Alexandra Byrne Explained

Alexandra Byrne
Nationality:British
Children:4[1]
Years Active:1995–present
Occupation:Costume designer

Alexandra Byrne (born 1962) is an English costume designer. Much of her career has focused on creating costumes for period dramas. These films include Persuasion (1995), Hamlet (1996), Elizabeth (1998), Finding Neverland (2004), The Phantom of the Opera (2004), (2007), Mary Queen of Scots (2018), The Aeronauts (2019), and Emma. (2020). She has been nominated for the Academy Award for Best Costume Design six times, winning once for Elizabeth: The Golden Age.

Since 2011, Byrne has also designed the costumes for many films in the Marvel Cinematic Universe, including Thor (2011), The Avengers (2012), Guardians of the Galaxy (2014), (2015), Doctor Strange (2016), and (2025).

Life and career

Early life

Byrne was born in Hampshire, and grew up amidst many artistic influences. She was raised in Stratford-upon-Avon, where the Royal Shakespeare Company is based. She would later tell an interviewer that her career in theatre design was predestined,[2] and she began by studying architecture with the intention of building sets in theatre.[3] She encountered costume design when studying theatre design with the English National Opera. She later said, "I worked in the theatre for quite a few years, doing costume and set design. In England, it's very much both."[4] She also trained with the Motley Theatre Design Course.[5]

Byrne oversaw scenery and costumes for the 1989 comedy play Some Americans Abroad.[6] Her work earned her a Tony Award nomination for Best Scenic Design. Despite her success, she was unsure if she would focus on set design or costume design. She decided on the latter when she was working on a television project for the BBC's Shakespeare series. Byrne said, "I was assisting a costume designer who was fantastic with fabric. It was with her that I actually thought, 'This is what it's all about. This is what I want to do'".[4]

In 1993, Byrne created the costumes for all four parts of the TV serial The Buddha of Suburbia starring Naveen Andrews.[7] [8] For her costume work in the production, she received a nomination at the British Academy Television Awards.[9]

Period films (1995–2007)

Byrne's first encounter with period costume dramas began when she was hired to create the costumes for the BBC film Persuasion. The production was an adaptation of the novel of the same name by Jane Austen, and featured Amanda Root as Anne Elliot.[2] [10] Byrne had also worked with the film's director, Roger Michell, on Some Americans Abroad and The Buddha of Suburbia.[11] For her work in Persuasion, Byrne won the British Academy Television Award for Costume Design.[12] The following year, Byrne created the costumes for the 1996 film Hamlet directed by and starring Kenneth Branagh,[7] with whom she had previously worked on Life of Napoleon.[13] She received her first Academy Award nomination for Best Costume Design.[14] [15] In 1998, Byrne served as the costume designer for the feature film Elizabeth, which starred Cate Blanchett as the last Tudor monarch.[16] It featured high production values despite a limited budget. Director Shekhar Kapur discouraged historical research on Byrne's part, instead favouring clothing that focused on emotion.[17] As a result, Byrne primarily designed costumes emphasising the theatrical rather than the historically accurate. When analysing the film, the scholar Bethany Latham stated that the production's silhouettes were "understated and barely Elizabethan," as they were not meant to distract from the film's plot among viewers. For Elizabeth, Byrne earned her second Academy Award nomination for Best Costume Design.

Byrne oversaw the costumes for the 2004 film Finding Neverland starring Johnny Depp and Kate Winslet.[2] After completing it, Byrne said that when she worked on "a period film, however conceptual a piece it is, I research the period completely so that I absolutely know it. There were photographs from the first production of Peter Pan and of the Llewelyn Davies family".[3] That year, Daily Variety reported that Byrne's "previous two Oscar noms make her a known commodity",[18] and she again garnered a nomination for Best Costume Design at the Academy Awards.[19]

Also in 2004, Byrne designed the costumes for the film The Phantom of the Opera.[20] As research, she studied relics of the era such as paintings and original clothing. Her visits to Paris also gave her inspiration. As her ideas developed and were discussed with the filmmakers, they were placed on a "mood board" of visuals for her to reference. She eventually created 300 original costumes for the main characters, and produced at least 2,000 additional costumes for those in the background.[21]

In 2007, Byrne designed the costumes for Elizabeths sequel , also starring Blanchett. As the sequel was set 27 years later, Byrne sought to create costumes for a confident queen "who has found her stride and established her style". Kapur did not feel Elizabeth: The Golden Age had to be historically accurate, giving Byrne the freedom to make his film "look very different, much lighter, with a more feminine court".[16] For her costume design work in the film, Byrne was again nominated for the Academy Award, this time winning.[22] [23]

Marvel films (2011–2016)

Since 2011, much of Byrne's career has focused on films in the Marvel Cinematic Universe. Her first contribution to the franchise, Thor (2011), resulted when she was hired by the film's director, Kenneth Branagh.[2] [24] She had also worked with Branagh on previous productions such as Hamlet (1996)[25] and Sleuth (2007).[26] Byrne took inspiration from the Thor comics and the artwork of Jack Kirby, which she described as "amazing". She later said that for Thor's character, "it's all about his arms". After Thor, Byrne's next Marvel project was the 2012 film The Avengers, where she oversaw a team of over 60 people.[27]

She followed The Avengers with Guardians of the Galaxy in 2014, which she described as having a "very retro, pulpy feel".[28] As with Thor, Byrne found much of her inspiration from the comics.[24] The production's main actor, Chris Pratt, was hired before he had lost enough body weight, forcing Byrne to anticipate what his physical form would become.[24] When describing Pratt's character Star-Lord in Guardians of the Galaxy, Byrne said he "was all about the swagger, but without vanity" and designed a red jacket for him that was heavily treated cotton, though it looked like real leather.[28] Her next project, , arrived in cinemas in May 2015.[28]

Byrne is the costume designer for the 2016 Marvel film Doctor Strange starring Benedict Cumberbatch,[29] which began shooting in November 2015 at Pinewood-Shepperton studios in the UK.[30] [31] For Strange's famous Cloak of Levitation, Byrne estimated that twelve different versions were completed by a team of designers. She sought to incorporate subtle details while avoiding making it "over-embellish[ed] and decorative".[32]

Personal life

Byrne married English actor Simon Shepherd in 1980.

Filmography

YearTitleDirector
1993The Buddha of SuburbiaRoger Michell
1995Persuasion
1996HamletKenneth Branagh
1998ElizabethShekhar Kapur
2001Captain Corelli's MandolinJohn Madden
2004Finding NeverlandMarc Forster
The Phantom of the OperaJoel Schumacher
2007Shekhar Kapur
SleuthKenneth Branagh
2008The Garden of EdenJohn Irvin
2011ThorKenneth Branagh
2012The AvengersJoss Whedon
2014Noam Murro
Guardians of the GalaxyJames Gunn
2015Joss Whedon
2016Doctor StrangeScott Derrickson
2017Murder on the Orient ExpressKenneth Branagh
2018Andy Serkis
Mary Queen of ScotsJosie Rourke
2019The AeronautsTom Harper
2020Emma. Autumn de Wilde
2021The MauritanianKevin Macdonald
2022Empire of LightSam Mendes
2023The FlashAndy Muschietti
2025Matt Shakman

Awards and nominations

Major associations

Academy Awards

YearCategoryNominated workResultRef.
1996Best Costume DesignHamlet[33]
1998Elizabeth[34]
2004Finding Neverland[35]
2007[36]
2018Mary Queen of Scots[37]
2020Emma[38]

BAFTA Awards

YearCategoryNominated workResultRef.
British Academy Film Awards
1996Best Costume DesignHamlet[39]
1998Elizabeth[40]
2004Finding Neverland[41]
2007[42]
2018Mary Queen of Scots[43]
2020Emma[44]
BAFTA Television Craft Awards
1994Best Costume DesignThe Buddha of Suburbia[45]
1996Persuasion[46]

Tony Awards

Miscellaneous awards

AwardYearCategoryTitleResult
Astra Film Creative Arts Awards2020Best Costume DesignEmma
Chicago Film Critics Association Awards2020Best Costume DesignEmma
Costume Designers Guild Awards2004Excellence in Period/Fantasy FilmThe Phantom of the Opera
2007Excellence in Period Film
2011Excellence in Fantasy FilmThor
2014Guardians of the Galaxy
2016Doctor Strange
2017Excellence in Period FilmMurder on the Orient Express
2018Mary Queen of Scots
2020Emma
Critics' Choice Movie Awards2018Best Costume DesignMary Queen of Scots
2020Emma
Empire Awards2016Best Costume DesignDoctor Strange
2017Guardians of the Galaxy Vol. 2
Online Film Critics Society Awards2020Technical Achievement AwardEmma
San Diego Film Critics Society Awards2020Best Costume DesignEmma
Santa Barbara International Film Festival2020Variety Artisans AwardEmma
Satellite Awards1996Best Costume DesignHamlet
1998Elizabeth
2004The Phantom of the Opera
2007
2016Doctor Strange
2017Murder on the Orient Express
2018Mary Queen of Scots
2020Emma
2022Empire of Light
Saturn Awards2004Best Costume DesignThe Phantom of the Opera
2011Thor
2014Guardians of the Galaxy
2015
2016Doctor Strange
Seattle Film Critics Society Awards2020Best Costume DesignEmma

References

Works cited

Notes and References

  1. News: In Oscar's Shadow; Simon Shepherd the Big Interview . . Roz . Laws . 14 June 2009 . 22 March 2015.
  2. News: Rule Britannia! . . Gina . McIntyre . February 2011 . 22 March 2015.
  3. Oscar's 2005 envelope pushers . . Michelle . Kung . Clarissa . Cruz . 31 January 2005 . 26 March 2015.
  4. News: Alexandra Byrne: costume designer . https://web.archive.org/web/20150402104227/http://www.highbeam.com/doc/1G1-125647127.html . dead . 2 April 2015 . . Jan . Lindstrom . 16 November 2004 . 22 March 2015.
  5. Web site: Motley Theatre Design Course. https://web.archive.org/web/20060203233714/http://www.motleytheatredesign.co.uk/. dead. 3 February 2006. Motley Theatre Design Course. 22 March 2015.
  6. News: Review/Theater; American Academics, Warts and All, Wallow in English Plays . . Mel . Gussow . 12 February 1990 . 22 March 2015.
  7. News: Alexandra Byrne . https://web.archive.org/web/20120719004119/http://explore.bfi.org.uk/4ce2bb658a932 . dead . 19 July 2012 . . 26 March 2015.
  8. News: Review: 'The Buddha of Suburbia' . . Dennis . Harvey . 9 May 1994 . 26 March 2015.
  9. News: BAFTA Awards Search . . 26 March 2015.
  10. News: Review: 'Persuasion' . . Derek . Elley . 6 June 1995 . 30 March 2015.
  11. News: The Buddha of Suburbia (1993) Production Credits . https://web.archive.org/web/20150402090424/http://www.nytimes.com/movies/movie/133444/The-Buddha-of-Suburbia/credits . dead . 2 April 2015 . Movies & TV Dept. . . 2015 . 22 March 2015.
  12. News: Television Craft - Costume Design in 1996 . . 18 March 2015.
  13. Web site: Alexandra Byrne. Independent Talent. en-GB. 14 May 2019.
  14. Web site: The 69th Academy Awards – 1997 . . 26 March 2015.
  15. News: Academy Awards Database . . 28 March 2015 . https://web.archive.org/web/20150402164415/http://awardsdatabase.oscars.org/ampas_awards/DisplayMain.jsp?curTime=1427519640911 . 2 April 2015 . dead . Perform search for Alexandra Byrne to view results
  16. News: The Golden Age Of Costumes . . Elizabeth . Snead . 21 November 2007 . 22 March 2015.
  17. News: Ball Gowns Fit for a Queen . . Betty . Goodwin . 13 November 1998 . 25 March 2015.
  18. News: Costume design: the analysis . https://web.archive.org/web/20150402115410/http://www.highbeam.com/doc/1G1-129354042.html . dead . 2 April 2015 . . 7 February 2005 . 22 March 2015.
  19. Web site: The 77th Academy Awards – 2005 . . 22 March 2015.
  20. News: 'Phantom' merits a look, but don't bother listening . https://web.archive.org/web/20150402102602/http://www.highbeam.com/doc/1P2-1559700.html . dead . 2 April 2015 . . Roger . Ebert . 22 December 2004. 22 March 2015.
  21. News: Phantom of the Opera.(Eye on the Oscars: the look) . https://web.archive.org/web/20150402093643/http://www.highbeam.com/doc/1G1-127936964.html . dead . 2 April 2015 . . Sam . Molineaux . 10 January 2005 . 26 March 2015.
  22. News: Alexandra's golden oscar win – at last . https://web.archive.org/web/20150402110009/http://www.highbeam.com/doc/1P2-15412429.html . dead . 2 April 2015 . . 28 February 2008 . 22 March 2015.
  23. Web site: The 80th Academy Awards – 2008 . . 22 March 2015.
  24. News: 'It's Sort of Liberace Meets Billy Idol': The Costumes Of 'Guardians Of The Galaxy' . Screen Crush . Mike . Ryan . 1 August 2014 . 28 March 2015.
  25. News: Branagh Acts 'Hamlet' as the Bard Wrote It . . Kevin . Thomas . 25 December 1996 . 22 March 2015.
  26. News: Sleuth . https://web.archive.org/web/20150402112807/http://www.highbeam.com/doc/1G1-169024448.html . dead . 2 April 2015 . . Robert . Koehler . 31 August 2007 . 22 March 2015.
  27. News: Leotards to Louboutins: Assembling The Avengers' costumes . . Nathalie . Atkinson . 3 May 2012 . 22 March 2015.
  28. News: Alexandra Byrne Told Us What It Was Like to Make Costumes for Marvel's Biggest Movies . . Emily . Zemler . 21 February 2015 . 22 March 2015.
  29. Benedict Cumberbatch reveals the movie magic behind his Doctor Strange costume . . Clark . Collis . 14 October 2016 . 17 October 2016.
  30. Web site: Marvel's Doctor Strange set to shoot in UK. Schaefer. Sandy . Screen Daily . 2014 . 28 March 2015 .
  31. News: Benedict Cumberbatch's Doctor Strange Starts Filming In November . Comicbook.com . Jay . Jayson . 11 April 2015 . 19 August 2015.
  32. News: Benedict Cumberbatch's Doctor Strange Starts Filming In November . . Joanna . Robinson . 3 November 2016 . 7 November 2016.
  33. Web site: 69th Academy Awards . Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences . August 15, 2023.
  34. Web site: 71st Academy Awards . Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences . August 15, 2023.
  35. Web site: 77th Academy Awards . Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences . August 15, 2023.
  36. Web site: 80th Academy Awards . Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences . August 15, 2023.
  37. Web site: 91st Academy Awards . Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences . August 15, 2023.
  38. Web site: 93rd Academy Awards . Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences . August 15, 2023.
  39. Web site: 50th British Academy Film Awards . British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA) . August 15, 2023.
  40. Web site: 52nd British Academy Film Awards . British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA) . August 15, 2023.
  41. Web site: 58th British Academy Film Awards . British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA) . August 15, 2023.
  42. Web site: 61st British Academy Film Awards . British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA) . August 15, 2023.
  43. Web site: 72nd British Academy Film Awards . British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA) . August 15, 2023.
  44. Web site: 74th British Academy Film Awards . British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA) . August 15, 2023.
  45. Web site: 40th British Academy Television Awards . British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA) . August 15, 2023.
  46. Web site: 42nd British Academy Television Awards . British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA) . August 15, 2023.
  47. Web site: THE TONY AWARD NOMINATIONS / 1990 . American Theatre Wing . June 24, 2023.