2003 UIAA Climbing World Championships explained

2003 UIAA Climbing World Championships
Date:9 – 13 July 2003
Competitors:241
Nations:34
Location: Chamonix, France
Prev:2001
Next:2005

The 2003 UIAA Climbing World Championships, the 7th edition, were held in Chamonix, France from 9 to 13 July 2003. It was organized by the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA). The championships consisted of lead, speed, and bouldering events.[1] [2]

Medalists

Men's Lead
Men's Bouldering
Men's Speed
Women's Lead
Women's Bouldering
Women's Speed

Lead

Men

Tomáš Mrázek clinched gold medal after climbing 2 meters higher than the rest of the field. Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza won silver medal by edging out David Caude who took bronze. Alexandre Chabot placed 5th.

RankNameNation1/4 Final1/2 FinalFinalResult[3] [4]
Tomáš MrázekTop22.50-23.55-9500
Patxi Usobiaga LakunzaTop20.64-21.29+7600
David CaudeTop24.24+21.296175
4Christian BindhammerTop20.6415.40-5225
5Alexandre ChabotTop25.00-14.48-4845
6Sylvain MilletTop23.76-12.31-4465
7Ramón Julián PuigblanquéTop22.87-10.814085
8Evgeny OvchinnikovTop20.6410.813800

Women

Muriel Sarkany took the win by climbing 2 meter higher than her closest competition. Six climbers struggled on the same hold: touching, holding, or moving off it. In the end, Emilie Pouget claimed silver medal, ahead of her teammate Sandrine Levet who claimed bronze.

RankNameNation1/4 Final1/2 FinalFinalResult[5]
Muriel SarkanyTopTop24.60-8400
Emilie PougetTop18.15-22.27+6720
Sandrine LevetTopTop22.275460
4Jenny LavardaTop18.1522.27-4620
5Alexandra EyerTop18.15-22.27-4284
6Caroline CiavaldiniTop16.9422.27-3948
7Angela EiterTop16.94-22.27-3612
8Barbara BacherTop17.42+20.123360
9Emily HarringtonTop16.94-17.72-3108
10Olga ShalaginaTop16.94-7.26-2856

Bouldering

Bouldering scores were decided by number of tops, number of attempts to tops, number of zones, and number of attempts to zones in decreasing order of importance.

Men

Christian Core sent four boulder problems in the final round and won gold medal after edging out Jérôme Meyer by one less attempt. Tomasz Oleksy placed 3rd.

RankNameNationQualificationFinalResult[6] [7]
TopZoneRankTopZone
Christian Core11691147577900
Jérôme Meyer22614648676320
Tomasz Oleksy3367433585135
4Mauro Calibani49510334574345
5Kilian Fischhuber25481034454029
6Serik Kazbekov4868235463713
7Salavat Rakhmetov46681366113397
8Akito Matsushima3458537483160
9Stephane Julien24410922482923
10Andrew Earl2234723492686
11Alexander Meikl114912284142449
12Georgos Progulakis24611800282212

Women

Sandrine Levet topped 5 boulder problems in the final round, securing a gold medal. Nataliya Perlova sent 3 problems and placed second, while Fanny Rogeaux sent 2 problems in two attempts claiming third place.

RankNameNationQualificationFinalResult[8]
TopZoneRankTopZone
Sandrine Levet666615146137600
Nataliya Perlova58681236446080
Fanny Rogeaux6766322334940
4Olga Bibik56661023564180
5Juliette Danion576611245163876
6Vera Kotasova-Kostruhova6967411333572
7Venera Chereshneva6666111343268
8Olga Shalagina6967412473040
9Myriam Motteau6968712352812
10Yulia Abramchuk6967412242584
11Stella Marchisio5566913272356
12Corinne Theroux610698164112128

Speed

Men

Maksym Styenkovvy took the win. Tomasz Oleksy placed second and Alexander Peshekhonov placed third.

RankNameNationQual.1/2-Finalsmall FinalFinalResult[9]
Maksym Styenkovyy28.8125.9721.5521.315500
Tomasz Oleksy32.1525.9624.3125.714400
Alexander Peshekhonov32.7426.9622.113575
4Oleksandr Salimov35.2028.7427.433025
5Alexei Gadeev31.0529.662805
6Dmytro Konovalov34.5326.722585
7Sergei Sinitcyn28.2931.742365
8Iakov Soubbotine26.6427.012200
9Yevgen Kryvosheytsev29.0127.192035
10Csaba Komondi32.5330.031870
11Alexandre Chaoulsky28.4630.871705
12Ivan Shyshkovskyy40.2534.181540
13Salah Boulbahaiem48.9542.321430
14Mathieu Dutray34.80elim.1320
14Nicolas Januel33.84elim.1320
14Andrzej Mecherzynski-Wiktor33.45elim.1320
17C. M. Praveen49.981008
18Kyrylo Shevchenkoelim.896

Women

Olena Ryepko took the win. Tatiana Ruyga placed second and Yurina Valentina third.

RankNameNationQual.small FinalFinalResult[10]
Olena Ryepko43.5737.1535.763300
Tatiana Ruyga44.3837.8637.682640
Valentina Yurina43.7242.252145
4Olga Zakharova43.0938.861815
5Mayya Piratinskaya45.381683
6Olga Bezhko53.681551
7Edyta Ropek48.961419
8Olena Ostapenko51.141320
9Svetlana Sutkina53.831776
10Agung Ethi Hendrawati57.451632
11Sabine Knabl59.221488
12Nataliya Perlova60.541344
13M. N. Vathsala86.021248
14Bangalore Subbarao Archanaelim.1152
14Anna Stenkovayaelim.1152

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Results. 2021-08-30. www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  2. Web site: digitalROCK presents: UIAA Worldchampionship - Chamonix (FRA) 2003. 2021-08-31. www.digitalrock.de.
  3. Web site: Result: M E N lead. live. 2021-08-31. www.digitalrock.de. https://web.archive.org/web/20120122115945/http://digitalrock.de:80/egroupware/ranking/sitemgr/digitalrock/eliste.html? . 2012-01-22 .
  4. Web site: Sarkany and Mrazek World Champions. live. 2021-08-31. PlanetMountain.com. en. https://web.archive.org/web/20170810091102/http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/competitions/sarkany-and-mrazek-world-champions.html . 2017-08-10 .
  5. Web site: Result: W O M E N lead. live. 2021-08-31. www.digitalrock.de. https://web.archive.org/web/20120122115945/http://digitalrock.de:80/egroupware/ranking/sitemgr/digitalrock/eliste.html? . 2012-01-22 .
  6. Web site: Result: M E N bouldering. live. 2021-08-31. www.digitalrock.de. https://web.archive.org/web/20120122115945/http://digitalrock.de:80/egroupware/ranking/sitemgr/digitalrock/eliste.html? . 2012-01-22 .
  7. Web site: Christian Core and Sandrine Levet are Bouldering World Champions!. live. 2021-08-31. PlanetMountain.com. en. https://web.archive.org/web/20170811223142/http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/competitions/christian-core-and-sandrine-levet-are-bouldering-world-champions.html . 2017-08-11 .
  8. Web site: Result: W O M E N bouldering. live. 2021-08-31. www.digitalrock.de. https://web.archive.org/web/20120122115945/http://digitalrock.de:80/egroupware/ranking/sitemgr/digitalrock/eliste.html? . 2012-01-22 .
  9. Web site: Result: M E N speed. live. 2021-08-31. www.digitalrock.de. https://web.archive.org/web/20120122115945/http://digitalrock.de:80/egroupware/ranking/sitemgr/digitalrock/eliste.html? . 2012-01-22 .
  10. Web site: Result: W O M E N speed. live. 2021-08-31. www.digitalrock.de. https://web.archive.org/web/20120122115945/http://digitalrock.de:80/egroupware/ranking/sitemgr/digitalrock/eliste.html? . 2012-01-22 .

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