Aconcagua Explained

Aconcagua
Elevation M:6960.8
Prominence M:6960.8
Prominence Ref:[1]
Ranked 2nd
Range:Principal Cordillera, Andes
Country:Argentina
Region Type:Province
Region:Mendoza
Map:Argentina
Label Position:right
Pronunciation:pronounced as /es/
or
First Ascent:1897 by
Matthias Zurbriggen (first recorded ascent)[2]
Easiest Route:Scramble (Northwest)
Map Size:175
Parent Peak:none – Highest peak in the Americas
Fetchwikidata:ALL

Aconcagua (pronounced as /es/) is a mountain in the Principal Cordillera[3] of the Andes mountain range, in Mendoza Province, Argentina. It is the highest mountain in the Americas, the highest outside Asia,[4] and the highest in both the Western Hemisphere and the Southern Hemisphere[1] with a summit elevation of 6961m (22,838feet). It lies 112km (70miles) northwest of the provincial capital, the city of Mendoza, about 5km (03miles) from San Juan Province, and from Argentina's border with Chile. The mountain is one of the Seven Summits of the seven continents.

Aconcagua is bounded by the Valle de las Vacas to the north and east and the Valle de los Horcones Inferior to the west and south. The mountain and its surroundings are part of the Aconcagua Provincial Park. The mountain has a number of glaciers. The largest glacier is the Ventisquero Horcones Inferior at about long, which descends from the south face to about in elevation near the Confluencia camp.[5] Two other large glacier systems are the Ventisquero de las Vacas Sur and Glaciar Este/Ventisquero Relinchos system at about long. The best known is the northeastern or Polish Glacier, as it is a common route of ascent.

Etymology

The origin of the name is uncertain. It may be from the Mapudungun Aconca-Hue, which refers to the Aconcagua River and means "comes from the other side";[6] the Quechua Ackon Cahuak, meaning "Sentinel of Stone";[7] the Quechua Anco Cahuac, meaning "White Sentinel";[2] or the Aymara Janq'u Q'awa, meaning "White Ravine".[8]

Geologic history

See also: Andean Orogeny. The mountain was created by the subduction of the Nazca Plate beneath the South American Plate. Aconcagua used to be an active stratovolcano (from the Late Cretaceous or Early Paleocene through the Miocene) and consisted of several volcanic complexes on the edge of a basin with a shallow sea. However, sometime in the Miocene, about 8 to 10 million years ago, the subduction angle started to decrease, resulting in a stop of the melting and more horizontal stresses between the oceanic plate and the continent, causing the thrust faults that lifted Aconcagua off its volcanic root. The rocks on Aconcagua's flanks are all volcanic and consist of lavas, breccias and pyroclastics. The shallow marine basin had already formed earlier (Triassic), even before Aconcagua arose as a volcano. However, volcanism has been present in this region for as long as this basin was around and volcanic deposits interfinger with marine deposits throughout the sequence. The colorful greenish, bluish and grey deposits seen in the Horcones Valley and south of Puente Del Inca, are carbonates, limestones, turbidites and evaporates that filled this basin. The red-colored rocks are intrusions, cinder deposits and conglomerates of volcanic origin.[9]

Climbing

In mountaineering terms, Aconcagua is technically an easy mountain if approached from the north, via the normal route. Aconcagua is arguably the highest non-technical mountain in the world since the northern route does not absolutely require ropes, axes, and pins.[10] Although the effects of altitude are severe (atmospheric pressure is 40% of sea level at the summit), the use of supplemental oxygen is not common. Altitude sickness will affect most climbers to some extent, depending on the degree of acclimatization.[11] Although the normal climb is technically easy, multiple casualties occur every year on this mountain (in January 2009 alone, five climbers died).[12] This is due to the large numbers of climbers who attempt and because many climbers underestimate the objective risks of the elevation and of cold weather, which is the real challenge on this mountain. Given the weather conditions close to the summit, cold weather injuries are very common.The routes to the peak from the south and south-west ridges are more demanding and the south face climb is considered quite difficult.The Polish Glacier Traverse route, also known as the "Falso de los Polacos" route, crosses through the Vacas valley, ascends to the base of the Polish Glacier, then traverses across to the normal route for the final ascent to the summit. The third most popular route is by the Polish Glacier itself.

Provincial Park rangers do not maintain records of successful summits but estimates suggest a summit rate of 30–40%. About 75% of climbers are foreigners and 25% are Argentinean. Among foreigners, the United States leads in the number of climbers, followed by Germany and the UK. About 54% of climbers ascend the Normal Route, 43% up the Polish Glacier Traverse Route, and the remaining 3% on other routes.[13]

Camps

The campsites on the normal route are listed below (elevations are approximate).

Summit attempts are usually made from a high camp at either Berlín or Colera, or from the lower camp at Nido de Cóndores.

History

The first attempt to summit Aconcagua by Europeans was made in 1883 by a party led by the German geologist and explorer Paul Güssfeldt. Bribing porters with the story of treasure on the mountain, he approached the mountain via the Rio Volcan, making two attempts on the peak by the northwest ridge and reaching an elevation of 6500m (21,300feet). The route that he prospected is now the standard route up the mountain.

The first recorded[2] ascent was in 1897 by a European expedition led by the British mountaineer Edward FitzGerald. FitzGerald failed to reach the summit himself over eight attempts between December 1896 and February 1897, but the (Swiss) guide of the expedition, Matthias Zurbriggen reached the summit on 14 January. On the final attempt a month later, two other expedition members, Stuart Vines and Nicola Lanti, reached the summit on 13 February.[16]

The east side of Aconcagua was first scaled by a Polish expedition, with Konstanty Narkiewicz-Jodko,, and Stefan Osiecki summiting on 8 March 1934, over what is now known as the Polish Glacier.[17] [18] A route over the Southwest Ridge was pioneered over seven days in January 1953 by the Swiss-Argentine team of Frederico and Dorly Marmillod, Francisco Ibanez and Fernando Grajales. The famously difficult South Face was conquered by a French team led by . Pierre Lesueur, Adrien Dagory, Robert Paragot, Edmond Denis, Lucien Berardini and Guy Poulet reached the summit after a month of effort on 25 February 1954.[19] [20]

the youngest person to reach the summit of Aconcagua is Tyler Armstrong of California. He was nine years old when he reached the summit on 24 December 2013.[21] Kaamya Karthikeyan of India at an age of 12 became the youngest girl to reach the summit on 1 February 2020.[22] The oldest person to climb it was Scott Lewis, who reached the summit on 26 November 2007, when he was 87 years old.[23]

In the base camp Plaza de Mulas (at above sea level) there is the highest contemporary art gallery tent called "Nautilus" of the Argentine painter Miguel Doura.[24]

In 2014 Kilian Jornet set a record for climbing and descending Aconcagua from Horcones in 12 hours and 49 minutes.[25] The record was broken less than two months later by Ecuadorian-Swiss Karl Egloff, in a time of 11 hours 52 minutes, nearly an hour faster than Kilian Jornet.[26] The women's record is held by Ecuadorean Daniela Sandoval at 20 hours, 17 minutes.[27]

On 25 September 2019, an Airbus Helicopters H145 landed on the very peak of Mount Aconcagua. This is the first time in history a twin-engine helicopter has landed at this altitude. It took a total of 45 minutes for the entire trip, 30 minutes from Mendoza and another 15 from the base camp up to the peak. Temperatures were reported as low as, with wind gusts up to . This is not the highest a helicopter has landed before, as a single-engine Airbus Helicopters H125 landed on Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world.[28]

Dangers

At nearly,[29] Aconcagua is the highest peak outside of Asia.[30] It is believed to have the highest death rate of any mountain in South around three a which has earned it the nickname "Mountain of Death". More than 100 people have died on Aconcagua since records began.[31]

Due to the improper disposal of human waste in the mountain environment there are significant health hazards[29] that pose a threat to both animals and human beings.[32] Only boiled or chemically treated water is accepted for drinking. Additionally, ecofriendly toilets are available only to members of an organised expedition, meaning climbers have to "be contracted to a toilet service" at the base camp and similar camps along the route. As of 2015, from two base camps (Plaza de Mulas and Plaza Argentina), over 120 barrels of waste (approx.) are flown out by helicopter each season.[33] In addition, individual mountaineers must make a payment before using these toilets. Some large organisers will charge up to, while smaller ones may charge per day or for the entire stay; thus, many independent mountaineers choose to defecate on the mountainside.[29]

Mythological meaning

For the Incas, Aconcagua was a sacred mountain. As on other mountains (e.g. Ampato), places of worship were built here and sacrifices, including human sacrifices, were made. The sites discovered in 1985 at an elevation of 5167 m are among the highest in the world and are the most difficult of all Inca sites to reach. Here, the remains of a child bedded on grass, cloth and feathers were found inside stone walls (Aconcagua mummy). The clothing indicates that the child was a member of the highest social class. Other offerings found included figures and coca leaves.

See also

Bibliography

External links

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Informe científico que estudia el Aconcagua: el Coloso de América mide 6.960,8 metros . es . Scientific Report on Aconcagua, the Colossus of America measures 6960,8 m . 4 September 2012 . . 3 December 2017 . https://web.archive.org/web/20120908061725/http://www.uncu.edu.ar/novedades/index/informe-cientifico-que-estudia-el-aconcagua-el-coloso-de-america-mide-69608-metros . 8 September 2012.
  2. Book: Secor, R.J. . There is no definitive proof that the ancient Incas actually climbed to the summit of the White Sentinel [Aconcagua], but there is considerable evidence that they did climb very high on the mountain. Signs of Inca ascents have been found on summits throughout the Andes, thus far the highest atop Llullaillaco, a 67390NaN0 mountain astride the Chilean-Argentine border in the Atacama region. On Aconcagua, the skeleton of a guanaco was found in 1947 along the ridge connecting the North Summit with the South Summit. It seems doubtful that a guanaco would climb that high on the mountain on its own. Furthermore, an Inca mummy has been found at on the south west ridge of Aconcagua, near Cerro Piramidal . Aconcagua: A Climbing Guide . . 1994 . 978-0-89886-406-9 . 13.
  3. Web site: Orografía de Mendoza . 13 March 2014 . El Portal de Mendoza . Cámara de Turismo de Mendoza and Cooperativa El Portal de Mendoza . es . 29 June 2019 . 29 May 2021 . https://web.archive.org/web/20210529083019/http://elportaldemendoza.com/blog/orografia-de-mendoza/ . live .
  4. Web site: Newcomb . Tim . The 7 Highest Points Across All 7 Continents . Popular Mechanics . 24 July 2017 . 27 June 2019 . 29 May 2021 . https://web.archive.org/web/20210529083028/https://www.popularmechanics.com/adventure/outdoors/g3152/7-highest-points-all-continents/ . live .
  5. Servei General d'Informacio de Muntanya . 2002 . Aconcagua 1:50,000 map . Cordee.
  6. Book: Forbes, William . Encyclopedia of World Geography, Volume 1 Facts on File Library of World Geography . InfoBase Publishing . 2014 . 978-0816072293 . McColl . R. W. . 1 . 3 . 23 September 2016 . 23 September 2023 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230923014851/https://books.google.com/books?id=DJgnebGbAB8C&pg=PA4 . live .
  7. 1979 . South American Explorer . South American Explorers Club . 4–19 . University of Texas . 22 September 2016.
  8. Web site: Guías Pedagógicas del Sector Lengua Indígena, Aymara . https://web.archive.org/web/20130927074010/http://www.unicef.cl/unicef/public/archivos_documento/369/aymara1erobasico%20pdf%20web%202%20abril.pdf . 27 September 2013 . Ministerio de Educación, Fondo de las Naciones Unidas para la Infancia, UNICEF . Santiago de Chile . 2012 . es . 62.
  9. Web site: Geology of Aconcagua - Volcano - Plate Tectonics . Scribd . 5 October 2017 . 6 November 2021 . https://web.archive.org/web/20211106131628/https://www.scribd.com/document/24836826/Geology-of-Aconcagua . live .
  10. Web site: "Seven Summits" - Mount Everest, Mont Blanc, Mount Kosciuszko & Co. . www.ispo.com . en . 24 November 2021 . 24 November 2021 . https://web.archive.org/web/20211124094600/https://www.ispo.com/en/knowhow/id_77019344/-seven-summits-the-highest-summits-of-the-continents.html . live .
  11. Muza, SR . Fulco, CS . Cymerman, A . Altitude Acclimatization Guide . US Army Research Inst. Of Environmental Medicine Thermal and Mountain Medicine Division Technical Report . USARIEM–TN–04–05 . 2004 . 5 March 2009 . https://web.archive.org/web/20090423042451/http://archive.rubicon-foundation.org/7616 . 23 April 2009 . usurped.
  12. Web site: Rescataron el cuerpo del guía mendocino . 30 January 2009 . 5 August 2020 . 29 May 2021 . https://web.archive.org/web/20210529083013/https://www.lanacion.com.ar/sociedad/rescataron-el-cuerpo-del-guia-mendocino-nid1094736/ . live .
  13. Web site: Aconcagua — Highest Mountain in South America . Stewart Green . 23 November 2012 . 18 November 2012 . https://web.archive.org/web/20121118200533/http://climbing.about.com/od/thesevensummits/a/AconcaguaFacts.htm . dead.
  14. Web site: TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF USE OF THE "ELENA" SHELTER – ACONCAGUA PROVINCIAL PARK . 26 September 2012 . 29 May 2021 . https://web.archive.org/web/20210529083017/https://www.mendoza.gov.ar/aconcagua/?option=com_phocadownload&view=category&download=6:reglamento-refugio-elena-english&id=17:montanismo-y-trekking&Itemid=617 . live .
  15. Web site: Inauguración del refugio Elena . 2011 . 26 September 2012 . 15 May 2013 . https://web.archive.org/web/20130515194557/http://andesmarques.blogspot.com.ar/2011/01/inauguraron-elena-el-refugio-mas-alto.html . live .
  16. Fitzgerald . E. A. . 1898 . On Top of Aconcagua and Tupangato . McClure's Magazine . 12 . 1 . 71–78.
  17. Marek . Aneta . 2016 . Andy jako rejon eksploracji górskiej Polaków do 1989 r. . Słupskie Prace Geograficzne . pl . 13 . 83–104 . https://web.archive.org/web/20230616174507/https://spg.apsl.edu.pl/baza/wydawn/spg13/marek.pdf . 16 June 2023.
  18. Web site: Centro Cultural Argentino de Montaña . 2023-08-23 . Centro Cultural Argentino de Montaña . 8 February 2013 . https://web.archive.org/web/20130208015432/http://108.160.148.93/~culturad/ . dead .
  19. R.J. Secor, Aconcagua: A Climbing Guide, The Mountaineers Books, 1999, pp. 17–21
  20. Mario Fantin, Some Notes on the History of Aconcagua, The Alpine Journal 1966
  21. News: Nine-year-old US boy climbs Aconcagua peak in Argentina . BBC News . 28 December 2013 . 21 July 2018 . 28 November 2021 . https://web.archive.org/web/20211128233813/https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-latin-america-25531296 . live .
  22. Web site: La nena india de 12 años logró hacer cumbre en el Aconcagua . Santagati . Adriana . 1 February 2020 . 21 April 2020 . 29 May 2021 . https://web.archive.org/web/20210529083020/https://www.clarin.com/sociedad/nena-india-12-anos-logro-hacer-cumbre-aconcagua_0_jRpk5xjk.amp.html . live .
  23. Web site: Récord: un niño de 10 años hizo cumbre en el cerro Aconcagua . 26 October 2010 . es . dead . https://web.archive.org/web/20110706081438/http://edimpresa.diariouno.com.ar/2009/01/04/nota202048.html . 6 July 2011.
  24. Web site: Highest contemporary art gallery . 2 November 2010 . Guinness World Records . 30 July 2014 . 15 December 2018 . https://web.archive.org/web/20181215032051/http://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/highest-contemporary-art-gallery . live .
  25. News: Kilian Jornet Smashes Aconcagua Speed Record . Climbing Magazine . 23 December 2014 . 29 December 2014 . 29 November 2020 . https://web.archive.org/web/20201129201113/https://www.climbing.com/news/kilian-jornet-smashes-aconcagua-speed-record/ . live .
  26. News: Aconcagua Speed Record Smashed Again . Climbing Magazine . 19 February 2014 . 13 March 2015 . 2 December 2021 . https://web.archive.org/web/20211202112118/https://www.climbing.com/news/aconcagua-speed-record-smashed-again/ . live .
  27. News: La ecuatoriana Daniela Sandoval bate el record femenino en el Aconcagua . 31 January 2018 . es . 2 February 2022 . 2 February 2022 . https://web.archive.org/web/20220202163254/https://www.desnivel.com/alpinismo/la-ecuatoriana-daniela-sandoval-bate-el-record-femenino-en-el-aconcagua/ . live .
  28. Web site: The new Airbus H145 lands on top of the Andes . Airbus . 25 September 2019 . 27 September 2019 . 26 June 2021 . https://web.archive.org/web/20210626132749/https://www.airbus.com/newsroom/press-releases/en/2019/09/the-new-airbus-h145-lands-on-top-of-the-andes.html . live .
  29. Apollo . Michal . The good, the bad and the ugly – three approaches to management of human waste in a high-mountain environment . International Journal of Environmental Studies . 74 . 1 . 2016-09-27 . 0020-7233 . 10.1080/00207233.2016.1227225 . 129–158 . 113843846.
  30. Web site: Early Season Death on Aconcagua . 8 Dec 2009 . Outside . 6 January 2020 . 29 May 2021 . https://web.archive.org/web/20210529083023/https://www.outsideonline.com/1816801/early-season-death-aconcagua . live .
  31. Web site: Deaths on Aconcagua - Facts and Figures . www.mountainiq.com . en-US . 2017-05-25 . 2015-07-07 . 29 May 2021 . https://web.archive.org/web/20210529083008/https://www.mountainiq.com/deaths-on-aconcagua . live .
  32. Cilimburg, A.; Monz, C.; Kehoe, S. (2000). "Wildland recreation and human waste: a review of problems, practices, and concerns". Environmental Management. 25 (6): 587–598. .
  33. Barros, A. and Pickering, C. M., 2015, "Managing human waste on Aconcagua". In: J. Higham, A. Thompson-Carr and G. Musa (eds.) Mountaineering Tourism (London: Routledge), pp. 219–227.

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