2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup explained

2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Date:7 April – 12 November 2017
Location: Meiringen, Switzerland
Chongqing, China
Nanjing, China
Hachioji, Japan
Vail, United States
Navi Mumbai, India
Villars, Switzerland
Chamonix, France
Briançon, France
Munich, Germany
Arco, Italy
Edinburgh, United Kingdom
Wujiang, China
Xiamen, China
Kranj, Slovenia
Men:(B) Chon Jong-won
(L) Romain Desgranges
(S) Vladislav Deulin
(C) Tomoa Narasaki
Women:(B) Shauna Coxsey
(L) Janja Garnbret
(S) Anouck Jaubert
(C) Janja Garnbret
Prev:2016
Next:2018

The 2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 15 locations. Bouldering competitions were held in 7 locations, lead in 8 locations, and speed in 7 locations. The season began on 7 April in Meiringen, Switzerland and concluded on 12 November in Kranj, Slovenia.

The top 3 in each competition received medals, and the overall winners were awarded trophies. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

The winners for bouldering were Chon Jong-won and Shauna Coxsey, for lead Romain Desgranges and Janja Garnbret, and for speed Vladislav Deulin and Anouck Jaubert, men and women respectively.

Highlights of the season

In lead climbing, Janja Garnbret of Slovenia was the only athlete who never missed a podium in all 8 lead competitions of the season.

In speed climbing, at the first Speed World Cup of the season in Chongqing, Iuliia Kaplina of Russia set a new world record of 7.46 seconds, breaking her previous world record of 7.53 seconds she set at the 2015 Speed World Cup in Chamonix.[1] Then the next week, at the World Cup in Nanjing, Reza Alipour of Iran and Russia's Iuliia Kaplina set new world records on their way to the men's and women's speed titles of 5.48 and 7.38 seconds respectively.[2] The previous world record for the men was set at 5.60sec by Danyil Boldyrev of Ukraine at the IFSC World Championships in 2014, while for the women was 7.46sec by Iuliia Kaplina herself just a week before in Chongqing.

Changes from the previous season

For the 2017 season, the IFSC changed the timing method for the finals of World Cup tournaments. First, climbing time for lead finals was reduced from eight to six minutes. Second, climbing time for bouldering finals was reduced from four minutes plus to four minutes dead. This means climbers can no longer continue their attempt after the four minute mark, even if they're off the mats before the clock runs out, which was the previous rule.[3] [4]

Streaming controversy

Before the start of the 2017 season, the IFSC announced that they had signed a three-year contract with the streaming platform FloSports,[5] which would have made the streams of climbing World Cups available only to paying customers instead of being freely accessible. This led to an online petition asking the IFSC to change their deal with FloSports, which was signed by more than 12,000 people,[6] and an open letter by the Athletes' Commission. The Commission voiced their frustration over the way the IFSC had previously communicated with the community at large, and "asked the athletes to withdraw cooperation with the livestream media until changes are made".[6] On the next day the IFSC apologized for having made a mistake, and announced that the deal with FloSports had not actually been signed yet despite the earlier press release, and would not be concluded.[7]

Overview

No.LocationDGGoldSilverBronze
1 Meiringen
(7–8 April)		BM Kokoro Fujii Alexey Rubtsov Keita Watabe
W Shauna Coxsey Katharina Saurwein Miho Nonaka
2 Chongqing
(22–23 April)		BM Jongwon Chon Tomoa Narasaki Alexey Rubtsov
W Janja Garnbret Shauna Coxsey Akiyo Noguchi
SM Vladislav Deulin
W Alla Marenych
3 Nanjing
(29–30 April)		BM Keita Watabe Tomoa Narasaki Jernej Kruder
W Shauna Coxsey Janja Garnbret Miho Nonaka
SM
W Anouck Jaubert
4 Hachioji
(6–7 May)		BM Alexey Rubtsov Tomoa Narasaki Keita Watabe
W Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi Miho Nonaka
5 Vail
(9–10 June)		BM Jongwon Chon Meichi Narasaki Yoshiyuki Ogata
W Shauna Coxsey Akiyo Noguchi Miho Nonaka
6 Navi Mumbai
(24–25 June)		BM Jongwon Chon Rei Sugimoto Alexey Rubtsov
W Shauna Coxsey Miho Nonaka Akiyo Noguchi
7 Villars
(7-8 July)		LM Romain Desgranges Domen Škofic Fedir Samoilov
W Janja Garnbret Anak Verhoeven
SM
W
8 Chamonix
(12-13 July)		LM Marcello Bombardi Keiichiro Korenaga Yuki Hada
W Janja Garnbret Jain Kim Anak Verhoeven
9 Briançon
(28-29 July)		LM Romain Desgranges Sean McColl Stefano Ghisolfi
W Jain Kim
10 Munich
(18–19 August)		BM Jan Hojer Tomoa Narasaki Taisei Ishimatsu
W Akiyo Noguchi
11 Arco
(25-26 August)		LM Jakob Schubert Adam Ondra Max Rudigier
W Jain Kim Janja Garnbret
SM
W
12 Edinburgh
(23-24 September)		LM Stefano Ghisolfi Jakob Schubert
W Jessica Pilz Jain Kim
SM
W Iuliia Kaplina
13 Wujiang
(7-8 October)		LM Stefano Ghisolfi Tomoa Narasaki
W
SM
W
14 Xiamen
(14-15 October)		LM Keiichiro Korenaga YuFei Pan
W Anak Verhoeven Ashima Shiraishi Janja Garnbret
SM
W
15 Kranj
(11-12 November)		LM Jakob Schubert Alexander Megos Dmitrii Fakirianov
W Janja Garnbret Jain Kim Molly Thompson-Smith
OVERALLBM Jongwon Chon Tomoa Narasaki Alexey Rubtsov
W Shauna Coxsey Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi
LM Romain Desgranges Stefano Ghisolfi Keiichiro Korenaga
W Janja Garnbret Jain Kim Anak Verhoeven
SM Vladislav Deulin
W Anouck Jaubert
CM Tomoa Narasaki Jongwon Chon Kokoro Fujii
W Janja Garnbret Jain Kim Shauna Coxsey
NATIONAL TEAMSBA Great Britain Slovenia
LA Slovenia
SA Russian Federation Italy

Bouldering

An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men

6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017.[8]

RankNamePointsMunichNavi MumbaiVailHachiojiNanjingChongqingMeiringen
1 Chon Jong-won4534. 55.001. 100.001. 100.007. 43.004. 55.001. 100.0012. (28.00)
2 Tomoa Narasaki4042. 80.006. 47.009. 37.002. 80.002. 80.002. 80.0021. (9.00)
3 Alexey Rubtsov39910. 34.00 3. 65.004. 55.001. 100.0023. (7.00)3. 65.002. 80.00
4 Keita Watabe372-8. 40.006. 47.003. 65.001. 100.004. 55.003. 65.00
5 Kokoro Fujii3276. 47.004. 55.005. 51.009. 37.0011. (29.00)9. 37.001. 100.00
6 Rei Sugimoto278-2. 80.0010. 34.0011. 31.006. 47.0011. 31.004. 55.00
7 Jan Hojer2351. 100.0017. 18.0016. 20.00-7. 43.0012. 28.0013. 26.00
8 Yoshiyuki Ogata2325. 51.007. 43.003. 65.0017. 18.0027. (3.00)17. 18.009. 37.00
9 Jernej Kruder20129. 1.009. 37.008. 40.0023. 7.003. 65.00-5. 51.00
10 Jakob Schubert1869. 37.005. 51.00-5. 51.00-8. 40.0023. 7.00

Women

6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017.[9]

RankNamePointsMunichNavi MumbaiVailHachiojiNanjingChongqingMeiringen
1 Shauna Coxsey5602. 80.001. 100.001. 100.004. (55.00)1. 100.002. 80.001. 100.00
2 Janja Garnbret4701. 100.00-7. 43.001. 100.002. 80.001. 100.006. 47.00
3 Akiyo Noguchi3813. 65.003. 65.002. 80.002. 80.0013. 26.003. 65.0021. (9.00)
4 Miho Nonaka37710. (34.00)2. 80.003. 65.003. 65.003. 65.009. 37.003. 65.00
5 Petra Klingler2906. 47.004. 55.006. 47.006. 47.009. (37.00)7. 43.005. 51.00
6 Staša Gejo2344. 55.00-27. 3.008. 40.0010. 34.00 6. 47.004. 55.00
7 Katja Kadic22711. 31.005. 51.005. 51.0021. (9.00)7. 43.0011. 31.0016. 20.00
8 Michaela Tracy19015. (21.00)13. 26.0010. 34.0010. 34.0011. 31.0015. 22.007. 43.00
9 Fanny Gibert1878. 40.00--5. 51.0012. 28.0012. 28.008. 40.00
10 Aya Onoe165-6. 47.0011. 31.0012. 27.005. 51.0021. 9.00-

National Teams

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in brackets).[10]

Country names as used by the IFSC

RankNationPointsMunichNavi MumbaiVailHachiojiNanjingChongqingMeiringen
12118(295)374372364390300318
2 Great Britain929146169166129173(103)146
3 Slovenia927188152135(116)188131133
4 Germany736176126(63)92104104134
5715151--190112122140
6 Republic of Korea6946911814098128141(65)
7 Russian Federation60811214555103(48)89104
8 Austria548711156292(54)11692
9 Suisse36859567147(42)5085
1034077-1552737737

Lead

An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men

7 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2017. Romain Desgranges won.[11]

RankNamePointsKranjXiamenWujiangEdinburghArcoBriançonChamonixVillars
1 Romain Desgranges4779. 37.0022. (9.00)5. 51.001. 100.0010. 34.001. 100.004. 55.001. 100.00
2 Stefano Ghisolfi4135. 51.007. 43.001. 100.002. 80.0018. (16.00) 3. 65.007. 43.0011. 31.00
3 Keiichiro Korenaga37310. (32.00)1. 100.008. 40.0010. 34.005. 51.00 10. 34.002. 80.0010. 34.00
4 Domen Škofic3254. 55.0017. 18.004. 55.004. 55.0021. (10.00) 9. 37.0013. 25.002. 80.00
5 Marcello Bombardi2897. 43.0023. (8.00)17. 18.0012. 28.009. 37.006. 47.001. 100.0018. 16.00
6 Jakob Schubert2651. 100.00--3. 65.001. 100.00---
7 Thomas Joannes22112. 28.009. 37.0016. 20.005. 51.006. 47.0019. 14.0027. (2.00)14. 24.00
8 Kim Han-wool21314. 24.0010. 34.003. 65.0013. 26.0015. 22.0013. 26.0016. 16.0029. (2.00)
9 Fedir Samoilov19315. 22.005. 51.0025. 6.009. 37.0024. 7.00-26. 5.003. 65.00
10 Francesco Vettorata1826. 47.0014. 24.0014. 24.00-16. 19.0014. 24.009. 35.0022. 9.00

Women

7 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2017. Janja Garnbret won.[12]

RankNamePointsKranjXiamenWujiangEdinburghArcoBriançonChamonixVillars
1 Janja Garnbret6651. 100.003. 65.001. 100.001. 100.003. (65.00) 1. 100.001. 100.001. 100.00
2 Jain Kim5252. 80.008. (38.00)2. 80.003. 65.001. 100.00 3. 65.002. 80.004. 55.00
3 Anak Verhoeven4448. 40.001. 100.008. (40.00)6. 47.006. 47.00 2. 80.003. 65.003. 65.00
4 Jessica Pilz374-4. 55.007. 43.002. 80.007. 43.00 5. 51.005. 51.005. 51.00
5 Julia Chanourdie3624. 55.0011. (28.00)3. 65.00 5. 51.004. 55.00 4. 55.00 6. 47.0010. 34.00
6 Mina Markovič3045. 51.005. 51.0010. 34.00 15. 22.0021. (10.00) 8. 40.00 13. 26.002. 80.00
7 Molly Thompson-Smith2673. 65.006. 45.005. 51.00 9. 35.008. 40.00 11. 31.00 --
8 Ashima Shiraishi233-2. 80.006. 47.00 4. 55.005. 51.00 - --
9 Anne-Sophie Koller21011. 31.00-- 18. 16.002. 80.00 22. 9.00 9. 37.009. 37.00
10 Hannah Schubert20416. 20.008. 38.0013. 26.009. 35.0019. 14.00 19. (14.00) 12. 28.007. 43.00

National Teams

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in brackets). Slovenia won.[13]

RankNationPointsKranjXiamenWujiangEdinburghArcoBriançonChamonixVillars
1 Slovenia1473273134189201(86)197196283
21440132(124)195248180280173232
31418169334261(97)166172198118
4 Austria1070144127(91)24222412595113
5 Italy1022148(95)160154115139193113
6 Republic of Korea895113164205971249696(57)
7 Belgium64288106(41)7049110116103
8628-81521491241265640
9576136(35)8537665969124
10 Great Britain43211245511046951--

Speed

An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men

6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017. Vladislav Deulin won.[14]

RankNamedata-sort-type="number"PointsXiamenWujiangEdinburghArcoVillarsNanjingChongqing
1 Vladislav Deulin470.001. 100.008. 40.008. (40.00)1. 100.003. 65.003. 65.001. 100.00
2 Reza Alipour351.0012. 28.00--2. 80.001. 100.001. 100.007. 43.00
3 Ludovico Fossali346.004. 55.009. 37.001. 100.003. 65.004. 55.0010. 34.0016. (20.00)
4 Aleksandr Shikov338.0014. (24.00)1. 100.004. 55.0013. 26.0013. 26.002. 80.005. 51.00
5 Stanislav Kokorin331.0015. (22.00)12. 28.002. 80.009. 37.002. 80.0013. 26.002. 80.00
6 Leonardo Gontero284.0011. 31.0013. (26.00)3. 65.006. 47.007. 43.005. 51.006. 47.00
7 Zhong Qixin196.006. 47.006. 47.00-15. 22.00-7. 43.009. 37.00
8 Guillaume Moro181.007. 43.0018. 16.005. 51.0010. 34.009. 37.00--
9 Danyil Boldyrev167.00---4. 55.00-6. 47.003. 65.00
10 Marcin Dzieński164.0021. (10.00)11. 31.0015. 22.0014. 24.005. 51.0016. 20.0018. 16.00

Women

6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017. Anouck Jaubert won.[15]

RankNamedata-sort-type="number"PointsXiamenWujiangEdinburghArcoVillarsNanjingChongqing
1 Anouck Jaubert545.001. 100.002. 80.001. 100.001. 100.001. 100.003. 65.005. (51.00)
2 Iuliia Kaplina525.0023. (8.00)1. 100.003. 65.002. 80.002. 80.001. 100.001. 100.00
3 Mariia Krasavina395.007. 43.006. 47.002. 80.0011. (31.00)3. 65.002. 80.002. 80.00
4 Anna Tsyganova331.003. 65.008. 40.00-3. 65.005. 51.004. 55.004. 55.00
5 Alla Marenych280.006. 47.009. 37.007. 43.009. 37.0012. (28.00)5. 51.003. 65.00
6 Aurelia Sarisson276.005. 51.005. 51.008. 40.005. 51.0013. (26.00)7. 43.008. 40.00
7 Anna Brozek271.0011. (31.00)10. 34.004. 55.004. 55.007. 43.009. 37.006. 47.00
8 Edyta Ropek213.0017. 18.0021. (10.00)10. 34.007. 43.009. 37.006. 47.0010. 34.00
9 Klaudia Buczek179.0019. (14.00)12. 28.009. 37.008. 40.0017. 18.0010. 34.0015. 22.00
10 Victoire Andrier177.0012. 28.0011. 31.005. 51.0016. 20.006. 47.00--

National Teams

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in brackets). Russian Federation won.[16]

RankNationdata-sort-type="number"PointsXiamenWujiangEdinburghArcoVillarsNanjingChongqing
1 Russian Federation2358333406(320)344392417466
21220222178242205210163(146)
3 Italy99611493305225152107(81)
4 Poland919(82)112191177182138119
5 Indonesia793329324--140--
6 People's Republic of China670141155-22-160192
7 Ukraine596112714394(40)122154
8 Islamic Republic of Iran39235--11410010043
9 Czech Republic191--3750244040
10 Austria144-8813421--

Combined

Maximum number of counting results per discipline: Lead: 7, Boulder: 6, Speed: 6. Not counting points are in brackets.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Combined World Cup 2017:[17]

RankNamedata-sort-type="number" Points
1 Tomoa Narasaki571.00
2 Chon Jong-won564.00
3 Kokoro Fujii489.00
4 Romain Desgranges477.00
5 Vladislav Deulin470.00
6 Jakob Schubert451.00
7 Jan Hojer432.00
8 Alexey Rubtsov427.00
9 Stefano Ghisolfi413.00
10 Keiichiro Korenaga373.00

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Combined World Cup 2017:[18]

RankNamedata-sort-type="number" Points
1 Janja Garnbret1135.00
2 Jain Kim626.00
3 Shauna Coxsey607.00
4 Anouck Jaubert545.00
5 Iuliia Kaplina525.00
6 Akiyo Noguchi518.00
7 Anak Verhoeven444.00
8 Mariia Krasavina395.00
8 Miho Nonaka395.00
10 Jessica Pilz387.00

Notes and References

  1. Web site: IFSC Climbing Worldcup (B,S) - Chongqing (CHN) 2017 .
  2. Web site: Records tumble on final day of IFSC World Cup in Nanjing.
  3. Web site: New IFSC 4 minute rule: from hero to zero . 3 April 2017 . 24 April 2018 . Siked! .
  4. Web site: IFSC Rules Modifications 2017 .
  5. Web site: IFSC and FloSports Sign Online Streaming Deal . 5 April 2017 . 24 April 2018 . .
  6. Web site: The climbers speak: Open letter from the Athletes’ Commission . 11 April 2017 . 24 April 2018 . OnBouldering.com .
  7. Web site: Free streaming! The IFSC backtracks and cancels the FloClimbing deal . 12 April 2017 . 24 April 2018 . OnBouldering.com .
  8. Web site: IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2017 Men OVERALL Ranking .
  9. Web site: IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2017 Women OVERALL Ranking .
  10. Web site: IFSC Bouldering World Cup 2017 National Team Ranking .
  11. Web site: IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup 2017 Men OVERALL Ranking .
  12. Web site: IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup 2017 Women OVERALL Ranking .
  13. Web site: IFSC Lead Climbing World Cup 2017 National Team Ranking .
  14. Web site: IFSC Speed Climbing World Cup 2017 Men OVERALL Ranking .
  15. Web site: IFSC Speed Climbing World Cup 2017 Women OVERALL Ranking .
  16. Web site: IFSC Speed Climbing World Cup 2017 National Team Ranking .
  17. Web site: IFSC CLIMBING WORLDCUP 2017: MEN COMBINED. www.ifsc-climbing.org. live. https://web.archive.org/web/20190705201918/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&view=dr&layout=calendar&Itemid=102 . 2019-07-05 . 2019-10-28.
  18. Web site: IFSC CLIMBING WORLDCUP 2017: WOMEN COMBINED. www.ifsc-climbing.org. live. https://web.archive.org/web/20190705201918/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php?option=com_ifsc&view=dr&layout=calendar&Itemid=102 . 2019-07-05 . 2019-10-28.

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