Alessandro Sartori Explained

Alessandro Sartori
Birth Place:Biella, Italy
Known For:Artistic Director for Ermenegildo Zegna
Occupation:Fashion designer

Alessandro Sartori is an Italian fashion designer, and the artistic director of Italian brand Zegna. Previously, he was creative director of Z Zegna and artistic director of Berluti.

Early life

Sartori received a degree in textile engineering in Biella, Italy, followed by a degree in fashion design in Milan in 1989.[1]

Career

Zegna, 1989–2011

In 1989, Sartori began his career at Zegna and worked as a men’s wear designer for many years.[2]

In 2003, Sartori became creative director of the newly created "Z Zegna" at Ermenegildo Zegna. He presented the Z Zegna first runway show in New York City in February 2007.[3] Z Zegna successfully appeared at five New York Fashion Weeks, and then moved to Milan starting in June 2009.

Berluti, 2011–2016

On 1 July 2011 Sartori was appointed as artistic director at Berluti with the aim of creating a luxury total wardrobe.[4]

On January 20, 2012 Sartori unveiled his first collection at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts, with footwear occupying rows of chairs lined up as if for a fashion show. Women's Wear Daily stated "It was an impressive debut." "Sartori’s collection was worn by a multigenerational cast of models in vignettes that telegraphed the Berluti lifestyle: playing chess in the library of a country chateau; having cocktails in a groovy apartment; gathering with friends under a full moon for a midnight shoe-polishing party, with Dom Pérignon as the shining agent (something serious Berluti devotees actually do)."[5]

Sartori's last collection for Berluti, presented during Paris Menswear Fashion Week, on January 22, 2016 was viewed as his best collection for the brand; Luke Leitch, on Vogue.com wrote: "This collection contained almost as many potential angles to elucidate excellence in menswear as there were grains of volcanic sand on the runway".[6]

On February 1, 2016 Women's Wear Daily confirmed the rumors about Sartori leaving Berluti.[7] [8] [9]

Zegna, 2016–present

On February 5, 2016 Ermenegildo Zegna Group announced that Sartori was appointed artistic director with responsibility across all Zegna brands and all creative functions. [10] [11] Sartori officially joined the Ermenegildo Zegna Group in June 2016. His first fashion show was the Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Autumn/Winter 2017 collection at HangarBicocca.[12] In 2019 Sartori chose wide, urban spaces in Milan – such as Stazione Centrale and former production plant Area Falck – as stages to his collections.[13] [14]

In January 2019 for the first time, during the Ermenegildo Zegna XXX Winter 2019 fashion show, Sartori unveiled the #USETHEEXISTING project, which is entirely made with innovative processes from pre-existing sources.[15]

Under his direction, in 2017 Zegna opened its first Bespoke Atelier in Milan.[16]

Collaborations

Since many years, Sartori has partnered with Benjamin Millepied, co-founder of the L.A. Dance Project. In 2015/2016 he designed costumes for Millepied's team at the Paris Opera Ballet.[17] In 2017 all the dancers of the L.A. Dance Project performed in Marfa, Texas, wearing Ermenegildo Zegna Couture custom made looks for a streaming life worldwide premiere.[18] In 2019, all dancers from the L.A. Dance Project performed the world premiere of Bach Studies (part 2) at Théâtre des Champs-Elysées in Paris, wearing Ermenegildo Zegna XXX custom designed looks by Sartori.[19]

In 2018 Sartori made the suits worn by actress Tilda Swinton who played the role of Josef Klemperer in Luca Guadagnino’s movie Suspiria.[20]

Since 2018 Sartori started designing the costumes for Genny Savastano, one of the main characters of the Italian series Gomorra, played by Salvatore Esposito.[21]

Awards and honors

Celebrities

Many celebrities have worn outfits designed by Sartori.

In 2003, actor Adrien Brody wore Zegna to the Golden Globes and the Oscars. Brody also featured in Zegna campaigns that year.[25]

Actors and celebrities who wore Zegna outfits designed by Sartori include: Mahershala Ali and Javier Bardem;[26] Jake Gyllenhaal;[27] Chadwick Boseman, Sterling K. Brown, Lakeith Stanfield and Chris Pine, Quincy Taylor Brown, Ben Hardy, Daniel Brühl, Mena Massoud, Riz Ahmed, Will Poulter and models Joan Smalls, Toni Garrn, Karrueche Tran.[28]

Many other celebrities have worn Zegna outfits as part of a four-chapter campaign called Defining Moments, launched in 2017.[29] The campaign featured Robert De Niro, McCaul Lombardi, Benjamin Millepied, Park Chan-Wook, Yoo Ji-Tae, Wang Deshun, Sunny Wang, Javier Bardem, Dev Patel.[30]

In 2019 Zegna launched the “What does it mean to be a man today?” campaign, a first act featuring Mahershala Ali and Nicholas Tse, focused on the actual meaning of modern masculinity, followed by few more until Fall/Winter 2021. Among the other international talents involved in the campaign the model, singer and songwriter Gabriel-Kane Day-Lewis and his mother five time César Award-winning actress Isabelle Adjani.[31]

In 2022 Zegna presented THE 232 brand value campaign, involving its family of visionaries including Italian musician Marracash, actor Isaac Hempstead Wright and movement director Yagamoto.[32]

Leaders from business, sport, entertainment, design, and culture have even become part of Zegna extended family over the years, these include Riz Ahmed at the 94th Academy Award,[33] John Legend,[34] Colin Farrell,[35] Alvaro Morte, Andrew Garfield, Li Xian,[36] Pierfrancesco Favino,[37] BTS[38] and many more.

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Alessandro Sartori is part of the BoF 500. The Business of Fashion. en-GB. 2019-12-23.
  2. Steven Kurutz (February 10, 2017), A New Designer (and Robert De Niro) for a Re-energized Zegna New York Times.
  3. Web site: Sartori — Milano Fashion Global Summit. esarni@class.it. www.fashionsummit.it. en. 2019-12-23.
  4. Web site: EXCLUSIVE: Alessandro Sartori Vision For Ermenegildo Zegna. 2018-10-04. A&E Magazine. en. 2019-12-23.
  5. Web site: Berluti Men’s RTW Fall 2012. Socha. Miles. 2012-01-21. WWD. en. 2019-12-23.
  6. https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2016-menswear/berluti Berluti Fall 2016 review
  7. https://www.wwd.com/menswear-news/designer-luxury/alessadro-sartori-exits-berluti-10335510/ Alessandro Sartori Exits Berluti
  8. https://www.wwd.com/menswear-news/designer-luxury/alessandro-sartori-berluti-style-story-10335556/ Alessandro Sartori's 5 Years At Berluti
  9. Web site: Menswear is now frantic as Women's.
  10. https://www.vogue.com/13395534/ermenegildo-zegna-hires-alessandro-sartori-artistic-director/ Ermenegildo Zegna Hires Alessandro Sartori
  11. https://wwd.com/business-news/mens-wear/alessandro-sartori-returns-ermenegildo-zegna-10340961/ Zegna Confirms Alessandro Sartori Return
  12. Web site: Alessandro Sartori Exits Berluti, Heads for Zegna. 2016-02-05. LUXUO. en-US. 2019-12-23.
  13. Web site: Ermenegildo Zegna A/W 2019 Milan Fashion Week Men’s. Magazine. Wallpaper*. 2019-01-13. Wallpaper*. 2019-12-23.
  14. Web site: Ermenegildo Zegna Men’s Spring 2020. Foreman. Katya. 2019-06-15. WWD. en. 2019-12-23.
  15. Web site: Ermenegildo Zegna XXX Fall/Winter 2019 Presents A Favorable Rise Of Social Good. DeAcetis. Joseph. Forbes. en. 2019-12-23.
  16. Web site: Ermenegildo Zegna Introduces Bespoke Service and Atelier. Zargani. Luisa. 2017-03-14. WWD. en. 2019-12-23.
  17. Web site: Benjamin Millepied Teams with Berluti’s Alessandro Sartori for Ballets, RTW. Medina. Marcy. 2015-12-12. WWD. en. 2019-12-23.
  18. Web site: L.A. Dance Project Partners With Ermenegildo Zegna Couture for Marfa Performances. Feitelberg. Rosemary. 2017-05-31. WWD. en. 2019-12-23.
  19. Web site: Ermenegildo Zegna XXX Outfits Royal Ballet Flanders Performers. Flaunt Magazine. en-US. 2019-12-23.
  20. Web site: 82-Year-Old "Suspiria" Actor Is Your New Menswear Icon—Because He’s Tilda Swinton?. Tashjian. Rachel. 2018-09-07. Garage. en. 2019-12-23.
  21. Web site: Gomorra 4, lo stile dei boss punta sull’eccellenza made in Italy. Il Sole 24 ORE. it. 2019-12-23.
  22. Web site: La nueva cara de Zegna. Iker. Seisdedos. May 28, 2006. elpais.com.
  23. Web site: Alessandro Sartori Receives Istituto Marangoni Award. Carrera. Martino. 2019-07-02. WWD. en. 2019-12-23.
  24. Web site: ADI - Associazione per il Disegno Industriale . 2022-07-14 . www.adi-design.org.
  25. Web site: GETTING BRODY. British Vogue. en-GB. 2019-12-23.
  26. Web site: An Inside Look at How Mahershala Ali Masters Red-Carpet Style. Evans. Jonathan. 2019-02-28. Esquire. en-US. 2019-12-23.
  27. Web site: Best-dressed men at the 2019 Tony Awards. Esquire Middle East. en. 2019-12-23.
  28. Web site: Ermenegildo Zegna XXX Spring/Summer 2020. Benjamin. Mark. 2019-06-18. RAIN Magazine. en-US. 2019-12-23.
  29. News: A New Designer (and Robert De Niro) for a Re-energized Zegna. Kurutz. Steven. 2017-02-10. The New York Times. 2019-12-23. en-US. 0362-4331.
  30. Web site: Classing up selvedge denim. 2019-08-01. Augustman. en-US. 2019-12-23.
  31. Web site: Ermenegildo Zegna launches the 'What Makes A Man' Campaign. Esquire Middle East. en. 2019-12-23.
  32. Web site: 2022-05-17 . Meet the 232: Zegna Unveils a New Campaign Celebrating Visionaries . 2022-07-14 . Prestige Online - Indonesia . en-US.
  33. Web site: Oscars 2022: Riz Ahmed's win another 'first' for Hollywood's Muslims . 2022-07-14 . Middle East Eye . en.
  34. Web site: 2022-04-03 . John Legend in Zegna . 2022-07-14 . PAPER . en.
  35. Web site: Limited . Alamy . HOLLYWOOD, LOS ANGELES, CA, USA - MARCH 11: Actor Colin Farrell wearing Ermenegildo Zegna XXX arrives at the World Premiere Of Disney's 'Dumbo' held at The Ray Dolby Ballroom and El Capitan Theatre on March 11, 2019 in Hollywood, Los Angeles, California, United States. (Photo by Xavier Collin/Image Press Agency/Sipa USA Stock Photo - Alamy . 2022-07-14 . www.alamy.com . en.
  36. Web site: Li Xian became the spokesperson of Zegna, not only by popularity, but also by impeccable fashion temperament .
  37. Web site: 2021-10-18 . Favino indossa Zegna al Festival del Cinema di Roma . 2022-07-14 . Newsbiella.it . it-IT.
  38. Web site: 2020-10-05 . The 10 Biggest Fits of the Week . 2022-07-14 . GQ . en-US.