2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup explained

Organiser:IFSC
Edition:30th
Dates:13 April – 28 October 2018
Men B: Jernej Kruder
Women B: Miho Nonaka
Team B:
Men L: Jakob Schubert
Women L: Janja Garnbret
Team L: Austria
Men S: Bassa Mawem
Women S: Anouck Jaubert
Team S: Russian Federation
Men C: Jakob Schubert
Women C: Janja Garnbret
Previous:2017
Next:2019

The 2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 14 locations. There were 22 events: 7 bouldering, 7 lead, and 8 speed events. The season began on 13 April in Meiringen, Switzerland, and concluded on 28 October in Xiamen, China.

The top 3 in each competition received medals, and the overall winners were awarded trophies. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

The winners for bouldering were Jernej Kruder and Miho Nonaka, for lead Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret, for speed Bassa Mawem and Anouck Jaubert, and for combined Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret, men and women respectively.The National Team for bouldering was Japan, for lead Austria, and for speed Russian Federation.

Highlights of the season

In bouldering, at the World Cup in Munich, Janja Garnbret of Slovenia flashed all boulders in the final round to take the win.Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi, both of Japan, were the only athletes who never missed a podium in all 7 bouldering competitions in the season.

In lead climbing, Janja Garnbret was the only athlete who never missed a podium in all 7 lead competitions in the season.

In speed climbing, at the first Speed World Cup of the season in Moscow, Anouck Jaubert of France matched the world record of 7.32 seconds set by Iuliia Kaplina of Russia at the 2017 World Games in Wrocław.[1] Then at the end of the season, French athletes, Bassa Mawem and Anouck Jaubert clinched the overall titles of the season for men and women respectively, making it double speed titles for France.

Changes from the previous season

For the 2018 season the IFSC changed the scoring method for its tournaments. Previously in bouldering, topped boulders were the deciding factor, followed as tiebreakers in decreasing order of importance: attempts to tops, bonus holds (renamed to zones), and attempts to bonus holds. The first and second tiebreakers switched places which means that the results were determined by tops, zones, attempts to tops, and attempts to zones.[2] Also athletes now need to demonstrate firm control of the two starting hand holds. Previously touching all four marked start points in any manner was deemed sufficient to start an attempt.[3]

Overview

No.LocationDGGoldSilverBronze
1 Meiringen
13 – 14 April 2018		BM Jernej Kruder Tomoa Narasaki Alexey Rubtsov
W Miho Nonaka Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi
2 Moscow
21 – 22 April 2018		BM Tomoa Narasaki Jernej Kruder Gregor Vezonik
W Janja Garnbret Miho Nonaka Akiyo Noguchi
SM Vladislav Deulin Veddriq Leonardo
W Anouck Jaubert Elena Timofeeva
3 Chongqing
5 – 6 May 2018		BM Kokoro Fujii Sean McColl Alexey Rubtsov
W Akiyo Noguchi Miho Nonaka Staša Gejo
SM Danyil Boldyrev
W Puji Lestari
4 Tai'an
12 – 13 May 2018		BM Alex Khazanov Jernej Kruder Gregor Vezonik
W Akiyo Noguchi Miho Nonaka Fanny Gibert
SM
W
5 Hachioji
2 – 3 June 2018		BM Gabriele Moroni Tomoa Narasaki Rei Sugimoto
W Akiyo Noguchi Miho Nonaka Ekaterina Kipriianova
6 Vail
8 – 9 June 2018		BM Rei Sugimoto Sean Bailey Tomoa Narasaki
W Alex Puccio Miho Nonaka Akiyo Noguchi
7 Villars
6 – 7 July 2018		LM Jakob Schubert Romain Desgranges Tomoa Narasaki
W Janja Garnbret Jain Kim
SM
W
8 Chamonix
11 – 13 July 2018		LM Stefano Ghisolfi Jakob Schubert Alex Megos
W Jessica Pilz Janja Garnbret Jain Kim
SM Danyil Boldyrev
W Mariia Krasavina
9 Briançon
20 – 21 July 2018		LM Alex Megos Romain Desgranges Domen Škofic
W Janja Garnbret Jessica Pilz Anak Verhoeven
10 Arco
27 – 28 July 2018		LM Jakob Schubert Stefano Ghisolfi Domen Škofic
W Janja Garnbret Anak Verhoeven
SM Danyil Boldyrev
W Mariia Krasavina
11 Munich
17 – 18 August 2018		BM Gregor Vezonik Jernej Kruder Jakob Schubert
W Miho Nonaka Akiyo Noguchi
12 Kranj
29 – 30 September 2018		LM Stefano Ghisolfi Jakob Schubert Masahiro Higuchi
W Jain Kim Janja Garnbret Hannah Schubert
13 Wujiang
20 – 21 October 2018		LM Romain Desgranges Jakob Schubert Hyunbin Min
W Janja Garnbret
Jain Kim		–
SM Reza Alipour
W
14 Xiamen
27 – 28 October 2018		LM Domen Škofic Stefano Ghisolfi Hyunbin Min
W Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi
SM Reza Alipour
W Anouck Jaubert
OVERALLBM Jernej Kruder Tomoa Narasaki Rei Sugimoto
W Miho Nonaka Akiyo Noguchi Fanny Gibert
LM Jakob Schubert Stefano Ghisolfi Romain Desgranges
Domen Škofic
W Janja Garnbret Jessica Pilz Jain Kim
SM Bassa Mawem Danyil Boldyrev
W Anouck Jaubert
CM Jakob Schubert Tomoa Narasaki
W Janja Garnbret
NATIONAL TEAMSBA Japan Slovenia France
LA Austria Japan Slovenia
SA Russia Indonesia France

Bouldering

An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There were seven competitions in the season, but only the best six attempts were counted. The national ranking was the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses were not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2018:[4]

RankNamePointsMunichVailHachiojiTai'anChongqingMoscowMeiringen
1 Jernej Kruder442.002. 80.004. 55.008. (38.00)2. 80.006. 47.002. 80.001. 100.00
2 Tomoa Narasaki400.009. 35.003. 65.002. 80.008. 40.0011. (31.00)1. 100.002. 80.00
3 Rei Sugimoto334.008. 40.001. 100.003. 65.004. 55.0012. (28.00)10. 34.008. 40.00
4 Alexey Rubtsov296.0014. (23.00)9. 37.005. 51.0012. 27.003. 65.005. 51.003. 65.00
5 Gregor Vezonik280.001. 100.0014. 24.00-3. 65.0013. 26.003. 65.00-
6 Kokoro Fujii260.007. 43.0018. (16.00)16. 20.005. 51.001. 100.0017. 18.0012. 28.00
7 Chon Jong-won247.00-7. 43.004. 55.006. 47.00-4. 55.006. 47.00
8 Tomoaki Takata218.0017. 18.006. 47.0011. 31.0010. 34.0025. (5.00)9. 37.005. 51.00
9 Yuji Fujiwaki207.005. 51.008. 40.0013. 26.00 11. 31.0015. 22.0028. (3.00)9. 37.00
9 Jakob Schubert207.003. 65.00-- 12. 27.004. 55.0025. 5.004. 55.00

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2018:[5]

RankNamePointsMunichVailHachiojiTai'anChongqingMoscowMeiringen
1 Miho Nonaka500.002. 80.002. 80.002. 80.002. 80.002. 80.002. (80.00)1. 100.00
2 Akiyo Noguchi495.003. 65.003. 65.001. 100.001. 100.001. 100.003. 65.003. (65.00)
3 Fanny Gibert 320.004. 55.004. 55.007. 43.003. 65.008. (40.00)5. 51.005. 51.00
4 Janja Garnbret280.001. 100.00----1. 100.002. 80.00
5 Katja Kadic246.005. 51.0023. (7.00)11. 31.007. 43.006. 47.0010. 34.008. 40.00
6 Staša Gejo222.00--4. 55.004. 55.003. 65.0015. 22.0013. 25.00
7 Ekaterina Kipriianova210.006. 47.00-3. 65.0010. 34.004. 55.0021. 9.00-
8 Futaba Ito179.007. 43.00-6. 47.0013. 26.0016. 20.008. 40.0027. 3.00
9 Shauna Coxsey174.00-7. 43.009. 37.00--6. 47.006. 47.00
10 Alma Bestvater168.0012. 28.006. 47.005. 51.0023. 7.0012. 28.0023. 7.00-

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2018:[6]

Country names as used by the IFSC

RankNationPointsMunichVailHachiojiTai'anChongqingMoscowMeiringen
12269(337)387419363371362367
2 Slovenia1344345(108)109208139310233
3823163(91)10211119793157
4 Austria73517361(22)11015464173
5 Russian Federation59185(37)1441011217268
6 Germany534103143695811249(27)
75031528486579(3)52
8 Republic of Korea4180817589-9875
9 Great Britain366217410130(19)4793
10 Italy26922(1)1392474829

Lead

An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men

6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in parentheses) for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2018.[7]

RankNamePointsXiamenWujiangKranjArcoBriançonChamonixVillars
1 Jakob Schubert495.0016. (20.00)2. 80.002. 80.001. 100.004. 55.002. 80.001. 100.00
2 Stefano Ghisolfi466.002. 80.005. 51.001. 100.002. 80.005. (51.00)1. 100.004. 55.00
3 Romain Desgranges356.006. 47.001. 100.0020. 12.009. 37.002. 80.0027. (4.00)2. 80.00
3 Domen Škofic356.001. 100.0019. (14.00)12. 28.003. 65.003. 65.004. 55.007. 43.00
5 Min Hyun-bin251.003. 65.003. 65.00-8. 40.0017. 18.0018. 16.006. 47.00
6 Alexander Megos230.00---12. 28.001. 100.003. 65.009. 37.00
7 Taisei Homma217.005. 51.008. 40.0013. 26.00-9. 37.007. 43.0016. 20.00
8 Sascha Lehmann206.008. 40.0017. 18.0025. (6.00)6. 47.007. 43.008. 40.0017. 18.00
9 Yuki Hada192.007. 43.0020. (12.00)7. 43.0014. 24.0012. 28.0019. 14.008. 40.00
10 Francesco Vettorata168.0015. 22.006. 47.006. 47.0022. 9.0020. 12.0011. 31.00-

Women

6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2018.[8]

RankNamePointsXiamenWujiangKranjArcoBriançonChamonixVillars
1 Janja Garnbret550.002. 80.001. 90.002. 80.001. 100.001. 100.002. (80.00)1. 100.00
2 Jessica Pilz505.001. 100.003. 65.004. (55.00)2. 80.002. 80.001. 100.002. 80.00
3 Jain Kim354.0010. 34.001. 90.001. 100.00--3. 65.003. 65.00
4 Manon Hily238.0014. (24.00)8. 40.0011. 31.006. 47.0011. 31.0010. 34.004. 55.00
5 Mei Kotake228.005. 51.0013. 26.009. 37.0016. 20.00-5. 51.007. 43.00
6 Tjasa Kalan224.007. 43.006. 45.0012. 28.009. 37.0028. (3.00)9. 37.009. 34.00
7 Hannah Schubert219.0011. 31.009. 37.003. 65.0019. (14.00)13. 26.008. 40.0016. 20.00
8 Mina Markovič214.006. 47.0022. (9.00)8. 40.0010. 34.005. 51.0012. 28.0019. 14.00
8 Akiyo Noguchi214.003. 65.004. 55.00---7. 43.005. 51.00
10 Mia Krampl211.004. 55.006. 45.0010. 34.00-7. 43.0021. 10.0014. 24.00

National Teams

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in brackets).[9]

RankNationPointsXiamenWujiangKranjArcoBriançonChamonixVillars
1 Austria1528230269264250(218)232283
21468305246242160(135)235280
3 Slovenia1428282194(182)238266210238
495995160(81)18525184184
5 Italy82211813520211199157(55)
6 Republic of Korea65210717710741(27)91129
7 Belgium3828055(22)105654730
83771513(0)1088910547
9 Suisse37340(18)6778497168
10340--234510011161

Speed

An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men

7 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2018.[10]

RankNamedata-sort-type="number"PointsXiamenWujiangArcoChamonixVillarsTai'anChongqingMoscow
1 Bassa Mawem448.001. 100.009. 37.008. 40.003. 65.004. 55.001. 100.005. 51.00-
2 Danyil Boldyrev437.0014. 24.008. 40.001. 100.001. 100.003. 65.007. 43.003. 65.00-
3 Dmitrii Timofeev429.004. 55.007. 43.004. 55.002. 80.0011. 31.003. 65.001. 100.0015. (22.00)
4 Reza Alipour415.003. 65.003. 65.003. 65.009. 37.008. 40.00-7. 43.001. 100.00
5 Aleksandr Shilov358.0013. 26.004. 55.002. 80.005. 51.002. 80.0010. 34.0010. 32.00-
6 Aspar Jaelolo341.002. 80.001. 100.00---4. 55.002. 80.0013. 26.00
7 Aleksandr Shikov289.00-16. 20.009. 37.0014. 24.001. 100.009. 37.006. 47.0014. 24.00
8 Ludovico Fossali272.0015. 22.00 2. 80.0015. 22.006. 47.0017. (18.00)15. 22.0010. 32.006. 47.00
9 Li Jinxin254.007. 43.00 6. 47.00-10. 34.006. 47.00-4. 55.0012. 28.00
10 Vladislav Deulin237.005. 51.00 13. 26.005. 51.00--21. 9.0016. 20.002. 80.00

Women

7 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2018.[11]

RankNamedata-sort-type="number"PointsXiamenWujiangArcoChamonixVillarsTai'anChongqingMoscow
1 Anouck Jaubert550.003. 65.002. 80.003. 65.0011. (31.00)1. 100.001. 100.00 8. 40.001. 100.00
2 Aries Susanti Rahayu420.001. 100.001. 100.00---3. 65.00 1. 100.004. 55.00
3 Iuliia Kaplina414.002. 80.003. 65.001. 100.0013. 26.007. 43.0016. 20.00 16. (20.00)2. 80.00
4 Mariia Krasavina402.007. 43.004. 55.002. 80.003. 65.003. 65.007. 43.00 9. (37.00)5. 51.00
5 Anna Brozek299.008. 40.009. 37.005. 51.007. 43.005. 51.004. 55.00 15. 22.00-
6 Elena Timofeeva298.005. 51.0020. (12.00)8. 40.0016. 20.0017. 18.0014. 24.002. 80.003. 65.00
7 Anna Tsyganova292.0016. 20.006. 47.00-2. 80.00-6. 47.004. 55.007. 43.00
8 Elena Remizova266.004. 55.0018. 16.0020. (12.00)6. 47.008. 40.009. 37.006. 47.0014. 24.00
9 Sari Agustina239.009. 37.005. 51.00---2. 80.007. 43.0012. 28.00
10 Victoire Andrier235.0014. 24.0012. 28.0013. 26.0014. 24.002. 80.0015. 22.0011. 31.0020. (12.00)

National Teams

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in brackets).[12]

RankNationdata-sort-type="number"PointsXiamenWujiangArcoChamonixVillarsTai'anChongqingMoscow
1 Russian Federation2448318316406349359(280)369331
2 Indonesia1704328353---367351305
31568235176183218312289155(146)
4 People's Republic of China1120191164-18921011519259
5 Poland876106472002341378270(44)
6 Italy71053104131131129(35)41121
7 Ukraine68848931351061228995(25)
8 Islamic Republic of Iran4648174653740-43124
916906811837261(0)
10 Czech Republic1671816432217--51

Combined

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Combined World Cup 2018:[13]

Men

RankNamedata-sort-type="number" Points
1 Jakob Schubert48
2 Tomoa Narasaki54
3 Kokoro Fujii960
4 Yoshiyuki Ogata1440
5 Sean McColl4860
6 Nicolas Collin11520
6 Kai Harada11520
8 Jan Hojer29160
9 Jernej Kruder35904
10 Fedir Samoilov40320

Women

RankNamedata-sort-type="number" Points
1 Janja Garnbret36
2 Akiyo Noguchi360
3 Miho Nonaka450
4 Jessica Pilz1050
5 Staša Gejo12960
6 Anna Tsyganova15600
7 Futaba Ito18900
8 Jain Kim21600
8 Claire Buhrfeind32400
10 Fanny Gibert45360

Notes and References

  1. Web site: IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Moscow (RUS) 2018 . Ifsc-climbing.org. 18 December 2018.
  2. Web site: Starting now: the 2018 IFSC World Cup Season . BMC . 12 April 2018 . 18 April 2018 .
  3. Web site: IFSC Rules Modifications 2018 . PDF. Ifsc-climbing.org. 18 December 2018.
  4. Web site: IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2018 Men OVERALL Ranking . Ifsc-climbing.org. 18 December 2018.
  5. Web site: IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2018 Women OVERALL Ranking . Ifsc-climbing.org. 18 December 2018.
  6. Web site: IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2018 National Team Ranking . Ifsc-climbing.org. 18 December 2018.
  7. Web site: IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Men OVERALL Ranking . Ifsc-climbing.org. 18 December 2018.
  8. Web site: IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 Women OVERALL Ranking . Ifsc-climbing.org. 18 December 2018.
  9. Web site: IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup 2018 National Team Ranking . Ifsc-climbing.org. 18 December 2018.
  10. Web site: IFSC Speed Climbing World Cup 2018 Men OVERALL Ranking . Ifsc-climbing.org. 18 December 2018.
  11. Web site: IFSC Speed Climbing World Cup 2018 Women OVERALL Ranking . Ifsc-climbing.org. 18 December 2018.
  12. Web site: IFSC Speed Climbing World Cup 2018 National Team Ranking . Ifsc-climbing.org. 18 December 2018.
  13. Web site: IFSC Combined World Cup Ranking 2018 - ifsc climbing. www.ifsc-climbing.org. 2019-10-28.

This article is licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License. It uses material from the Wikipedia article "2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup".

Except where otherwise indicated, Everything.Explained.Today is © Copyright 2009-2024, A B Cryer, All Rights Reserved. Cookie policy.