| Ai Mori | |
| Birth Date: | 17 September 2003 |
| Birth Place: | Ibaraki, Japan |
| Occupation: | Professional rock climber |
| Height: | 154 cm |
| Knownfor: | First Japanese climber to win the gold in a World Championships for lead climbing. |
| Updated: | 2023-04-14 |
is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing and the disciplines of competition lead climbing and competition bouldering. At the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, she became the youngest Japanese athlete to finish in a podium place in the competition, third in lead. She has won Japan Cup titles in both bouldering and lead disciplines and has multiple IFSC Climbing World Cup podium finishes, including three gold medals in World Cup events in the 2022 season. At the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, Mori won the gold medal in lead, becoming the first Japanese athlete to win a World Championships lead title.
In 2016, Mori won Lead Japan Cup, becoming the youngest winner of the competition at age 12.[1] She has repeated as the national lead champion in 2018, 2020, 2021, and 2022. Mori also won the Boulder Japan Cup in 2021 and finished second place in 2018.[2]
Mori made her senior international competition climbing debut in 2019, winning two bronze medals in lead and one in bouldering World Cups. Later that year, at age 15, she placed third in the lead category at the IFSC Climbing World Championships, becoming the youngest Japanese climber to medal at the World Championship. Akiyo Noguchi had held the previous record with her 2005 bronze medal in lead at age 16. In November and December 2019, Mori finished fifth in the combined category at the Olympic qualifying event in Toulouse, France. However, Japan had already filled its athlete quota for the 2020 Olympic Games, so Mori did not compete at the Games despite finishing in qualifying places.[3]
In September 2022, Mori took first place at the World Cup event in Koper, Slovenia,[4] finishing ahead of second-place finisher Janja Garnbret, who had won all four lead World Cups of the season coming into Koper.[5] Mori was competing in her first World Cup event of the year, and her first international event of any kind since the 2020 Olympic qualifying event in 2019.[6] She followed this up with first-place finishes in another two World Cups events, at the lead event in Edinburgh, Scotland,[7] and the season-ending combined boulder and lead event in Morioka, Japan.[8]
In 2023, Mori took part in the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships and became the world champion in lead, becoming the first Japanese athlete to win a world title in the discipline.[9] She also qualified for the 2024 Olympics by placing third in the combined event.[10] She ended fourth place in the combined score, while still being first on the lead section. [11]
Mori is known for her strong performances in lead climbing compared to bouldering. She excels in endurance based routes where her static climbing style plays a crucial role.[12] [13] She trains four times a week. [14]
Mori has stated in 2022 that she prefers climbing outside of competitions: "I always like pushing myself to my limits, I can only do that in training. In comps if you make a mistake, your ranking changes dramatically. I don't want to feel pressure at every move. I like climbing freely."[15] In 2023 she stated that she had learned to enjoy competitions after a previous break and that she plans on competing for a maximum of 10 years.[16]
As of 2023, Mori was a student at the University of Tsukuba and living with her parents, planning to live alone in the future.[17] She has a younger brother and is a fan of the Japanese pop band Sekai no Owari. [18]
| [19] | 2019 | 2022 | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 6 | 11 | |
| Bouldering | 20 | - | |
| Speed | - | - | |
| Combined | 10 | - |
| Discipline | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| 2019 | 2023 | ||
| Lead | 3 | 1 | |
| Bouldering | 31 | 6 | |
| Speed | 60 | - | |
| Combined | 6 | 3 |
| Discipline | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| 2017 Youth B | 2018 Youth B | ||
| Lead | 1 | - | |
| Bouldering | 7 | 20 | |
| Speed | 43 | 44 | |
| Combined | 2 | - |
| 2017 Youth B | 2018 Youth B | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 1 | 2 | |
| Bouldering | 3 | 4 | |
| Speed | 5 | 20 |