2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup explained

2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Organiser:IFSC
Edition:31st
Dates:5 April – 27 October 2019
Men B: Tomoa Narasaki
Women B: Janja Garnbret
Men L: Adam Ondra
Women L: Seo Chae-hyun
Men C: Tomoa Narasaki
Women C: Janja Garnbret
Prev:2018
Next:2020

The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 12 locations. Bouldering, lead and speed competitions were each held in 6 locations. The season began on 5 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competition in the season, and concluded on 27 October in Inzai, Japan, with the last lead climbing competition in the season.

The top 3 in each competition received medals, and the overall winners were awarded trophies. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Olympic qualification

See main article: Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Qualification. For the Tokyo 2020 Olympics athletes can qualify through either the IFSC Combined World Championships, the Olympic Qualifying Event or the Continental Championships. The Olympic Qualifying Event is an invitation only event open to the 22 highest ranked climbers on the World Cup circuit who haven't already qualified.[1] [2]

Highlights of the season

In bouldering, at the World Cup in Moscow, Janja Garnbret of Slovenia flashed all boulders in the final round to take the win.[3] At the World Cup in Vail, Garnbret won her sixth consecutive gold medal and became the first climber ever to make a clean sweep of Bouldering World Cup season by winning six out of six events held this year.[4] Moreover, she also became the first female climber to win overall World Cup season titles in lead (2016, 2017, 2018) and bouldering (2019). Ai Mori of Japan, in her first year of open eligibility, made her the World Cup debut in Meiringen, then won her first medal (bronze) at the World Cup in Wujiang, China.

In speed, at the World Cup in Chongqing, YiLing Song of China set a new world record of 7.101s, breaking the previous world record of 7.32s set by Iuliia Kaplina of Russia at the 2017 World Games in Wroclaw and Anouck Jaubert of France at the 2018 Speed World Cup in Moscow.[5] [6] At the World Cup in Xiamen, Aries Susanti Rahayu of Indonesia set a new world record of 6.995s in the final race, breaking Song's 7.101s, and becoming the first woman in the history of the sport to record a time under 7 seconds.[7] [8] [9]

In lead, Chaehyun Seo of South Korea, in her first year of open eligibility, made her World Cup debut in Villars and claimed her first medal (silver) there. Then, she won the next 4 Lead World Cups and placed third in the last one, finishing her debut season with a 2019 Lead World Cup Season Champion title. Also in her debut season, Natsuki Tanii of Japan earned her first medal (bronze) in Briançon and continued her consistent performance throughout the season and thus claiming third place of the overall lead season ranking. Other notable athletes in their World Cup debut season: Ai Mori (JPN), YueTong Zhang (CHN).

Overview

[10] [11]

No.LocationGoldSilverBronze
1 Meiringen, Switzerland
April, 5–6
BM Adam Ondra4T4z 10 93T3z 7 62T3z 6 7
W3T4z 6 63T4z 9 122T3z 3 4
2 Moscow, Russia
April, 12–14
BM4T4z 8 63T4z 5 73T3z 6 5
W4T4z 4 44T4z 6 64T4z 6 6
SM5.73011.5456.083
W7.3897.6828.233
3 Chongqing, China
April, 26–28
BM3T4z 5 5 Tomoa Narasaki3T4z 5 63T4z 10 10
W4T4z 8 64T4z 12 93T4z 8 11
SM5.9706.3156.808
W7.673fall8.429
4 Wujiang, China
May, 3–5
BM3T4z 7 83T4z 7 131T4z 2 9
W4T4z 5 43T4z 4 53T4z 11 9
SM5.5975.8105.856
W7.3137.6077.516
5 Munich, Germany
May, 18–19
BM Jakob Schubert3T4z 7 8 Adam Ondra3T3z 3 3 Jan Hojer2T4z 4 14
W Janja Garnbret4T4z 5 5 Fanny Gibert4T4z 8 7 Mia Krampl3T3z 9 9
6 Vail, United States
June, 7–8
BM Yoshiyuki Ogata4T4z 11 9 Tomoa Narasaki3T4z 5 5 Jongwon Chon3T4z 6 7
W Janja Garnbret4T4z 9 8 Akiyo Noguchi3T4z 5 6 Fanny Gibert2T4z 3 9
7 Villars, Switzerland
July, 4–6
LM Sascha LehmannTop YuFei PanTop Alexander MegosTop
W Janja Garnbret36+ Chaehyun Seo35+ Ai Mori35+
SM Aleksandr Shikov5.542 Dmitrii Timofeevfall Jan Kriz7.765
W Anouck Jaubert7.660 YiLing Song8.415 Elizaveta Ivanova7.586
8 Chamonix, France
July, 11–13
LM Adam Ondra47+ Alexander Megos44 Jakob Schubert43+
W Chaehyun Seo34+ YueTong Zhang34+ Jessica Pilz34+
SM Alfian Muhammad5.764 QiXin Zhong6.382 Vladislav Deulin6.057
W YiLing Song99.000 Elizaveta Ivanovafalse start Aleksandra Kalucka7.661
9 Briançon, France
July, 19–20
LM Hidemasa Nishida39+ Hiroto Shimizu38+ Shuta Tanaka38+
W Chaehyun SeoTop Janja GarnbretTop Natsuki Tanii41+
10 Kranj, Slovenia
September, 28–29
LM Adam OndraTop Kai Harada32 Alberto Ginés López31.5
W Chaehyun Seo34.5+ Jessica Pilz34.5 Lucka Rakovec34+
11 Xiamen, China
October, 18–20
LM Adam OndraTop Taisei HommaTop Tomoa NarasakiTop
W Chaehyun SeoTop Akiyo NoguchiTop Jain KimTop
SM QiXin Zhong7.208 Lev Rudatskiyfall Vladislav Deulin5.635
W Aries Susanti Rahayu6.995 YiLing Song9.032 Mariia Krasavina7.947
12 Inzai, Japan
October, 26–27
LM Hiroto Shimizu38+ Alberto Ginés López36+ Stefano Ghisolfi32+
W Jain KimTop Janja Garnbret39 Chaehyun Seo37+
OVERALLBM Tomoa Narasaki340.00 Adam Ondra335.00 Yoshiyuki Ogata264.00
W Janja Garnbret500.00 Akiyo Noguchi320.00 Fanny Gibert308.00
LM Adam Ondra300.00 Alberto Ginés López256.00 Sean McColl206.00
W Chaehyun Seo480.00 Janja Garnbret352.00 Natsuki Tanii243.00
SM Bassa Mawem329.00 Vladislav Deulin312.00 Alfian Muhammad286.00
W YiLing Song460.00 Anouck Jaubert355.00 Aries Susanti Rahayu333.00
CM Tomoa Narasaki1728 Adam Ondra2072 Jakob Schubert27720
W Janja Garnbret255 Akiyo Noguchi4104 Jessica Pilz14400
NATIONAL TEAMSBA Japan1693 Slovenia1359 France766
LA Japan1695 Slovenia988 South Korea758
SA Russia1637 China1375 France1004

Bouldering

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are six competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2019:[12]

RankNamePointsMeiringenMoscowChongqingWujiangMunichVail
1 Tomoa Narasaki3402. 80(—) 2. 801. 100(—) 2. 80
2 Adam Ondra3351. 1002. 80(—) 14. 242. 805. 51
3 Yoshiyuki Ogata2648. 403. 65(29. 1)9. 3715. 221. 100
4 Chon Jong-won2285. 5110. 34(15. 22)11. 316. 473. 65
5 Kokoro Fujii2274. 559. 376. 475. 51(—) 9. 37
6 Jan Hojer223(21. 9 *)12. 2812. 286. 473. 654. 55
7 Alexey Rubtsov2147. 4311. 315. 5110. 344. 55(—)
820515. 224. 553. 6520. 125. 51(—)
9 Jernej Kruder19111. 311. 100(34. 0)16. 2011. 3121. 9
10 Jakob Schubert18447. 027. 318. 163. 651. 100(—)

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2019:[13]

RankNamePointsMeiringenMoscowChongqingWujiangMunichVail
1 Janja Garnbret5001. 1001. 1001. 1001. 1001. 100(1. 100)
2 Akiyo Noguchi3202. 80(—)2. 802. 80(—)2. 80
3 3084. 553. 657. 43(13. 25) *2. 803. 65
4 Futaba Ito2069. 376. 475. 517. 43(—)12. 28
5 Jessica Pilz20321. 9 *5. 513. 655. 5112. 27 *(—)
6 Petra Klingler1805. 518. 404. 5510. 34(—)(—)
7 Lučka Rakovec16316. 204. 5512. 2815. 228. 38 *(—)
8 Katja Kadic16112. 2819. 146. 4713. 25 *6. 47(—)
9 Julia Chanourdie15717. 17 *(31. 0)14. 246. 474. 5519. 14
10 Shauna Coxsey1453. 652. 80(—)(—)(—)(—)
10 Ievgeniia Kazbekova14513. 2610. 32 *25. 5 *11. 315. 51(—)

* = Joint place with another athlete

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2019:[14]

Country names as used by the IFSC

RankNamePointsMeiringenMoscowChongqingWujiangMunichVail
1 Japan1693322210321435(86)405
2 Slovenia1359213331280201334(109)
3 France766(75)151205104149157
4 Austria591759984137196(15)
5 Germany534638074(61)131186
6 United States of America4681024989(38)48180
7 Russian Federation39643136557983(—)
8 Republic of Korea3536877(34)784783
9 Czech Republic33610081(0)248051
10 Great Britain33010111934967(6)

Lead

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are six competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2019:[15]

RankNAMEPointsInzaiXiamenKranjBriançonChamonixVillars
1 Adam Ondra300.00(—)1. 100.001. 100.00(—)1. 100.00(—)
2 Alberto Ginés López256.002. 80.005. 51.003. 65.0022. 9.005. 51.0026. (5.00)
3 Sean McColl206.006. 47.0026. (5.00)4. 55.005. 51.007. 43.0021. 10.00
4 Kai Harada195.0025. 6.004. 55.002. 80.00(—)8. 40.0019. 14.00
5 Stefano Ghisolfi190.003. 65.0013. 25.006. 47.0015. 22.0026. (5.00)11. 31.00
6 Hiroto Shimizu180.001. 100.00(—)(—)2. 80.00(—)(—)
7 Kokoro Fujii165.0020. 12.0011. 31.005. 51.00(—)11. 31.008. 40.00
7 Alexander Megos165.00(—)(—)(—)16. 20.002. 80.003. 65.00
9 Sean Bailey158.008. 40.008. 40.0014. 24.006. 47.0024. 7.00(—)
10 Sascha Lehmann152.00(—)(—)(—)13. 26.0013. 26.001. 100.00

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2019:[16]

RankNAMEPointsInzaiXiamenKranjBriançonChamonixVillars
1 Seo Chae-hyun480.003. (65.00)1. 100.001. 100.001. 100.001. 100.002. 80.00
2 Janja Garnbret352.002. 80.004. 55.0013. (26.00)2. 80.009. 37.001. 100.00
3 Natsuki Tanii243.006. 47.005. 51.00(—)3. 65.008. 40.008. 40.00
4 Lucka Rakovec226.0016. (20.00)6. 47.003. 65.0014. 24.007. 43.006. 47.00
5 Akiyo Noguchi224.004. 55.002. 80.00(—)(—)10. 34.004. 55.00
6 Ai Mori220.0020. 12.009. 37.005. 51.00(—)4. 55.003. 65.00
7 Zhang Yuetong207.00(—)7. 43.00(—)6. 47.002. 80.009. 37.00
8 Jain Kim206.001. 100.003. 65.009. 37.00(—)(—)27. 4.00
9 Mia Krampl189.0022. 9.0024. (7.00)7. 43.004. 55.0011. 31.005. 51.00
10 Jessica Pilz176.00(—)(—)2. 80.00(—)3. 65.0011. 31.00

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2019:[17]

Country names as used by the IFSC

RankNationPointsInzaiXiamenKranjBriançonChamonixVillars
1 Japan1695345368306375(220)301
2 Slovenia988(109)112210224139303
3 Republic of Korea758174206137116(106)125
4 United States of America61215110375179104(22)
5 Austria525(47)531439116672
6 Czech Republic48418136146(0)14737
7 France44066(44)6511211186
8 Italy434115909187(29)51
9 Germany381(24)79305113883
10 Great Britain3606862(31)7511045

Speed

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are six competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2019:[18]

RankNAMEPointsXiamenChamonixVillarsWujiangChongqingMoscow
1 Bassa Mawem329.005. 51.007. 43.004. 55.002. 80.0015. (22.00)1. 100.00
2 Vladislav Deulin312.003. 65.003. 65.005. 51.005. 51.0014. (24.00)2. 80.00
3 Alfian Muhammad286.008. 40.001. 100.0020. 12.0010. 34.001. 100.0024. (7.00)
4 QiXin Zhong285.001. 100.002. 80.007. 43.0024. 7.004. 55.00(—)
5 Dmitrii Timofeev283.007. 43.0016. 20.002. 80.001. 100.0016. (20.00)8. 40.00
6 Reza Alipour236.006. 47.0023. (8.00)8. 40.004. 55.005. 51.007. 43.00
7 Sergey Rukin234.004. 55.006. 47.0016. 20.00(—)3. 65.006. 47.00
8 Aleksandr Shikov203.0012. 28.0014. 24.001. 100.00(—)(—)5. 51.00
9 Kostiantyn Pavlenko181.0022. 9.0011. 31.0019. 14.006. 47.002. 80.00(—)
10 Jan Kriz162.0024. (7.00)18. 16.003. 65.007. 43.0018. 16.0015. 22.00

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2019:[19]

RankNAMEPointsXiamenChamonixVillarsWujiangChongqingMoscow
1 Song Yiling460.002. 80.001. 100.002. 80.0016. (20.00)1. 100.001. 100.00
2 Anouck Jaubert355.004. 55.0016. (20.00)1. 100.003. 65.004. 55.002. 80.00
3 Aries Susanti Rahayu333.001. 100.004. 55.0019. (14.00)2. 80.005. 51.006. 47.00
4 Elizaveta Ivanova261.0029. (2.00)2. 80.003. 65.0012. 28.009. 37.005. 51.00
5 Di Niu201.007. 43.0015. 22.004. 55.006. 47.0010. 34.00(—)
6 Anna Tsyganova197.00(—)(—)6. 47.004. 55.008. 40.004. 55.00
7 Aleksandra Kałucka194.0020. (12.00)3. 65.0015. 22.008. 40.0014. 24.007. 43.00
8 Patrycja Chudziak188.00(—)7. 43.007. 43.005. 51.0016. 20.0011. 31.00
9 Aleksandra Mirosław180.00(—)(—)(—)1. 100.002. 80.00(—)
10 Iuliia Kaplina172.0018. 16.00(—)(—)13. 26.003. 65.003. 65.00

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2019:[20]

Country names as used by the IFSC

RankNationPointsXiamenChamonixVillarsWujiangChongqingMoscow
1 Russian Federation1637318294383293(292)349
2 People's Republic of China1375343268263209292(180)
3 France1004204(113)219215129237
4 Indonesia979172232(46)187250138
5 Poland874(59)210149217184114
6 Ukraine3283586615789(—)
7 Iran25751(8)40555160
8 Italy250(0)1550831290
9 Ecuador19526653536(22)33
10 Czech Republic162(7)1665431622

Combined

The 22 highest ranked climbers on the World Cup circuit (combined) who haven't already qualified for the Olympics will be invited to the Toulouse Olympic Qualifying Event.[21] [2] [22]

Men

RankNameNationPoints
1 Tomoa NarasakiJPN 1728.0
2 Adam OndraCZE 2072.0
3 Jakob SchubertAUT 27720.0
4 Kai HaradaJPN 34020.0
5 Kokoro FujiiJPN 84700.0
6 Sean McCollCAN 136800.0
7 Pan YufeiCHN 215040.0
8 Jan HojerGER 447174.0
9 William BosiGBR 478224.0
10 Sascha LehmannSUI 550800.0
11 Meichi NarasakiJPN 588000.0
12 Manuel CornuFRA 590976.0
13 Rei SugimotoJPN 894348.0
14 Alexander MegosGER 1018440.0
15 Nikolai YarilovetsRUS 1434672.0
16 Chon Jong-wonKOR 1441440.0
17 Alberto Ginés LópezESP 1536732.0
18 Keita DohiJPN 2192400.0
19 Bassa MawemFRA 2475252.0
20 Yannick FlohéGER 2830464.0
21 Alfian MuhammadINA 2877370.0
22 Stefano GhisolfiITA 3201660.0
23SLO 3388027.5
24 Nathaniel ColemanUSA 3489882.0
25 Sean BaileyUSA 3516480.0
26 Jernej KruderSLO 3845400.0
27 Alexey RubtsovRUS 4433000.0
28 Zhong QixinCHN 5457426.0
29 Aleksandr ShikovRUS 6776601.75
30 Mickaël MawemFRA 8967024.0

Women

RankNameNationPoints
1 Janja GarnbretSLO 255.0
2 Akiyo NoguchiJPN 4104.0
3 Jessica PilzAUT 14400.0
4 Miho NonakaJPN 78400.0
5 Lucka RakovecSLO 168000.0
6 Zhang YuetongCHN 249600.0
7 FRA 310464.0
8 Jain KimKOR 325728.0
9 Julia ChanourdieFRA 380160.0
10 Ai MoriJPN 491400.0
11 Mia KramplSLO 615384.0
12 Futaba ItoJPN 655200.0
13 Shauna CoxseyGBR 910350.0
14 Petra KlinglerSUI 1077375.0
15 Kyra CondieUSA 1296000.0
16 Anouck JaubertFRA 1328040.0
17 Song YilingCHN 1517092.5
18 Sa SolKOR 1756160.0
19 Ashima ShiraishiUSA 2275008.0
20 Aries Susanti RahayuINA 2357178.0
21 Ievgeniia KazbekovaUKR 2698920.0
22 Laura RogoraITA 3742200.0
23 Alannah YipCAN 4572288.0
24 Elnaz RekabiIRI 4665276.0
25 Aleksandra KaluckaPOL 6573420.0
26 Margo HayesUSA 8321670.0
27 Sandra LettnerAUT 8382528.0
28 Vita LukanSLO 9080400.0
29 Iuliia KaplinaRUS 10432224.0
30 Oceana MackenzieAUS 10795680.0

See also

Notes and References

  1. Web site: How climbers will be chosen for the 2020 olympics. Climbing.com. February 18, 2019. John Burgman.
  2. Web site: IFSC Releases Toulouse Combined Qualifier Startlist . UK Climbing . Natalie Berry. November 21, 2019.
  3. Web site: Slovenians supreme in Russia, Janja Garnbret and Jernej Kruder win Bouldering World Cup in Moscow .
  4. Web site: Janja Garnbret veni, vidi, vici in Vail!. PlanetMountain.com. en. 2019-06-12.
  5. Web site: New Women’s Speed World Record by Song Yi Ling .
  6. Web site: New Speed World Record by Gold Medalist YiLing Song .
  7. Web site: Gold for China and a New World Record. www.ifsc-climbing.org. 2019-10-28.
  8. Web site: Watching this speed climbing world record reminds us humans are incredible. Madu. Zito. 2019-10-21. SBNation.com. en. 2019-10-28.
  9. Web site: Aries takes gold, breaks women's speed climbing world record. The Jakarta Post. en. 2019-10-28.
  10. Web site: https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition#!filter[cat_id=69&filter[cup]=! 2019 World Cups ].
  11. Web site: RANKINGS: IFSC CLIMBING WORLDCUP 2019 .
  12. Web site: IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2019 Men OVERALL Ranking .
  13. Web site: IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2019 Women OVERALL Ranking .
  14. Web site: IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2019 National Team Ranking .
  15. Web site: IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2019: M E N LEAD. www.ifsc-climbing.org. live. https://web.archive.org/web/20190705201918/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&view=dr&layout=calendar&Itemid=102 . 2019-07-05 . 2019-10-28.
  16. Web site: IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2019: W O M E N LEAD. www.ifsc-climbing.org. live. https://web.archive.org/web/20190705201918/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&view=dr&layout=calendar&Itemid=102 . 2019-07-05 . 2019-10-28.
  17. Web site: IFSC LEAD WORLD CUP 2019: NATIONAL TEAM RANKING. www.ifsc-climbing.org. live. https://web.archive.org/web/20190705201918/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&view=dr&layout=calendar&Itemid=102 . 2019-07-05 . 2019-10-28.
  18. Web site: IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2019: M E N SPEED. www.ifsc-climbing.org. live. https://web.archive.org/web/20190705201918/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&view=dr&layout=calendar&Itemid=102 . 2019-07-05 . 2019-10-28.
  19. Web site: IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2019: W O M E N SPEED. www.ifsc-climbing.org. live. https://web.archive.org/web/20190705201918/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&view=dr&layout=calendar&Itemid=102 . 2019-07-05 . 2019-10-28.
  20. Web site: IFSC SPEED WORLD CUP 2019: NATIONAL TEAM RANKING. www.ifsc-climbing.org. live. https://web.archive.org/web/20190705201918/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&view=dr&layout=calendar&Itemid=102 . 2019-07-05 . 2019-10-28.
  21. Web site: IFSC Combined World Cup Ranking 2019 - ifsc climbing. www.ifsc-climbing.org. 2019-10-28.
  22. Web site: Confirmed qaulified athletes . www.ifsc-climbing.org . November 4, 2019 . 2019-11-29.