimates for K2, at about 24%. The mountain still poses grave threats to climbers through avalanche danger, unpredictable weather and the extremely steep and committing nature of its climbing routes, in particular its 3000m (10,000feet) south face, renowned as one of the most difficult climbs in the world.[6] It is also a dangerous peak for trekkers, as in the case of a 2014 snowstorm near it and Dhaulagiri which claimed at least 43 lives. As of 2022, 365 people had reached the summit of Annapurna I, while 72 had died in the attempt.

Etymology

The mountain is named after Annapurna, the Hindu goddess of food and nourishment, who is said to reside there. The name Annapurna is derived from the Sanskrit-language words purna ("filled") and anna ("food"), and can be translated as "everlasting food".[7] Many streams descending from the slopes of the Annapurna Massif provide water for the agricultural fields and pastures located at lower elevations.[8]

Climbing expeditions

See also: 1950 French Annapurna expedition and 1970 British Annapurna South Face expedition. Annapurna I was the first 8000-2NaN-2 peak to be climbed.[9] Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal, of the French Annapurna expedition led by Herzog (including Lionel Terray, Gaston Rébuffat, Marcel Ichac, Jean Couzy, Marcel Schatz, Jacques Oudot, Francis de Noyelle), reached the summit on 3 June 1950.[10] Ichac made a documentary of the expedition, called Victoire sur l'Annapurna. Its summit was the highest summit attained till that time, but not the highest climb; higher non-summit points – at least 8500m (27,900feet) – had already been attained on Mount Everest in the 1920s.

The south face of Annapurna was first climbed in 1970 by Don Whillans and Dougal Haston also without using supplementary oxygen, members of a British expedition led by Chris Bonington that included Ian Clough, who was killed by a falling serac during the descent. They were, however, beaten to the second ascent of Annapurna by a matter of days by a British Army expedition led by Colonel Henry Day.

In 1978, the American Women's Himalayan Expedition, a team led by Arlene Blum, became the first United States team to climb Annapurna I. The first summit team, composed of Vera Komarkova and Irene Miller, and Sherpas Mingma Tsering and Chewang Ringjing, reached the top at 3:30 pm on 15 October 1978. The second summit team, Alison Chadwick-Onyszkiewicz and Vera Watson, died during this climb.[11]

In 1981 Polish expedition Zakopane Alpine Club set a new route on Annapurna I Central (8051 m). Maciej Berbeka and Bogusław Probulski reached the summit on 23 May 1981. The route called Zakopiańczyków Way was recognized as the best achievement of the Himalayan season in 1981.

On 3 February 1987, Polish climbers Jerzy Kukuczka and Artur Hajzer made the first winter ascent of Annapurna I.[12]

The first solo ascent of the south face was made in October 2007 by Slovenian climber Tomaž Humar;[13] [14] [15] [16] he climbed to the Roc Noir and then to Annapurna East (8,047m).[17]

On 8 and 9 October 2013 Swiss climber Ueli Steck soloed the Lafaille route[17] on the main and highest part of the face;[18] this was his third attempt on the route and has been called "one of the most impressive Himalayan climbs in history",[19] with Steck taking 28 hours to make the trip from Base Camp to summit and back again.[20]

Flights

Several airlines offer sightseeing flights over Annapurna.[21]

Fatality rate

Along with K2 and Nanga Parbat, Annapurna I has consistently ranked as one of the most dangerous of the principal eight-thousander summits. Climbers killed on the peak include Britons Ian Clough in 1970 and Alex MacIntyre in 1982, Frenchman Pierre Béghin in 1992, Kazakh Russian Anatoli Boukreev in 1997, Spaniard Iñaki Ochoa in 2008,[22] Korean Park Young-seok in 2011[23] and the Finn Samuli Mansikka in 2015.[24]

See also

Bibliography

Further reading

External links

Notes and References

  1. 10621. Annapurna. 12 January 2009.
  2. Web site: Nepal/Sikkim/Bhutan Ultra-Prominences. peaklist.org . 12 January 2009. https://web.archive.org/web/20081225145550/http://www.peaklist.org/WWlists/ultras/everest.html. 25 December 2008 . live.
  3. Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Winter Ascent: Kukuczka's 13th 8000er, 1987 . American Alpine Journal. 1987. 0065-6925 . Elizabeth . Hawley . 978-0930410292 .
    1. 29
    . 61. 251 . 25 May 2024 .
  4. Encyclopedia: Annapurna . https://web.archive.org/web/20210415172854/https://www.lexico.com/definition/Annapurna . dead . 2021-04-15 . Lexico UK English Dictionary . Oxford University Press.
  5. Web site: The Eight-Thousanders. 17 December 2013 .
  6. Web site: Complete ascent — fatalities statistics of all 14 main 8000ers . 8000ers.com . 19 June 2008 . 30 May 2013.
  7. Book: Julie Loar. Goddesses for Every Day: Exploring the Wisdom and Power of the Divine Feminine Around the World. 2011. New World Library. 978-1-57731-950-4. 287–.
  8. Book: Edith Rogovin Frankel. Walking in the Mountains: A Woman's Guide. 15 September 2003. Derrydale Press. 978-1-4617-0829-2. 9–.
  9. News: Stairway to heaven. 29 May 2013. The Economist. 30 May 2013 .
  10. Herzog, 1953, p. 257.
  11. Blum, 1980.
  12. Web site: 8000m Peak . summitpost.org . 26 June 2011. https://web.archive.org/web/20070519073126/http://www.summitpost.org/list/171372/8000m-peaks.html. 19 May 2007. live.
  13. Web site: New Alpine Solo Route on the South Face of Annapurna . russianclimb.com . 26 June 2011. https://web.archive.org/web/20110617102657/http://www.russianclimb.com/humar_annapurna.html. 17 June 2011 . live.
  14. Web site: Climbing Annapurna: Tomaz Humar. Outside. 29 January 2008. 26 June 2011. https://web.archive.org/web/20100429145131/http://outside.away.com/outside/culture/200802/tomaz-humar-annapurna.html. 29 April 2010. live.
  15. Web site: Tomaz Humar klettert solo durch die Annapurna Südwand . Bergsteigen.at . de . 30 May 2013 . https://web.archive.org/web/20121107121516/http://www.bergsteigen.at/de/bericht.aspx?ID=12687 . 7 November 2012 . dead .
  16. Web site: Von: Text: adidas eyewear . Tomaz Humar glückt Erstbegehung am Annapurna im Alpinstil - Climbing.de - Alle Infos für Bergsteiger und Kletterer . Climbing.de. de . 26 November 2007 . 30 May 2013.
  17. http://www.russianclimb.com/annapurna/2008/anna2008.jpg "Annapurna South Face Routes"
  18. http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41296 "Ueli Steck and Annapurna: the interview after his South Face solo"
  19. http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68404 "Steck Solos Annapurna South Face"
  20. http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68412 "Annapurna South Face Solo - 28 Hours"
  21. Web site: Annapurna flying- Nepali Times . 2023-07-18 . archive.nepalitimes.com.
  22. Web site: It's over: Iñaki Ochoa lost on Annapurna. mounteverest.net. 23 May 2008. 26 June 2011. https://web.archive.org/web/20091015043016/http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=17303. 15 October 2009. dead.
  23. Web site: Woo . Jaeyeon . With Park Gone, Korea Loses Its Trailblazer. The Wall Street Journal. Korea Real Time (blog) . 31 October 2011 . 17 November 2011.
  24. Web site: Farewell Samuli Mansikka, the fearless Finn . 2 April 2015 .