Adras | |
Type: | Fabric |
Material: | 50% silk - 50% cotton |
Method: | Weaving |
Process: | Handicraft |
Location: | Tajikistan / Uzbekistan |
Ich: | Traditional knowledge and skills of production of the atlas and adras fabrics |
State Party: | Tajikistan |
Id: | 01484 |
Region: | APA |
Year: | 2023 |
Session: | 18th |
List: | Representative |
Ich: | Margilan Crafts Development Centre, safeguarding of the atlas and adras making traditional technologies |
State Party: | Uzbekistan |
Id: | 01254 |
Region: | APA |
Year: | 2017 |
Session: | 12th |
List: | Good Safeguarding Practices |
Adras is a natural handmade fabric that consists of 50 percent silk fibers and 50 percent cotton. Adras is traditionally woven in Uzbekistan and Tajikistan. In Uzbekistan, this fabric is also called “Podshohi” (royal), indicating its exceptional value associated with an elaborate and costly manufacturing process as well as a rich and sophisticated appearance. Adras is characterized by its strength, rich colors and the possibility of using it for a long period of time without losing its properties.[1]
The practice of making atlas and adras in traditional ways by the Margilan Craft Center was inscribed on the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2017.
In Central Asia (Bukhara, Samarkand, Khujand, Namangan, Margilan), the production of silk and semi-silk fabrics reached a special development in the 19th - early 20th centuries. In modern history, a festival of Adras and Atlas takes place in Tajikistan.[2] In Uzbekistan, the “Silk and Spices” festival is held every two years in Bukhara, where Adras is also presented.[3]
Adras is softer than pure silk and is therefore often used to make clothing, accessories, bedding and home textiles. The fabrics are often decorated with Uzbek ornaments, which have long been a national heritage and part of the region's culture. Natural plant seeds are used by craftsmen to dye the fibers. For example, the Uzbek ornament consists of rich, noble and natural shades.[4]
Adras is made by hand and has a width of 32 to 55 cm, as a larger width is not possible on looms. In Bukhara, the fabric has its own gisar abrob pattern with the motif “Doiragul, Kuzagul” - a small pot. The pattern of the Adra is arranged in three longitudinal rows. The main colors of the patterns are red and yellow on a white background. Oval-shaped drawings are filled with purple, yellow and blue lines. There are yellow ovals in the middle of the burgundy jugs.[5]