Alexander Megos Explained

Alexander Megos
Nationality:German
Birth Date:12 August 1993
Birth Place:Erlangen, Germany
Occupation:Professional rock climber
Height:173 cm[1]
Weight:57 kg
Updated:27 June 2024

Alexander Megos (born 12 August 1993) is a German rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering and competition climbing. In 2013, he became the first-ever climber to onsight a graded route. He has made the first free ascent (FFA) of some of the hardest sport climbing routes in the world, including two routes (Perfecto Mundo and Bibliographie), four routes (Fight Club, Ratstaman Vibrations, Move and The Full Journey), and several boulders with a boulder rating.

Early life

Megos started climbing at the age of six. With his father, he climbed multi-pitch routes up to 300 m at the age of ten. In 2006, Megos began training in the mountainous region of his native Bavaria, known as Franconian Switzerland, and later at the German Alpine Club's national climbing center in Erlangen-Nuremberg.[2] There, he was mentored by Patrick Matros and Ludwig Korb, who continue to train and coach Megos to this day. In 2007, Megos completed his first . Two years later, in 2009, he climbed his first by completing Drive-by Shooting, and, in 2011, his first by ascending San Ku Kai.

Climbing career

Competition climbing

Alexander Megos started competition climbing in 2006. He won two youth European Championship titles (2009 and 2010) and was the runner-up in the youth World Champion in 2011.[3] In 2009, he won every single competition in the EYC series.[4] In 2017, he was the runner-up in bouldering at the European Championship and won his first World Cup in the lead climbing discipline in Briançon, France, on 21 July 2018.[5]

In 2017, he won the silver medal for bouldering at both the European Championships in Munich and the IFSC Lead World Cup in Kranj, Slovenia. In 2018, he won a bronze medal in the lead climbing discipline at the IFSC World Cup in Chamonix, France,[6] and, one week later, won the gold medal at the Briancon World Cup.[7] Later in that year, he took the bronze medal at the World Championships in the lead competition.[8] He followed this up with a silver in lead at the 2019 World Championships. By reaching the finals of the combined event at the World Championships, he secured a qualifying spot for Tokyo's 2020 Summer Olympics.[9]

Megos has also climbed in the La Sportiva Legends competitions, where he has placed second and third on numerous occasions, celebrating in a win in 2018.[10] He currently holds the high point of Black Diamond's The Project, which is widely considered one of the world's hardest indoor routes.

Sport climbing

On 24 March 2013, Megos ascended Estado Critico in Siurana, Spain, completing the world's first 9a onsight. In August 2013, Megos climbed The Red Project 9a (35), Australia's first 9a, and Wheelchair (9a+).[11] Due to the boulder's uncommonly long length, Megos assigned the Wheelchair a sport grading.[12]

Alexander Megos is known for speedily ascending difficult climbing routes. From mid-April to mid-June 2014, he completed nine routes, ranging from to, in Franconian Switzerland, including Modified, one of the most challenging routes in the region. He also managed a redpoint attempt of the famous Action Directe within two hours, setting a record time.[13] In addition, he is the only person to complete an asccent of Biography also known as Realization in Ceüse, France in a single day of effort.[14]

In June 2014, Alexander Megos, together with Roger Schäli, completed the first ascent of the 20-pitch route Fly in Staldeflue, Switzerland, one of the most difficult big-wall climbing routes in the world.[15]

In April 2015, Megos returned to Australia, completing the first ascent of SchweinebaumeIn 9a (35). On 1 October 2015, he climbed the route Supernova in Franconian Switzerland and, by doing so, likely established the first route of grade 11+ (UIAA) (9a + / 9b French) in German-speaking countries.[16]

Megos' ascent of First Round First Minute in December 2015 marked the completion of his first .

On 9 May 2018, he secured the first ascent of the route Perfecto Mundo in Margalef, Spain, a line bolted by Chris Sharma. Megos and Sharma had tried it together several times in the days before his ascent and graded it .

In August 2020, Megos completed his long-term project Bibliographie in Céüse, grading it, after working on it for 60 days.[17] However, in August 2021, after Stefano Ghisolfi had matched this feat, the route was downgraded to, which Megos agreed was more fitting.[18]

Bouldering

In May 2020, Megos ascended Upgrade U, one of the most challenging bouldering problems in his native northern Bavaria.[19] [20]

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

9a+/b (5.15a/b)

Other notable ascents

8c+ (5.14c) - Megos became the first to climb both Action Directe and Hubble by sending Hubble in June 2016.[51]

Onsighted routes

Rankings

Climbing World Cup

Discipline20092010201120122013201420152016201720182019202120222023
Lead553735-----226710142
Bouldering---73----28551992233
Speed--------------
Combined--------38

Climbing World Championships

Youth

Adult

Discipline201820192023
Lead323
Bouldering252517
Speed10975-
Combined1113

Climbing European Championships

Discipline20102017
Lead23-
Bouldering-2
Speed--

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup

Lead

SeasonGoldSilverBronzeTotal
2017 1 1
2018 1 12
2019 11 2
2021 11
2022 1 1
2023112
202411
Total 1 5410

Personal life

Megos has been vegan since the beginning of 2021.[62]

Megos and his family have provided housing, via their properties in Erlangen, to Ukrainian refugees, saying the refugees are "friends and family". He said that athletes feel too far from the Ukrainian War to believe they can be of any help, and wishes that they would use their platform to help people.[63]

See also

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Reddit AMA Alex Megos . 5 November 2014 . Reddit.com . https://web.archive.org/web/20150408084426/https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/2lbq51/i_am_alex_megos_ask_me_anything/ . 8 April 2015.
  2. Web site: Alexander Megos klettert in die Weltspitze . nordbayern.de . de . 2019-09-25.
  3. Web site: Alexander Megos . Red Bull . en . 2019-09-25.
  4. Web site: Alexander Megos digital rock profile . Digitalrock.de .
  5. Web site: Alexander Megos interview after world's first 9a onsight . PlanetMountain.com . en . 2019-09-25.
  6. Web site: Chamonix 2018 Highlights, Winners and Top Canadians . 14 July 2018 . Gripped.com . 27 October 2021.
  7. Web site: Alex Megos Wins First Lead World Cup . 22 July 2018 . Gripped.com . 27 October 2021.
  8. Web site: Results: 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships . Climbing.com . 16 September 2018 . 27 October 2021.
  9. Web site: Jakob Schubert and Alexander Megos qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo . LACRUX Klettermagazin . 18 July 2021 . en . 19 August 2019.
  10. Web site: NEWS: La Sportiva Legends Only 2018 . Ukclimbing.com . 3 December 2018 . 27 October 2021.
  11. Web site: VIDEO: Alexander Megos climbs Wheelchair, ~9a+ . Ukclimbing.com . 2 November 2013 . en . 2019-09-25.
  12. Web site: Alexander Megos frees Modified 9a+ in the Frankenjura . PlanetMountain.com . en . 2019-09-25.
  13. Web site: Alexander Megos, the Action Directe Frankenjura interview . PlanetMountain.com . en . 2019-09-25.
  14. Web site: Q&A: Alex Megos Sends Biographie/Realization (5.15a) in Three Tries . https://web.archive.org/web/20160101191946/http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/interview-alex-megos-sends-biographie-realization-5-15a-in-three-tries . dead . 2016-01-01 . 2016-01-01 . 2019-09-25.
  15. Web site: Alexander Megos frees Fly, 8c multipitch in Switzerland's Lauterbrunnental . PlanetMountain.com . en . 2019-09-25.
  16. Web site: Supernova (11+): Alexander Megos gelingt erste 11+ im Frankenjura! - News zu Klettern - Frankenjura.com . Frankenjura.com . 2019-09-25.
  17. Web site: Alexander Megos on Instagram: "Sometimes the odds are against you, but it doesn't mean you don't have a chance. Yesterday evening, on my last day of the trip, it…" . https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/instagram/alexandermegos/2369953061183124105 . 2021-12-25 . registration . 2020-08-06 . Instagram . en.
  18. News: Alex Megos Agrees With Bibliographie Downgrade to 5.15c . 19 July 2022 . Gripped . 30 August 2021.
  19. Web site: Magazine . Lacrux . 2020-07-15 . Alexander Megos begeht den schwersten Boulder im Frankenjura: Upgrade U (8c) . 2020-07-15 . LACRUX Klettermagazin . de-DE.
  20. Web site: Markus Windisch gelang die erste Wiederholung von Gossip (8C) . 3 June 2009 . 2 December 2021.
  21. Web site: Alex Megos Sends Multi-Year Project Bibliographie, Suggests 5.15d . Climbing.com . 6 August 2020 . 27 October 2021.
  22. Web site: Clarke . Owen . 2021-09-08 . Stefano Ghisolfi on Climbing the World’s Hardest Grade… and Then Downgrading It . 2024-07-11 . Climbing . en-US.
  23. Web site: Alexander Megos on Instagram: "I'm incredibly relieved... Clipping the anchor of "Perfecto Mundo", my first 9b+" . registration . https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/instagram/alexandermegos/1775621545987632901 . 2021-12-25 . 2018-05-09 . Instagram.com . en.
  24. Web site: Pardy . Aaron . 2024-08-22 . Alex Megos Sends Adam Ondra's Change 5.15c . 2024-09-08 . Gripped Magazine . en-US.
  25. Web site: Alex Megos Sends First Round, First Minute (5.15b) and More . Rockandice.com . 2016-05-07.
  26. Web site: 16 August 2016 . Alex Megos Establishes Fightclub – Canada's First 5.15 . 18 August 2016 . Rockandice.com.
  27. Web site: Alexander Megos repeats Margalef's Mejorando Imagen and proposes 9b . 2022-11-12 . PlanetMountain.com . en.
  28. Web site: Alexander Megos repeats King Capella at Siurana in Spain . 2022-11-12 . PlanetMountain.com . en.
  29. Web site: Alex Megos frees Ratstaman Vibrations, cool Sharma project at Céüse . 1 August 2022 . planetmountain.com . 22 August 2022.
  30. Web site: Alex Megos completes The Full Journey (9b) at Margalef . 2022-11-12 . PlanetMountain.com . en.
  31. Web site: Deuto . Christopher . 2024-01-18 . Alex Megos on the Second Ascent of Chris Sharma’s 'Sleeping Lion' . 2024-07-11 . Climbing . en-US.
  32. Web site: Pardy . Aaron . 2024-01-24 . Alex Megos' Second Ascent of Sharma's Sleeping Lion . 2024-07-11 . Gripped Magazine . en-US.
  33. Web site: Deuto . Christopher . 2024-09-04 . After Olympic Disappointment, Alex Megos Reminds Us Why He's One of the World's Best Rock Climbers . 2024-09-08 . Climbing . en-US.
  34. Web site: Instagram . 2024-09-08 . www.instagram.com.
  35. Web site: Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Dec 14, 2021 . registration . https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/instagram/alexandermegos/2728720153883601521_2728720149496223104 . 2021-12-25 . 2021-12-14 . Instagram.
  36. Web site: Alex Megos: Super-Fast 5.15a . 30 November 2015 . Climbing.com . 5 May 2016.
  37. Web site: Alex Megos: Corona (5.15a) - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles . Dpmclimbing.com . 2016-05-07 . https://web.archive.org/web/20160530160453/http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/alex-megos-corona-515a . 2016-05-30 . dead.
  38. Web site: Alexander Megos - Pro Team - DMM Climbing Equipmen- . Dmmclimbing.com . en-US . 2016-05-07.
  39. Web site: Video: Alex Megos Climbs Modified (5.15a) in Frankenjura . 9 November 2015 . Climbing.com . 5 May 2016.
  40. Web site: Alex Megos Repeats Thor's Hammer (5.15a), Flatanger Cave . Rockandice.com . 2016-05-07 . https://web.archive.org/web/20160525213251/http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/alex-megos-repeats-thor-s-hammer-5-15a-flatanger-cave . 2016-05-25 . dead.
  41. Web site: Adam Ondra Repeats Geocache (9a+/5.15a) in a Day . Rockandice.com . 2016-06-02 . https://web.archive.org/web/20160529103846/http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/adam-ondra-repeats-geocache-5-15a-in-a-day . 2016-05-29 . dead.
  42. Web site: Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 24, 2016 at 6:06am UTC . https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/instagram/alexandermegos/1367923355936559593 . 2021-12-25 . registration . Instagram . 2016-10-24.
  43. Web site: Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 17, 2016 at 9:02pm UTC . https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/instagram/alexandermegos/1363300862110187603 . 2021-12-25 . registration . Instagram . 2016-11-13.
  44. Web site: Instagram post by Alexander Megos • Oct 11, 2017 at 12:44am UTC . https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/instagram/alexandermegos/1622882269545337870 . 2021-12-25 . registration . Instagram . en . 2017-10-11.
  45. Web site: Alex Megos Sends Action Directe (5.14d) in Two Hours - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles . Dpmclimbing.com . 2016-05-07 . https://web.archive.org/web/20160530160222/http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/alex-megos-sends-action-directe-514d-two-hours . 2016-05-30 . dead.
  46. Web site: Alex Megos Sends Dreamcatcher 5.14d for Fourth Ascent . Gripped.com . 27 August 2016.
  47. Web site: Alexander Megos on Instagram: "Wooop! The ultra classic "Era Vella" - went down yesterday on my second try. I checked it out first and then straight away did it. This one…" . https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/instagram/alexandermegos/1760446658654312896 . 2021-12-25 . registration . Instagram . en . 2018-04-18.
  48. Web site: Watch Alexander Megos climb 10 of Switzerland's hardest routes in 6 days . Redbull.com . 27 October 2021.
  49. Web site: Coup de Grace . Escalade9.wifeo.com . 27 October 2021.
  50. Web site: World's First 9a Onsight? - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles . Dpmclimbing.com . 2016-05-07 . https://web.archive.org/web/20130329180642/http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/worlds-first-9a-onsight . 2013-03-29 . dead.
  51. Web site: UK Climbing . Pohl . Bjorn . 1 Jun 2016 . Ukclimbing.com . 2 June 2016.
  52. Web site: TCT, second 9a onsight by Alex Megos . ukclimbing.com . 21 May 2017 . 2017-11-08.
  53. Web site: Alex Megos Establishes 5.15a Link-Up in Australia's Grampians . Rockandice.com . 2016-05-07 . https://web.archive.org/web/20140101060603/http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/alex-megos-establishes-5-15a-link-up-in-austrailia-s-grampians . 2014-01-01 . dead.
  54. Web site: 2020-12-26 . Alex Megos Sends Story of Two Worlds V15 . 2020-12-30 . Gripped Magazine . en-US.
  55. Web site: 2020-12-20 . Alex Megos Sends Dreamtime V15 in Switzerland . 2020-12-30 . Gripped Magazine . en-US.
  56. Web site: Magazine . Climbing . 9 July 2020 . Watch Alex Megos Make the First Ascent of Upgrade U (V15) . 2020-07-15 . Climbing Magazine . en-us.
  57. Web site: Daniel Woods sends Finnish line says v15 . gripped.com . 2 July 2018 . 2018-09-07.
  58. Web site: Alex Megos on a V14 - Gripped Magazine . 2014-11-26 . Gripped Magazine . en-US . 2016-05-07.
  59. Web site: Alex Megos Makes Fast Work Of 'Double Demerit' (V14/8B+) EpicTV. Epictv.com. 2016-05-07.
  60. Web site: Videos: Alex Megos Climbing in Ceuse and Rocklands - Rock Climbing & Bouldering Articles . Dpmclimbing.com . 2016-05-07 . https://web.archive.org/web/20150615014902/http://www.dpmclimbing.com/articles/view/videos-alex-megos-climbing-ceuse-and-rocklands . 2015-06-15 . dead.
  61. Web site: Instagram photo by Alexander Megos • Oct 30, 2016 at 5:46pm UTC . https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/instagram/alexandermegos/1372624371353243906 . 2021-12-25 . registration . Instagram . 2016-10-31.
  62. Web site: Megos and the Environmental Catastrophe . 8a.nu . 27 September 2024 . 27 September 2024.
  63. Web site: Barronian . Abigail . 2022-03-31 . Professional Climber Alex Megos Is Housing 15 Ukrainian Refugees . 2024-11-14 . Outside Online . en-US.

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